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Let's talk about "pull". - Page 8

post #106 of 197
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin Stall View Post
Pull equals spalla camicia.

Yes, I'm looking for a fight

Much as I like Neapolitan-baiting, it's my understanding that the shirt-shoulder is achieved with extra fullness in the sleevehead. It's not pulling at all, but puckering/fluting/drape.
post #107 of 197
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post
I miss the drape wars.

At least somebody understands me.
post #108 of 197
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wes Bourne View Post
I don't think we've seen a DB from you yet. Will you post it on your blog?
No pull, no stiff, no boxy (no drape)
post #109 of 197
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post
No pull, no stiff, no boxy (no drape)


Superseriousbusiness.
post #110 of 197
Quote:
Originally Posted by MetroStyles View Post
Too much pull around the chest?


Ooops.


- B
post #111 of 197
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post
I miss the drape wars.

Check your left ear. I am fairly certain that you were caught and then tagged.


- B
post #112 of 197
Quote:
Originally Posted by amplifiedheat View Post
Much as I like Neapolitan-baiting, it's my understanding that the shirt-shoulder is achieved with extra fullness in the sleevehead. It's not pulling at all, but puckering/fluting/drape.
Yes, I know, but thank you just the same. A tailor friend in Holland once told me: There's nothing wrong with Italian sleeveheads, it's just crappy tailoring. And since pull is a sign of a bad fit, they are equal in their not being in accordance with the laws of the cosmos. What's next, gaping lapels? If you get enough momentum behind an opinion, you can make everything into a fashion.
post #113 of 197
The reason why I don't like a waterfall sleeve on a business suit is the same why I don't like a drape cut on it: It gives the appearance of (what's the term again, ah yes) "relaxed fit"!
And that clearly belongs into the realms of leisure wear.

Imagine yourself in a board meeting. The numbers of your department aren't that great.

Do you want to sit there in one of those soft sloppy wide cut shoulder and chest coats with a waterfall sleeve whispering:

"Whatever, dude!"

Hell, no!

You want to sit there in one of those clean as a whistle coats with straight shoulders, proper sleeve and firm chest that's shouting:

"Bring it on, motherf*ckers! You got nothing on me! Because I am the best"!



post #114 of 197
In case that wasn't enough:

Pull:




Pull and (whatever you call those) sleeves:

post #115 of 197
Guess I'm not the only one looking for a fight
post #116 of 197
Quote:
Originally Posted by tailorgod View Post
In case that wasn't enough:


Pull and (whatever you call those) sleeves:


That's so.... Oh! I'm so touched! Beautiful! Brings tears to my eyes!
post #117 of 197
Quote:
Originally Posted by tailorgod View Post
In case that wasn't enough:

Pull:




Pull and (whatever you call those) sleeves:


those sleeves look retarded. They're not spalla.
post #118 of 197
I'm really enjoying the way this thread is heading.
post #119 of 197
Quote:
Originally Posted by GQgeek View Post
those sleeves look retarded. They're not spalla.

Shall we call them "manica cazzata"?
post #120 of 197
Cazzata, what's that? Some sort of pie?
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