The Return of the Double Breasted Suit

Originally Posted by Arrogant Bastard

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It's saying that Dries van Noten sells a $1,200 suit that comes with a pocket handkerchief, not that the pocket handkerchief is $1,200. The article is a bit confusingly worded, but that's what it is intending to say.

That said, suits with built-in pocket squares =

The suit comes with the pocket square? Never heard of that. Is it a built-in pocket square so that you do not have to bother about folding it? Which is what I always find so difficult with pocket squares. On the other hand, it sounds a bit cheap: like a shirt that comes with a built-in tie so that you do not have to worry about the knot...

Now, regarding the DB suits: I think that I have a great build for DB, but I am reluctant to get a suit where I will always have to carry the jacket buttoned except when sitting down. I guess that I just got too used to walking around with the jacket unbuttoned. Yes, I know that this may be considered an offence, but I just got used to it.

By the way, what about DB odd jackets? Last autumn I saw a lovely kind of flannel chalkstripe dark blue or navy and red (the stripes were red, the background navy) cloth that I thought would look great when turned into a DB jacket to wear with gray flannel trousers. Or is it a bit over the top?

Originally Posted by epa

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The suit comes with the pocket square? Never heard of that. Is it a built-in pocket square so that you do not have to bother about folding it? Which is what I always find so difficult with pocket squares. On the other hand, it sounds a bit cheap: like a shirt that comes with a built-in tie so that you do not have to worry about the knot...

It's becoming somewhat trendy these days for designers to offer suits with built-in pocket squares. I first started seeing them on my friends' cheap Zara suits a year or two back. Now I see them on designer suits every now and then. Would not surprise me at all to see one on a DvN suit, given that DvN is known as a fashion-forward brand and not an SF-approved, classic maker.

I hope this trend will die a quick death, because much like a clip-on tie, there are few things tackier than a built-in PS. Especially on a $1200 suit.

Originally Posted by Arrogant Bastard

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It's saying that Dries van Noten sells a $1,200 suit that comes with a pocket handkerchief, not that the pocket handkerchief is $1,200. The article is a bit confusingly worded, but that's what it is intending to say.

That said, suits with built-in pocket squares =

I just realised who crazy things are: I noticed that I just saw someone referring to a $1,200 pocket square and I didn't think that it must be an error until I read the explanation some posts further down...

suit with a built-in pocket square?? how hard is it to get a cheapo white pocket square and just stuff it in?

Originally Posted by elegantgentleman

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Double breasted suits look amazing, but they have to fit well and are less forgiving in that regard compared to single-breasteds.

They definitely look better on taller and more athletic-built men (as with most clothes!).

+1 . Almost every Double Breasted SportCoat, Suit, or Blazer I have has had to be tailored. They take a little more work, but IMHO they look better and have a tad more flair than a traditional single breasted.

I think this thread - http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=67010 - shows that DB suits never went out of style on SF and beyond.

DBs might never have completely gone away, but they are decidedly rare in most places here in the U.S. I was in the Manhattan Paul Stewart store a couple of months ago and asked to try on a DB. The salesman said they had a few, but not many. I asked what percentage of his sales were DB. He said no more than 5%.

Originally Posted by J. Cogburn

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DBs might never have completely gone away, but they are decidedly rare in most places here in the U.S. I was in the Manhattan Paul Stewart store a couple of months ago and asked to try on a DB. The salesman said they had a few, but not many. I asked what percentage of his sales were DB. He said no more than 5%.

Most people don't have the style to pull it off. You also have be willing to keep your jacket buttoned all the time, and most prefer having the option to unbutton.

Originally Posted by sho'nuff

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suit with a built-in pocket square?? how hard is it to get a cheapo white pocket square and just stuff it in?

You're preaching to the choir here, but there must be some sort of demand for this ****. Otherwise the trend wouldn't have lasted as long as it has. I've seen built-in squares on suits for several years now. It's a small blip on the radar, but it's still out there. My guess is that pocket squares have come into fashion in recent years, thanks to Mad Men's cultural influence and whatnot, but that most guys don't know how to use them and don't care to learn, and/or find them a hassle.

Not claiming I like this stuff; just explaining why it's out there.

Interesting article that I missed. Thanks for sharing.

I'm tempted to get a DB sometime soon but having only a charcoal SB now, I figure the next step should be a navy SB.

I think most people are put off by the miss-guided belief that double breasted jackets are box like.

Simply not the case..
Here is one of mine

http://www.crayfishphoto.co.uk/claire/suit/suit6.html

Originally Posted by Sleats

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I think most people are put off by the miss-guided belief that double breasted jackets are box like. Simply not the case.. Here is one of mine http://www.crayfishphoto.co.uk/claire/suit/suit6.html
The only problem I have with the ole DB is that they always need to be fastened, they don't look good unfastened, it kills the look dead. You can wear an SB open and it can still look smart, not so a DB in my opinion. However, a well cut DB, in a well chosen fabric is an amazingly good look, but,fastened of course...

Originally Posted by George

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The only problem I have with the ole DB is that they always need to be fastened, they don't look good unfastened, it kills the look dead. You can wear an SB open and it can still look smart, not so a DB in my opinion.

However, a well cut DB, in a well chosen fabric is an amazingly good look, but,fastened of course...

I have 15 sb suits and no db at all...

I want a charcoal chalk stripes db Anderson& Sheppard like the one of their website...

Am I going to regret it or must i go for another sb?

Originally Posted by lasbar

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I have 15 sb suits and no db at all...

I want a charcoal chalk stripes db Anderson& Sheppard like the one of their website...

Am I going to regret it or must i go for another sb?

Get it.

Originally Posted by lasbar

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I have 15 sb suits and no db at all...

I want a charcoal chalk stripes db Anderson& Sheppard like the one of their website...

Am I going to regret it or must i go for another sb?

With 15 sb, why would you want another sb?