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Wanted: BMW repair cost horror stories... - Page 10

post #136 of 157
^ You are right about that....these creatures all think they're professional F1 race car drivers though with their supercharge M3's and the like.
post #137 of 157
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post
and do this too, immense fun. Don't worry about your car, a 2006 BMW at a CCA event would be nowhere the shittiest car there. I guarantee you that. Expect to see as many shitboxes as there are nice cars. Bonus, a lower powered normal car at a driving school is far better than a hi-po car if you are just learning anyway - the newbs who come in M3's and M5's, even the non-M+high powered Bimmers like a 335i - those dudes never get anywhere close to feeling limits of their cars because the performance envelope is too high for newbies. Always more fun wringing out lower powered cars on small tracks with a margin of safety, than getting in over your head.....

Yea that is basically a repeat of what my brother told me, and he's built 2 Mustangs from the ground up and has been a part of a few autocross events. I know I would enjoy it greatly but really my only reservation is that I would be doing this in my daily driver (and just paid off). It needs an identical twin haha
post #138 of 157
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post
Do it man, you've got hardly any money in it considering your ownership, and it's got more left in it than 20-25K miles, I bet. I'd want them to go 300K if they could, I always felt that way about that era of BMWs. Keep it forever if parking isn't a cost problem, I regret selling my E30's for beans. Could've just left them with my dad and we could both still enjoy driving them now once in awhile. My dad always really liked the E30's too, trying to get him to get into an E46 M3 and see if he likes it (he probably won't though)
Me, too. I had people calling from all over interested in it. That should have prompted me to reconsider.
post #139 of 157
Just picked up my e92 from the shop because it had the infamous "clicking rear differential" sound. They fixed the problem, but right when I started the car it made a valve clicking sound and disappeared when I revved high. Both of these seem to be common problems.

Valve clicking- auto and manual
rear diff clicking- manual only
post #140 of 157
...and I just totaled my formally pristine 1984 325. Oh well, hello Mini.
post #141 of 157
I may be selling my '08 335xi with manual transmission, if anybody's interested. Fully loaded and well taken care of.

Can't add anything to the topic of discussion, as it's my first BMW and still under warranty. And whoever said a Nissan is more reliable - no shit! But I still prefer to drive a BMW.
post #142 of 157
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1969 View Post
...and I just totaled my formally pristine 1984 325. Oh well, hello Mini.

post #143 of 157
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post

+1
post #144 of 157
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1969 View Post
...and I just totaled my formally pristine 1984 325. Oh well, hello Mini.

Yikes, my neighbor growing up had a pristine 85 325i convertible. Had it till about 4 years ago, then it went backwards into an on ramp guard rail.

Beautiful car it was.
post #145 of 157
auto repair
Quote:
Originally Posted by mm84321 View Post
I have to go get new front tires for my 3 series. I guess it was my fault for never having them rotated; I just assumed the BMW service center would do that for me when it was necessary during my periodic oil changes and service work (my first car, so I now know better). Over $500 for two of those RFT, plus installation. Also need to replace the front bumper in order to reinstall a displaced fog lamp from a run-in with a raccoon this past winter. They quoted me at $1,200 for that. My warranty expired last month too, so hopefully they won't find something else that needs fixing. I have less than 50k miles on it; still runs like new.

I live in phoenix now and the stealerships out here charge so much just for the badge its crazy
post #146 of 157
This is the most annoying thing about my 2003 3-series (happens with all models)...

The electronic windows fail routinely. I go to a mechanic that specializes in euro-cars and he replaces 2-3 of these a week. The way he explained it, a component breaks and causes the glass to slip off the track.

It costs about $200 for the part and anywhere from $50-100 for the labor depending on which window it is. I've replaced the front drivers side once, the front passenger side twice and a rear passenger side once.
post #147 of 157
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrettChaotix View Post
This is the most annoying thing about my 2003 3-series (happens with all models)... The electronic windows fail routinely. I go to a mechanic that specializes in euro-cars and he replaces 2-3 of these a week. The way he explained it, a component breaks and causes the glass to slip off the track. It costs about $200 for the part and anywhere from $50-100 for the labor depending on which window it is. I've replaced the front drivers side once, the front passenger side twice and a rear passenger side once.
Maybe you should take it to a dealership because it shouldn't keep breaking.... I took mine in (under warranty still) because the window wasn't riding smoothly and was leaving bad streaks in the tint. It looked like it was about to tear the tint in places. They replaced the entire window motor/unit thing and hasn't been a problem since.
post #148 of 157
2001 bmw 323ci - 95k miles - transmission gave up. would go in reverse no other gear. (auto) dealer stated it was a common problem - apparently GM made the transmissions, had to sell the car, cause the cost of doing a transmission swap wasn't worth the time/effort.
post #149 of 157
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrettChaotix View Post
This is the most annoying thing about my 2003 3-series (happens with all models)...

The electronic windows fail routinely. I go to a mechanic that specializes in euro-cars and he replaces 2-3 of these a week. The way he explained it, a component breaks and causes the glass to slip off the track.

It costs about $200 for the part and anywhere from $50-100 for the labor depending on which window it is. I've replaced the front drivers side once, the front passenger side twice and a rear passenger side once.

I buy the window regulator for less than 100 bucks (oem) and install it myself, very easy. So far 3 have been replaced on my car. Thus you are paying too much for the part.
post #150 of 157
The 3-series window regulator breakage is actually a little tab breaking off a plastic part. If you feel ghetto, it can be replaced with a zip tie with no difference in performance.

--Andre
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