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Jantzentailor shirts - Page 2

post #16 of 59
I ordered checkers #235; it's one of the few patterns with a picture of a finished shirt, so it gave me a good idea what to expect when I ordered it. I didn't get self-colored button holes; I ordered purple because I wanted them to stand out. I suspect self-color button-holes would have been done in such a color/style as to remain as inconspicuous as possible, probably white or lilac to match the general tone of the shirt instead of looking bold like mine did. My guess is that the shirt pictured on their site uses self-color, if you wanted to compare. The "why are they so cheap" debate is one that was pretty controversial if you remember the older Jantzen threads, and there was lots of speculation as to quality control, labor standards in Hong Kong, etc. I won't drag that all up, but my guess is that they buy leftover materials from other companies at a highly discounted cost and sell it directly to the consumer without a lot of overhead (salesmen, facilities, etc). Of course, this is just my own speculation. Oh, and bryce, if you have a camera, post some pics when the shirt gets in. It's fun to see what people design
post #17 of 59
Here's a Likewise, the two button collar I ordered was pretty tricky to button up,
Then it wasn't constructed properly.
post #18 of 59
Quote (aybojs @ 25 Aug. 2003, 2:25) Here's a Likewise, the two button collar I ordered was pretty tricky to button up,
Then it wasn't constructed properly.
ZING. Jantzen was so zinged just then... Did you pause to consider the possibility that aybojs may be afflicted with the finger condition known as "stubbiness"?  His dreams of playing the saxophone are ruined.
post #19 of 59
Just FYI, this was my first two-button collar shirt, and the best brand-name shirt in my closet is a Brioni, so my frame of reference isn't all that great. In addition, as Nick hinted, I am somewhat of a klutz. That said, $40 and change for a shirt that so far seems just as good as my Zegna/Brioni shirts and gives me free rein on fabric choice, cut, and other stylistic elements makes more sense to me than waiting for sales in the hope of getting a Borrelli or Kiton for $100-150 and not getting to be picky about fabric or fit. Hopefully I'll be able to experiment more when I get a permanent source of income, but at least for now I think I have my shirt options taken care of. As a sidenote, now that they told me they'd be willing to do a shirt with front pleats, I'm now planning my next order to be a customized tuxedo shirt, so I'm currently trying to come up with interesting ideas for that one.
post #20 of 59
quick question to all of you: are your m.o.p. buttons white or yellowish? i like the white/clear looking ones. if you have these which did you ask for on the order form?
post #21 of 59
As I recently started ordering custom made shirts from Noble House Tailors and Individualized Shirts to the tune of $80-$120, I am getting very excited about ordering my first Jantzen Shirt. I have a question which maybe silly but are you guys using any shirts you currently own to take measurements i.e. the shirt length? You guys are getting me very excited about getting a chance to be really creative with my shirt wear. Thanks in advance
post #22 of 59
I felt too self concious asking my girlfriend to measure me for my first Jantzen shirt, so I used several of my shirts as models. (Heck, if the discount store shirt fits well in the shoulder, use it as a guide.) I used a shirt whose sleeve fit best for my sleve measurement, the shirt that fit the best in the chest for the chest measurement, etc. Also, I second aybojs' advice on shirt length. I used my Hilditch & Key shirt as a model for the length because its tails were the longest of the shirts in my closet. I measured from the bottom seam of the shoulder placket. JT asked if that measurement were correct, suggesting that it was too long for someone of my stature. I double checked the measurement, but deferred to JT. My first shirt is acceptable in length, but on my second I will ask for another cm or two on the tails. Bic
post #23 of 59
Nick, The shirts look good. Are the collars and cuffs fused? I find that this is the area that Hong Kong made shirts really fall down - they'll fuse by default, and the interlining feels flimsy.
post #24 of 59
Are the collars and cuffs fused?
I have absolutely no idea, I'm completely ignorant in this area   Tell me what to look for, and I'll let you know. You're given the option as to whether you want your interlining 'regular', 'hard', 'soft', etc. Does this automatically mean fused? None of my collars and cuffs have bubbled... yet... so if they are fused, they did a pretty good job. PS Someone tell me what 'shank-wrapping' is.. I'm going to have horrible nightmares about it until I find out...
post #25 of 59
Collar fusing isn't necessarily a sign of cheap manufacture - I know of people who specifically ask for this when ordering bespoke shirts. I just have an aversion to it. The easiest way to tell if fusing has been used is to rub the cuff or collar between your thumb and finger. If it's fused, then the external shirt material will be firmly adherent to the interlining. Re. shank wrapping. If buttons are sewn on so that there is some distance of thread between the shirt material and button, then surplus thread is often wrapped radially around itself in this space to create a "shank" (shanks are most obvious on suits and overcoats).
post #26 of 59
In that case, yes, they are fused - the underside of the collar and cuffs moves, the visible surface is stuck fast. By this test - Borrellis are fused? Or, at least, the ones I've seen are?
Re. shank wrapping
Ah, now I can sleep soundly again...
post #27 of 59
By this test - Borrellis are fused? Or, at least, the ones I've seen are?
Every Borrelli shirt that I've ever seen has had a fused collar. The same goes for virtually every other Italian shirt that I've ever seen, including ones made by Kiton, Fray, and Lorenzini.
post #28 of 59
My observation has been the same. And I like fused shirt collars. I HATE ironing collars that aren't fused - especially on cheaper shirts. It's near impossible to get them to look right. I've never had problems with bubbling either.
post #29 of 59
Whether you like fused collars or not obviously comes down to personal preference. I dislike fused collars, and mercifully I don't do my own ironing. Anyway, I shall be in Hong Kong for a few days next week and will give Jantzen a try. I'm sure they'll refrain from fusing the collars and cuffs if I ask them. I shall let you all know how they turn out.
post #30 of 59
Well my first Jantzen shirt arrived yesterday. I would agree with the comments of the other posters regarding the quality of the shirt, it is truly amazing given the price - single needle stitching, thick mop buttons, near-perfect pattern matching, etc. As someone else mentioned, the fabric seems a bit thin, but that may have to do with the shirt I ordered, which was regular (not two-ply) 100's cotton. Unfortunately, the shirt is too small for me to actually wear - I can barely even button the bottom button. They are not kidding around with the "form-fitting" fit option. This is actually my fault, I based my measurements on my favorite Paul Smith shirt and took a couple of inches off the waist to try to make it even more tapered. In retrospect, this was probably a mistake. For my next order, I will take my actual body measurements and maybe add an inch or two. I might order three or four shirts so I can play around with the sizing and options. I don't believe anyone has answered matadorpoet's question regarding the color of the buttons. They are kind of an ivory-ish color, closer to white than yellow. There are some imperfections on the back sides of the butons, but that is hardly something I am going to complain about (particularly on a $40 shirt). Also, someone asked about the styles on the "Latest Styles" page (i.e. three-button cuffs), which are not listed on the order form. I asked about this via e-mail and they said they could do anything on that page, just ask for it in the comments section when filling out the order form.
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