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My first bespoke suit arrived (WW Chan) comments, questions, and pics - Page 2

post #16 of 22
I agree with the views on the button stance. I'd go much lower, myself.
post #17 of 22
Overall, I think it looks excellent. Beyond that, at the risk of adding to the "crap" I'd concur in the consensus of opinions - including, I think, your own. To wit: the button stance seems a bit high, and some minor shaping in the back might improve things (which are already pretty darn good). The sleeve length thing obviously is a matter of personal preference - I pretty much like how you have it. They do seem a bit uneven, either because your arms or different lengths or because of your stance. If you want to be nit-picky it should be easy to tweak once you figure out exactly what's going on there.
Congrats on a very nice suit - I hope you get a lot of enjoyment from it.
post #18 of 22
Originally Posted by chapunso
I think it fits you perfectly, including the selleves showing cuff. the jacket is fine too. good job. Too much crap posted in this chat room and "too many experts"
Pray tell, what could possibly constitute more useless "crap" than pointless posts that don't respond to his request for constructive criticism?
post #19 of 22
Thread Starter 
Thanks all, what a wealth of comments. First of all, I am not offended by any of the comments; second, I think some level of disagreement is good. That is what personal preference is all about, and for those who haven't formed strong opinions, hearing the debate can help to solidify one's own thoughts.

First, the pictures. Yes, the first one is a funny angle that accentuates the short look of the jacket in front. I also don't think my right shoulder is 3'' lower than the left. My wife looked at the picture and asked "Why are you standing like that?". I just didn't have a chance to re-take.

The sleeves. Definite consensus that they are at least 1/2'' too short. I cheated a little bit here and am wearing a bespoke shirt for which I feel the sleeves are also a bit short (though to be fair to Chan, this is the one I was wearing for the fittings). The Thom Browne comment is funny; when I first tried the jacket on with one of my other shirts, that was exactly my reaction. For my preference, they are too short.

Did I gain weight? Well, this visit to HK was on a tail end of a 30 day vacation of eating and drinking my way through France, Italy, and Budapest, so it is certainly possible. However, as others have noted, I don't think this is the balance issue. Hanging the jacket, it is clear that the back is longer than the front, as opposed to my others which are the opposite. It is interesting to hear that this is in some ways Chan's house style. That may be ok, except for the fact that I came in knowing what I wanted and having a good reference. That they deviated significantly from this, is a bit disturbing (not much though). For my preference, I would like a bit more even balance.

Button stance. I think I prefer 1/2 to 1'' lower. I guess this will also provide more open quarters. Is this too risky to request without going through a full fitting process again?

Trouser lenth. This is how I tend to prefer them. I will leave as is for now, but maybe adjust my preferences over time if it looks too sloppy.

Bespoke vs. OTR? Tough call. I will do at least one more round with Chan, but I don't think I will stop by OTR on sale. To me, they just fill different needs. I really love the way this particular Barbera suit fits and feels, but Saks botched the alterations, which detracts a bit. There is also more variability in the Barbera suits depending on who made them. I like Isaia a lot.

post #20 of 22
Good sport.

I love the fabric, BTW
post #21 of 22
Looking closely at the 3 pics there are several points you can discuss with Patrick. Most important is the jacket balance. This is not a matter of cutting the front shorter but of creating the proper front length for your posture. This is what fitting a custom jacket is all about and this will change the jacket significantly. The jacket hem should be parallel to the ground, or even a little longer in the front would be preferred.
The pitch of the sleeves is too far forward, causing the wrinkling on the back of the sleeves.
The left lapel is rolled about 3" higher than the right. Could be a collar problem.
I have never seen the bottom button placement higher than being on line with the pocket. This may be the photo angle but I don't think so. The button placement together with the short (from the top of the shoulder) fronts makes the jacket fronts flare out as well as up, (pregnant look) as seen in the profile shot.
Sleeve length adjustment is a no brainer and easy to correct, you already know what you want to do there.
The trouser line seems like they are bowing out at the hips on the side seam. You would need to comment if this is so.
I don't regard my comments as nit picky, but objective as to how the jacket should be cut to make you look your best, which is why someone would use a custom tailor.
As you said, your other jackets don't fit like this.
post #22 of 22
Despos has provided the best analysis.

Perhaps the hem of the jacket can be adjusted to make it parallel to the ground. The lowering of the button placement should be independent of the openness of the skirt front. Both can be adjusted in the tailoring. As Despos wrote, the real purpose of the custom fitted / made suit is to have it fit to your body as you are, not as the OTR factory determines as "normal." Could some adjustment of the side seams in final fitting have caused the front panels to have that rising hem line? I do like the more open skirt as a general style feature though.

The only other comment I'd have (which must be personal to just me as none of the experts have mentioned it) is that the picture of the back seems to show the shoulders just a bit wide. Personally, I like them to fit a bit "tighter" so that the sleeve heads do some of the flaring out. Not sure I've described it correctly either.
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