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Jantzentailor shirts - Page 3

post #31 of 59
Quote:
By this test - Borrellis are fused? Or, at least, the ones I've seen are?
To be exact, they are fused on one side (the face-up side).   The Neapolitan way of making cuffs and collar: a piece of thin linen is pressed onto the inside of the cuffs, then folded over and sewn closed.  That way, the cuffs can be pressed easily after you wash; and as cotton is less likely to expand or contract (as Italian cotton are pre-washed) no 'bubbling' would ever occur.  Moreover, if the cotton were to shrink (I'd surmise no more than 1/16") the linen lining will follow.   Also, the glueing agent used in shirt is different from those used in cheaper suits.  It is insoluble in water and it does not melt.  You can soak your Borrelli or Turnbull in water for 3 days and you will not find a hairpin of bubbling. ---> I have tried.   However, on a side note, I suspect this glueing agent would react somewhat to the salt in sweat, hence the inside cuffs or inner collar is never fused in these shirts.  I failed chemistry, so that could just be the unused part of my brain ranting.
post #32 of 59
I've been to Jantzen since I last posted. The store is small and in a not terribly prestigious building near the Central MTR (underground) station on Hong Kong Island. I ordered two shirts - both with large, modestly high cut away collars and cocktail cuffs. They seem happy enough to forgo collar and cuff fusing. I shall let you know how they turn out.
post #33 of 59
bryce, thanks for the response to my question. i've ordered my first jantzen and decided to go with the white/white satin stripe material with the thick gray buttons. i'll get the white buttons next time. you guys have me worried now as i gave them my exact measurements and asked for a form fitting shirt. i hope i'll be able to wear it. in general, i've found that it's better to give on-line shirtmakers your true measurements, then explain how you want it to fit, rather than trying to trick them into making your desired cut by giving false measurements (this has worked for me once though). depending on how this shirt comes out, i may ask for the standard fit next time. i'll try to post some pics when i get the shirt.
post #34 of 59
I'm having a little trouble determining the difference between some of the fabrics on Jantzen. Can anyone sum up the descriptions of the following? French Oxford Oxford Pinpoint Oxford Plain Cotton Cotton Twill End & End ?
post #35 of 59
Quote:
I'm having a little trouble determining the difference between some of the fabrics on Jantzen.  Can anyone sum up the descriptions of the following? French Oxford Oxford Pinpoint Oxford Plain Cotton Cotton Twill End & End ?
In the past all cotton were hand weaved.  It wasn't till the 18th century when the English first started weaving cotton with newly invented machines, so all these weaving you have mentioned are new inventions in the past 100 years or so.  I am not sure if Jantzen is faithful and accurate in its description (haven't ordered from them), but here is a break down on the different cotton weaving methods: Poplin - basically a plain weave with a cross rib, usually woven in 2-fold (two yarns twisted into one, also called 2-ply) along the fineness of super 80s (quite fine) --- or 80/2 in technical representation. Oxford - a little more texture than poplin, but usually softer.  It could come in plain or basket weave with hardly noticeable narrow stripes, 80/2 or some in 100/2.  While poplin is definitely a choice for dress shirts, oxford could also be used for casual shirts.   Pinpoint (sorry can't find a photo online) - basically the same weaving as oxford, hence sometimes refered as pinpoint oxford.  However, generally, thinner yarns are used, and most I've seen come in 100/2.  I don't know the difference of a French oxford. End-on-end - this is woven with 2 different threads of different colours.  This could sometimes result in a 'muted' tone when used on a bright colour base.  Comes in variety of thread count (actually, seldom use thread-count to classify this), for example, if one of the two threads is thicker, the fabric will come out with a texture; if both are 100s, fabric comes out smooth. Twill - is what it literally means, that the fabric was woven on a bias, thus the diagonal 'stripes'.  When woven finely, it will come out smoothly and could bring out the colour really well.  Some cotton flannels are weaved in this way. Obviously there are others like herringbone or zephyr, which is really soft and hard to fine.  There is also cotton flannel where one or both sides are woven (plain or twill) with a cashmere-like finish, and only rarely do shirtmakers use them for shirts (I have one from Stefano Ricci).   On a side note, poplin was first woven in Avignon when the Pope was still living there, and I think the original word for poplin was in French, papelino or something (papel = pope), which later became poplin.   Other members please add to what I have missed.  Hope it helps. Naturlaut
post #36 of 59
matt, i think what janzen calls "plain" cotton is actually poplin, or what we know as broadcloth. everything naturlaut said is correct. let me stress though that oxford materials are rougher and, in my opinion, are not appropriate for dress shirts. if you like one of the oxford patterns, consider it for a sport shirt. (most button-downs i've seen are made with oxford material.) btw, i just recieved my first jantzen today and i love it. it fits perfectly, and the fabric is very smooth and soft. the collar is the best looking i've seen on any shirt. there are some tiny  imperfections (scratches) on the buttons, but i suppose that adds to the natural look. they might look like polyester otherwise. i'd like to mention also that it fits exactly the way i think a dress shirt should fit. it's not tight at all, and the cuffs are just small enough to keep the sleeve in place, but not so small as to effectively shorten the sleeve. i'll be ordering again.
post #37 of 59
matador: I am curious: Which fabric did you choose for your shirt?
post #38 of 59
stu, i chose a dobby fabric; white with white satin stripes. it looks very elegant and feels pretty smooth. i'm very happy with it. i chose the dark gray buttons because i tend not to like yellowish buttons on a white shirt. i'm going to try the m.o.p. on my next order. as long as i'm posting i'd like to add that i chose the #a3 collar and it looks much better in person than on the website. i really like it unbuttoned too.   can anyone else comment on their collar choice? do they tend to look better on you than they do on the site?
post #39 of 59
I picked up my Jantzen shirts late last week. They are spot on, and I'd recommend them to anyone. I saw some of the suits that they were making for other clients, and think that I'll get one or two made when I'm next in HK. As regards collar choices - I got them to copy the collar of one of my own shirts. They didn't seem to have any problem getting the cocktail cuffs right, either.
post #40 of 59
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post #41 of 59
So, to make my report, I got my 1st Jantzen shirt today. It's got a british spread collar, french cuffs and is made from Checkers 286, a light blue Italian 110s with a subtle Prince of Wales check. The collar is spot on - it's similiar to my T&A collars and suits me equally well. The material is really soft and this shirt is among the softest in my closet. The MOP buttons are similiar to the buttons on my Zegna NC shirt but have some dark spots in the back. Never the less they look great and go smoothly trough the buttonholes inspite of their size.The monogram looks really cool and straddles the inside of the split yoke. My only complaints are that three of the eight buttonholes on the french cuffs are too small to put silk knots in so I'll have to use proper cufflinks. Also, the sleeves (supposedly 34') are about 1' too short for me and I'll order them longer next time. It's a bit of a mistery because when compared against the 34.5 sleeves on my T&A, there is no real difference. I guess the answer lies in the different shapes of the shirts. I did ask for samples of a few of the fabrics along with the shirt, but to no avail. I'll wash it a few times, fiddle a bit with the measurements and then order the next batch. If somebody would like pictures, holler and I just might get around to it. B
post #42 of 59
Funny about the sleeves. I had the same experience. I have my left arm about 3/4 of an inch longer than the right, and asked them to make the shirt accordingly. They did make the left longer than the right, but both sleeves are a bit short. I will ask for 1/4 inch longer on each one next time around.
post #43 of 59
Hi Bjorn I would be interested in seeing a pic of your shirt.
post #44 of 59
At the drop of a hat... happy to oblige. This is a light blue shirt seen from afar: and But as often, a closer look reveals the pattern: The monogram turned out better than I hoped for (notice the pattern matching as well): The buttons look great but they do have some flaws and are probably not first grade: (Who cares ?) I'll scale the pictures further down if asked for. I just washed it and ironed, and really could have gotten away with no ironing. Great fabric.
post #45 of 59
You guys have convinced me to try them out. I really wish they had at least some 180s swatches to chose from though.
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