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velvet collar for overcoat?

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 
I am having a grey wool chesterfield overcoat made (slight waist, slanted pockets, button at the top, and notched lapels as advised here) and have always loved the look of a black velvet collar. I am having this done at Kachins in Mumbai with whom I have been very pleased with suits and shirts.

Could anyone advise me on the concerns I might have about the black velvet collar?

-how well does it take rain and inclimate weather? (it is dyed, so...)

-Is there a specific type of velvet I should ask for? (the tailor actually insisted that felt is used here, but I didn't think so and came back to this forum to check).

-Does the black velvet limit me in any way as to being too formal?

Finally (and I have read everything on this forum about overcoats), any further advise, thoughts, or questions are welcome.

post #2 of 12
I would ask for duvetyn velvet. It's the thickest.
post #3 of 12
There is velvet made of 100% silk. also, I would suggest that you save enough coat material to switch out the collar in case you're not happy with velvet.
post #4 of 12
Most of the velvet labelled 100% silk is made with a pure silk backing but rayon (or other synthetic) pile. There are a few upholstery velvets where both components are silk (eg Northcroft Fabrics in the UK), but their cloth is a little too heavy for clothing.

post #5 of 12
A velvet-collared Chesterfield is not too formal for daily wear. Note the Chesterfield on the left.
post #6 of 12
I have, for example, a grey cashmere overcoat (made in Switzland) with a cotton velvet collar that is one of the most attractive overcoat ever.
post #7 of 12
Rereading the OP I think that an upholstery silk velvet would be exactly what you are after. Northcroft will send you a sample of this 100% silk on request. The appearance is quite different from that of cotton or synthetic velvets.
post #8 of 12
This picture is awesome.

Originally Posted by LabelKing
A velvet-collared Chesterfield is not too formal for daily wear.

Note the Chesterfield on the left.
post #9 of 12
Originally Posted by drake
This picture is awesome.
I love the elegant insolence of the right one.

Here is another very interesting picture of Mussolini with Ethiopian chieftans:

post #10 of 12
Hm, haven't we done this velvet thing before?
I think Aus_MD is on the right track. Most upholstery grade velvet probably wouldn't be too heavy for a collar and would, in fact, have just the wear-resistant properties you are looking for (commercial grade upholstery is often rated in terms of 'double rubs', basically the number of times the fabric can be rubbed back and forth before it begins to abrade--just guessing, but a good upholstery velvet would likely have a double-rub rating of 30,000-50,000, which is good news for a collar). Good silk velvet--and I'm not sure much of any other kind is being made these days--has a great sheen and a wonderfully plush luxurious feel. I really like mohair velvet, traditionally the hardest wearing of this sort of fabric. I've seen an amazing mohair velvet from the textile merchant Clarence House that would be just perfect for a collar--a short dense pile for the ages.
Just a suggestion, but if I were making a grey coat I probably wouldn't use a black collar. To my mind a more subtle contrast is best (since you are already getting contrast by way of the material). I have a bespoke camel chesterfield with a velvet collar of nearly the same color (or perhaps a shade lighter) which I like very much. The lower contrast knocks it down a bit on the formality scale (which may or may not be something you want).
If you think you might be interested in grey, I believe I have a small silvery grey velvet mohair remnant that I would be happy to give you. I could send you a small piece if you'd like to check the color and texture. It's an upholstery grade velvet from Brunschwig & Fils with an interesting longish pile that I have left over from a sofa.
post #11 of 12
I am looking in The "Harrisons of Edinburgh" book, "Covert Coatings and Velvet Collars" The velvet samples are 100% cotton and seem very sturdy.
The times I have made Chesterfields I used cotton velvet with good results.

I also use light weight velvet for the inside pocketing. Feels great when it is cold out and you aren't wearing gloves.
post #12 of 12
I love my traditional black velvet collar. It's dramatic, sure, but that's its appeal.
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