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Cars We Drive! - Page 1688

post #25306 of 26276
Quote:
Originally Posted by Find Finn View Post

Are they selling for that or they being listed.

The premium condition ones. That will prolly never make it overseas. Are commanding serious money. While you might be able to get a GTR 32-33 for 8k to 15k. It will be daily driver spec. With some mods. Some kilometers, and some wear/tear. You can almost cut the price in half if you are a dealer. Buying at auction. Still way too much though.
post #25307 of 26276
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbarwick View Post

Tripled?  What was the price on those things as some JDM Skylines GTS-T's over here are like $8-$15K depending on condition, mods, and such.  GTRs still seem to be in the $20K+ range though.

As for waiting in line for a Supercharging station....Tesla HQ hasn't installed more and people just wait?

It's hardly a wait. A couple of minutes at worst. But there can be a line around lunch time and people respect it. Also, Tesla is doing a huge promo event there so there are a few company cars charging as well.

She just drove past the small line. She also did one of worst parking jobs I've seen. What pissed me and the couple of people behind me off was her attitude.

Also,I don't think they can install more for now. Real estate + they're net neutral solar and each supercharger stall literally dumps about a neighborhoods worth of power into the cars. It's not a joke and remotely like a chademo or any other charger that the Leaf or a Volt or an i3 use. It's also a super elegant cable with just the positive, ground, and serial data connectors.

They're super expensive and really there's no need for more. They have Fremont and Mountain View near Google and several more on the way up to the North Bay. This was an anomaly.

My worry is that used Teslas are drawing in the douches now. It used to be everyone with a Tesla was a nice person with a decent job (or a Woodside or Atherton housewife), now not so much the case because many are sub 50k.

The two people behind me were both in Model X P90Ds, this bitch was in a Model S 60. I know it sounds condescending, but I don't care. Be respectful in all walks of life and I'll respect you back.
post #25308 of 26276

Looks like you can get some 85's for less than $50K.  You need to up your hate threshold! :rotflmao: Tesla owners need to start debadging their cars. 

post #25309 of 26276
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbarwick View Post

Looks like you can get some 85's for less than $50K.  You need to up your hate threshold! rotflmao.gif  Tesla owners need to start debadging their cars. 

I think de-badging is a complete douche move. People say it makes the car look cleaner. If so, why don't you take the BMW or Porsche or Tesla logo off as well - invariably the marquee is left on. Anyone that knows a shit about the brand will know what the car is anyway.

Usually, de-badged cars are the lowest end model. I doubt HRoi de-badges his GT4.
post #25310 of 26276
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrift Vader View Post


The premium condition ones. That will prolly never make it overseas. Are commanding serious money. While you might be able to get a GTR 32-33 for 8k to 15k. It will be daily driver spec. With some mods. Some kilometers, and some wear/tear. You can almost cut the price in half if you are a dealer. Buying at auction. Still way too much though.

Just curious, are the premium condition ones completely stock or modded.  Wondering how modding does or doesn't affect value in JDM cars.  With European collector cars the closer they are to how they left the factory, generally the more sought after and valuable they are.   

post #25311 of 26276
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrift Vader View Post

Had no idea i could read French. happy.gif

Agree with you @bruhmuman. This thread is firing on all cylinders. If somebody followed the thread. And produced a show based on our chat scroll with vids and a host? Would be like Top Gear x TMZ.

RTC. A used camshaft makes a nice decorative lamp. Itb's and a cam set with Toda head gasket for the win.

 

Also $$$$

 

Used camshaft is a cheap drop in with a bit of a performance boost. I'm trying to see if I can find a megasquirt in my price range so I can get the square top manifold and make a CAI and do everything at once, but it's unlikely that it's going to happen.

Not going to lie. That boosted red NA is seriously tempting me...

post #25312 of 26276
Generally, mods lower resale value. The best of the best have no mods, and low use. Some cars retain stock look with mods. And go for a good price. And a tuner car that has seen some action will be the bargain buy.

It's to do with collector market vs intended use market. I know of a guy who keeps a Hakousuka in his office. And a R34 S-tune kept at a workplace. These cars see only enough use to keep them fresh. But every morning? I see a milf driving a nismo white r33 gtr to work. Clean, but no concours car.
Across the board. Prices are rising. Not falling.

Rtc, who is telling you this nonsense, where a used intake cam only is worth opening the engine? 2 words- cam lobes.
Intake + exhaust, with adjustable gears. And a reputable ecu piggyback or standalone. With your exhaust and a better intake setup will net you hp. Dig for the real info. Because the Miata boys are failing you. (Hint:follow the path of 4age builders, better yet. Buy the itb's off a late corolla "blacktop" 4age. And have an adapter made.)
post #25313 of 26276
Quote:
Originally Posted by ramuman View Post


I think de-badging is a complete douche move. People say it makes the car look cleaner. If so, why don't you take the BMW or Porsche or Tesla logo off as well - invariably the marquee is left on. Anyone that knows a shit about the brand will know what the car is anyway.

Usually, de-badged cars are the lowest end model. I doubt HRoi de-badges his GT4.

Disagree slightly, but it does depend on the car.  We had never debadged a car previously.  Much like you, I used to also think the badge delete option/debadging was so people could hide they they bought the entry level car.

 

However, with the 981/991 generation of cars IMHO there was just too much f*cking writing on the back deck of the car (and sorry that is my opinion regardless of which Porsche).  A little bit of writing is fine, but I don't need big metal letters saying:

 

"P O R S C H E"

  "Cayman S

 

It just seemed too much for my taste.  So we chose the badge delete option, which unfortunately still leaves the metal letters saying Porsche on the back (I wish those were gone too) as they make detailing the car a pain  I'm big into keeping my car as it left the factory so that's why I didn't have a detail shop that did the paint protection film take off the Porsche lettering.  This car is too new, but sometimes I've entered cars in Concours events and then originality matters.  

Anyway, if going with the badge delete option makes me a douche, well then I'm probably in good company with much of this crowd ;)

post #25314 of 26276
^ It doesn't get much worse than this:

post #25315 of 26276
Quote:
Originally Posted by bawlin View Post

^ It doesn't get much worse than this:
 

:fistbump:  Exactly!!!  A good friend of mine has a 991 Turbo S...its a great car, but its the same look with too much writing all over the back of the car.

 

If I had a C class or 3 Series BMW...I wouldn't bother to debadge it since they don't have that long drawn out chrome sentence on the a$$ of those cars.  

post #25316 of 26276

Do you have to pay for Porsche to badge delete or do you pay for the long list of badges?

post #25317 of 26276
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrift Vader View Post

Generally, mods lower resale value. The best of the best have no mods, and low use. Some cars retain stock look with mods. And go for a good price. And a tuner car that has seen some action will be the bargain buy.

It's to do with collector market vs intended use market. I know of a guy who keeps a Hakousuka in his office. And a R34 S-tune kept at a workplace. These cars see only enough use to keep them fresh. But every morning? I see a milf driving a nismo white r33 gtr to work. Clean, but no concours car.
Across the board. Prices are rising. Not falling.

Rtc, who is telling you this nonsense, where a used intake cam only is worth opening the engine? 2 words- cam lobes.
Intake + exhaust, with adjustable gears. And a reputable ecu piggyback or standalone. With your exhaust and a better intake setup will net you hp. Dig for the real info. Because the Miata boys are failing you. (Hint:follow the path of 4age builders, better yet. Buy the itb's off a late corolla "blacktop" 4age. And have an adapter made.)

 

Yeah, obviously if I was modding the car and going 'all the way' with a megasquirt and deleting a few things here and there, the only people interested in buying the car would be autocrossers and other true enthusiasts.

 

This car is too common and has too many miles to be a collector car, so it's not about that. In the miata engine, you don't *really* have to open it up to change the camshafts. It doesn't add much over just doing the timing belt since the cover's coming off anyway. The intake cam that came stock on the EUDM/JDM motors is different than the ones that came in the US ones. It has a bit more lift/duration and adds a bit of torque/hp relative to the stock one the US got. The EUDM/JDM intake manifold has better flow as well.

 

Doing the more 'intense' cams etc wouldn't be possible on a stock ecu (which is why I'm reading about/looking up options), in my case, doing so properly would also require switching to a VVT head from a 01-05 NB2 to let the car stay streetable. Not an option right now, but it will certainly be considered in the future. 

I'm looking into megasquirts for now as I can't find anything about worthwhile piggybacks. There's pretty solid DIY support for the MS3.

 

This post is reputable: http://forum.miata.net/vb/showpost.php?p=5704021&postcount=24

 

Quote: (emilio)
 Decide on a few things up front and it'll be easier for the rest of us to offer useful advice.

-Autocross, what class?
-Wheel to wheel racing or HPDE only, what class?
-Street only?
-Does it need to be emissions legal in any state? (what state)
-Must it be able to run on pump gas and if so, what octane?
-Must it run in a street car, (A/C, OEM alternator, col start driveability etc) ?
-Actual budget for everything connected to engine/power making hardware?
-Tuned by a pro or semi-knowledgeable amateur?
-You cool with the additional tuning/set up hassles of an IRTB set up?
-Does the car need to be quiet?
-Do you have a shop in mind that is familiar with race BP series builds?

Cost no object, I suspect someone could build a 300whp grenade that runs on exotic fuel. In the real world 150-190whp is doable within the budget of the most of us.

150whp is bolt-ons and a good tune. Above that you need to go into the motor.
160-165whp is just a little bowl work and compression.
170whp requires more substantial head work or mild cams or lots of compression, pick one.
185whp requires mild cams (still streetable in a VVT), compression, porting. Pick two.
195whp full head work, lots of compression and mild to medium race cams.
205whp+ is pretty much a full race engine with cams that would probably never idle for street use.
225whp+ so and the life expectancy begins to shorten. Perhaps 15-30 race hrs and you're looking at a $15-20K long block.

We have just touched 180whp on stock cams with an NB2 motor but it was not cheap. Based on the data from that experiment, I know 190whp on stock cams is possible with IRTB's, more compression and E85. At that point however, you should just feed it the cams it wants. We played with stock cams to gain a higher BFSC for endurance racing.

For most guys, I think a stock-ish cam NB2 build makes the most sense. Run as much compression as your fuel will stand, get the best ECU you can, build a Honda B series manifold grafted onto the Mazda flange, RB/Maruha/Maxim works header, fully port and polish the head. Forged everything, SUB's and heavier valve springs. That should net and easy 175whp or so, be safe to 8000rpm sustained, idle like a stocker and last 100 race hours.
post #25318 of 26276
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbarwick View Post
 

Do you have to pay for Porsche to badge delete or do you pay for the long list of badges?

No, the badge delete is a $0 cost item.  One of the few things that's free.  The long chrome sentences on the cars are free.  

 

It only costs more if you want the decals with the model name on the doors (which I think looks stupid), or on the newest series of cars if you want to have the model badging painted body color (that wasn't an option when we were ordering the car...but I would still have gone with badge delete).  In addition, choosing the painted badge option doesn't still results in chrome Porsche letters above.  If I could have deleted the model designations and maybe had the Porsche name painted so it doesn't stand out as much, I'd have gone with that. 

post #25319 of 26276
Gah, the B.S you get fed about your car makes me want to flip my desk on a daily basis. It almost frustrates me as much as Tokyo saturday traffic.

So how much was this used camshaft you have been told you can put in using the current bearings, lifters, valves without opening the engine? - valvetrain components wear together. Do it right. Or eff up your engine.
Apexi,HKS,Greddy,Haltech. All have an ecu solution for you. With the jdm companies having offices stateside. (Except Apexi, but meh. Good products)
post #25320 of 26276
I actually thought about a badge delete on the GT4, because of all that clutter. I forgot to make a decision before it locked, so oh wells
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