I'm having a little trouble determining the difference between some of the fabrics on Jantzen. Â Can anyone sum up the descriptions of the following? French Oxford Oxford Pinpoint Oxford Plain Cotton Cotton Twill End & End ?
In the past all cotton were hand weaved. Â It wasn't till the 18th century when the English first started weaving cotton with newly invented machines, so all these weaving you have mentioned are new inventions in the past 100 years or so. Â I am not sure if Jantzen is faithful and accurate in its description (haven't ordered from them), but here is a break down on the different cotton weaving methods: Poplin
- basically a plain weave with a cross rib, usually woven in 2-fold (two yarns twisted into one, also called 2-ply) along the fineness of super 80s (quite fine) --- or 80/2 in technical representation. Oxford
- a little more texture than poplin, but usually softer. Â It could come in plain or basket weave with hardly noticeable narrow stripes, 80/2 or some in 100/2. Â While poplin is definitely a choice for dress shirts, oxford could also be used for casual shirts. Â Pinpoint (sorry can't find a photo online) - basically the same weaving as oxford, hence sometimes refered as pinpoint oxford. Â However, generally, thinner yarns are used, and most I've seen come in 100/2. Â I don't know the difference of a French oxford. End-on-end
- this is woven with 2 different threads of different colours. Â This could sometimes result in a 'muted' tone when used on a bright colour base. Â Comes in variety of thread count (actually, seldom use thread-count to classify this), for example, if one of the two threads is thicker, the fabric will come out with a texture; if both are 100s, fabric comes out smooth. Twill - is what it literally means, that the fabric was woven on a bias, thus the diagonal 'stripes'. Â When woven finely, it will come out smoothly and could bring out the colour really well. Â Some cotton flannels are weaved in this way. Obviously there are others like herringbone or zephyr, which is really soft and hard to fine. Â There is also cotton flannel where one or both sides are woven (plain or twill) with a cashmere-like finish, and only rarely do shirtmakers use them for shirts (I have one from Stefano Ricci). Â On a side note, poplin was first woven in Avignon when the Pope was still living there, and I think the original word for poplin was in French, papelino or something (papel = pope), which later became poplin. Â Other members please add to what I have missed. Â Hope it helps. Naturlaut