Wanted: BMW repair cost horror stories... - Page 3

2003 BMW 330i ZHP

Any comments on the Z4 M's? I'm about to buy an '07 coupe.

What about the reliability of the first-generation 6-series or M6 (E24)?

They are good cars, but as with anything high performance, maintenance is necessary and can be expensive, but since you own a Jag, it will probably be a cakewalk for you. Make sure the gearbox and diff had the 1200 break-in oil-change (BMW requires this), and the car's had good maintenance: oil change and filter every 7500 miles, and diff and tranny fluids every 30K. The oil is a special BMW oil, and probably the diff, too, since it is an LSD. The S54 engine needs its valves adjusted every Inspection period, too, about 30K miles.

The rear shock mounts can go early in these cars --- you hear a clunk, but there's not a major degradation in performance.

It's also the last really good-handling car BMW made --- enjoy it!

--Andre

Everything you need is right here: http://www.bigcoupe.com/checklist.php

Click on the 'buyer's guide'

I looked at one before I bought my e30. Known problems are
- cabin heater cores
- water pump
- cracked engine blocks

The upshot is that the bodies on these cars are dead sexy, and timeless. Swap out the engine, and you can have some REAL fun

I can't speak for newer BMWs but older ones have interence engines and so it is essential to change the timing belt at the correct intervals. If the timing belt breaks, all hell will break loose within your engine and it certainly won't be cheap to fix it.

Don't take a BMW to BMW for repairs. Find a good reputable shop who specializes in german cars

You'll find horror stories for almost all brands. If you want it and you know that you can afford it given a decent repair cost estimate, go for it.

This sounds like a fun purchase. Looking forward to pics.

Great car, as long as you're not worried about normal repair bills (figure $1-2K a year if you drive regularly)

False. You're double counting depreciation.

Purchase - trade/resale = depreciation.

^ your equation is not related to his equation, which was TCO (and yes you were half right)... but your avatar scares me, while making me believe it's you speaking to me (albeit in incorrect equations regarding car TCO)

No horror story here -- I had a 1998 M3 for 6 years (bought used at 37K miles and sold with @75K miles) and had just one mechanical problem -- a bad idle control valve, which cost next to nothing to replace. I had all regular maintenance -- brakes, hoses, belts, etc. -- done according to the BMW recommended maintenance schedule and always had service done at the dealer. It was an awesome car and I reluctantly traded it a few years ago for an Audi A6 once kid #2 came along and I needed a bigger car.

I know a lot of people with bimmers and most say expect to pay $1k a year in parts after 75k mi. The 3 series tends to have problems with subframe damage, losing reverse gear on auto tranny, suspensions, etc. The worst is the VANOS problem, which is ultra expensive. Also, the new 3 series has a LOT of turbo problems.

Off topic, I had a 2000 honda accord and I had to replace the alternator at 60k mi ($500) and a new tranny at 140k mi ($2800). Totalled at 167k mi when rear ended.

I have a 2005 G35 sedan with 68k milles on it and no mecahnical issues ever. It came with a 60k/4 year bumper-to-bumper warranty that I've never used. I get about 20mpg city and 25 hwy with hard driving. I do use a lot of tires due to my driving habits and track days.

It's basically a nicer Nissan, so expect the same quality. I had a Maxima before this that I drove for 120k miles with rare mechanical issues.