Note that the NYT does article on guess what place to eat?http://www.nytimes.com/2006/07/19/di...gewanted=print
The New York Times
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July 19, 2006
The Chef: Anne Quatrano
Peaches and Ice Milk: A Marriage Made in Georgia
By KIM SEVERSON
IF you're a sous-chef, having a boss with a farm is not always such a great thing.
Anne Quatrano and her husband, Clifford Harrison, live on 60 acres about an hour's drive from their three Atlanta restaurants. They've got chickens, turkeys and goats. They've got a few random head of cattle and two pigs. They've got herb beds and pea vines.
And they've got peach trees. Dozens of peach trees. The fruit grows on trees that shade the modern farmhouse she designed, and stretch out over her family property.
"They aren't pretty, but they're delicious," Ms. Quatrano said of the fruit they bear.
The peaches from their trees come in three waves, the early clings in late June, then a crop of white peaches and, closer to August, the peaches the chef likes best.
Last year, the trees were so prolific that Mr. Harrison filled the bed of his pickup truck with a few thousand pounds of fruit and drove it to Bacchanalia, their first restaurant and the flagship of a mini-empire that includes the Floataway CafÃ©, Quinones at Bacchanalia and the specialty food store, Star Provisions.
"The chefs just dropped their jaws," Mr. Harrison said. The cooks canned, froze and juiced peaches until the truck was empty.
Here in New York, lovers of stone fruit can only dream of such a bounty. But Northeast peaches are starting to show up at farm stands, and Ms. Quatrano suggests putting them to good use in a simple dessert.
Like any self-respecting Atlanta chef, she has a solid repertoire of peach desserts. A favorite is based on a simple maceration of lemon juice and sugar.
The process gives a little assist to fruit that isn't quite ripe or is slightly flawed. Ms. Quatrano reminds people that if they buy peaches that are not yet ripe the fruit will soften (but will not technically ripen more) if left at room temperature for a day or so. But if the peaches are fragrant and ripe, the sugar-lemon bath in this recipe can be skipped, she said.
Don't store peaches piled in a bowl. They are delicate and need to be left in a single layer to prevent bruising.
For the rest of the dessert, Ms. Quatrano browns rounds of brioche, although a fresh biscuit will work. Then she carefully steeps dried chamomile blossoms "” just like the kind one might make a cup of tea with "” in hot, sweetened milk for about 20 minutes.
She turns the scented milk into ice milk, which marries the peaches to the brioche. Ms. Quatrano likes how the chamomile brings out the honey notes in the peaches and gives them a fuller flavor.
The ice milk itself is a surprisingly refreshing contrast to the heavy, custard-based ice creams coming out of many a chef's ice-cream maker lately. The only drawback, and it's a small one, is that it can crystallize when left in the freezer.
Fresh from the machine, though, the ice milk has plenty of sweet dairy notes and a creamy texture.
"Why bother making a custard?" Ms. Quatrano said. "I understand the richness thing, but the lightness of an ice milk is much more appealing in the summer."
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