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On Pants - Page 7

post #91 of 95

Thank you very much for your input! 


I am sorry to disturb but I will overload you with questions...

How I should deal with the high hip? The left side needs to be cut higher? If I let the thigh looser the front problem will be solved? The butt problem can the solved if that area is shortened? 

The thigh does not feel tight, but it is not comfortable. The crotch is fine.




Here is the RTW trouser. It is not that bad, considering the pedigree.

The high hip is really obvious in the first photograph and what should be the cause of the rumple behind the pocket at the third photo?


Fit pics. (Click to show)










Edited by Victor Elfo - 7/25/12 at 10:13pm
post #92 of 95

Great article

post #93 of 95

A problem that I have seen consistently with my pants, no matter if RTW, MTM or bespoke is that the waist band on the front gets crushed. Now, I have a bit of a belly :-). Is the solution to have a higher rise or are there other methods?

post #94 of 95
I have noticed that traditional tailors refer to rise as outseam minus inseam.
Modern businesses, no matter if they sell RTW trousers or offer MTM seem to exclusively work with front and back rise as well as inseam.
What is the reason for this change in practice and how did traditional tailors balance the seam lenghts that are nowadays referred to as back rise (length from crotch to the top of the back of the waistband) and front rise (length from the crotch to the top of the front of the waistband)?
post #95 of 95
Hey Louis XIV

The true rise is measured in a straight line not on a curve.
Go to search and ask for 'tailors technical tutorials".
Scroll down to ."the rise".
Looking at a trouser you can see that the back is higher than the front.
The use of a front and back rise is for comparisons.
The cutters know what the patterns measurements are.
They then can make an educated guess as the front to back angle of
the waist band.

Think about the fellow who wears his belt buckle under his belly.
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