A very positive experience with ModernTailor

I like online MTM websites. I can never have enough shirts. I sit behind a computer all day and fussing over measurements and fabrics is a great time killer. This shirt is from Modern Tailor (www.moderntailor.com). Fabric: Blue oxford R39 Collar: Cut Away 1 5/8 height, 2 3/4 points Cuffs: French Square With split yoke, thin MOP buttons, and "backsplit" Total price $76.95 with shipping. Had I known about the $20 off coupon at the time, I would have used it. Received in ten days from ordering. Impressions: 1) Fabric is excellent. Light and soft. Exponentially better than anything I've received from Jantzen's fine european cardboard collection. After three washes it has gotten softer. 2) Construction is impeccable. Stitching is perfect. This looks like a high-end Hong Kong made shirt. 3) Collar wears very nicely. Ordered stiff collar interlining. It would be a "normal" anywhere else. Their cuffs per default are too soft. Hard to put cuff links through. Will specify both stiff collar and cuffs upon next order. 4) Thin MOP buttons are lovely. I am moving away from ostentatious big collars and buttons on my shirts. 5) My measurements were followed exactly as were additional specifications (1 1/4" placket, zero tie space) Here are some pictures. Straight out of the dryer and a quick iron, collar needs a touch up: A photo was taken of me the other day while wearing this shirt. Should give you a general idea, please see changes for second order before telling me all the problems you see with it, because I see them too, and I do prefer my shirts to fit more 'relaxed' than many here: With second order I will change the following: - Change yoke to shoulder ratio to eliminate some sleeve bunching in the back - Reduce armhole size - Reduce bicep/forearm dimensions for slightly slimmer sleeve - Reduce cuff height from 3" to 2.5" and reduce by 1/2" - Slim chest, waist, hip. I made a mistake and made the chest too big. - Reduce sleeve length by 1/4" My conclusions: The fabric is great The website is extremely easy to use They will do anything you want custom (monogram in yoke, cuff height change, placket & stitching details) without an upcharge (yet) The shirts arrive in ten days So far,

Nice shirt. Looks like you have all the alterations that make sense covered already.

Great looking shirt, when I get around to it, I'll take some measurements and order one!

Nice kitchen too.

Looks good. Certainly more inspiring than some of the other ModernTailor threads that have popped up in recent months. It probably also helps that you're in good shape (no ****).

Since you've been a Jantzen customer, how would you compare the construction quality to Jantzen's?

Also, what fabric price point did you go with here?

Originally Posted by Arrogant Bastard

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Since you've been a Jantzen customer, how would you compare the construction quality to Jantzen's?
Curious about this too. Looks like the side hems are not single needle like how Jantzen does it, which matters to some people -- me, not so much. BTW, French cuffs are incongruous with the oxford fabric and stitched down placket.

Originally Posted by Kent Wang

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Curious about this too. Looks like the side hems are not single needle like how Jantzen does it, which matters to some people -- me, not so much. BTW, French cuffs are incongruous with the oxford fabric and stitched down placket.
Construction: Stitching - on par in terms of "pitch" but better in that unlike most of my Jantzen shirts there are not errors. Construction - single needle throughout. Buttons - thoroughly stitched down. Interlining - better (not as stiff). So, on par to better, minus the overruns and errors my Jantzen shirts have. Also, the collar is "better" to me than anything from Jantzen. I could never get a collar I found attractive from Jantzen. As to your BTW, that's exactly why it's a custom shirt.

Originally Posted by username79

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Construction: Stitching - on par in terms of "pitch" but better in that unlike most of my Jantzen shirts there are not errors. Construction - single needle throughout. Buttons - thoroughly stitched down. Interlining - better (not as stiff). So, on par to better, minus the overruns and errors my Jantzen shirts have. Also, the collar is "better" to me than anything from Jantzen. I could never get a collar I found attractive from Jantzen.

As to your BTW, that's exactly why it's a custom shirt.

What's with Jantzen's collars? Why is it so hard to get a full spread collar from them?

Originally Posted by taxgenius69

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What's with Jantzen's collars? Why is it so hard to get a full spread collar from them?

I've had similar issues with MyTailor. I'm not sure, but I think it has a lot to do with Hong Kong tailoring preferences in general. Smaller and nonspread collars tend to be the house style for most Hong Kong shops, and trying to explain a different collar style can be like pulling teeth.

Looking good. Second try should be perfect.

I only really consider the width of shoulder, so what is yoke to shoulder ratio?

Originally Posted by winston

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Looking good. Second try should be perfect.

I only really consider the width of shoulder, so what is yoke to shoulder ratio?

From their website:

Yoke



Shoulder



Being able to give different measurements allows you chose the angle of the armhole and the width of the back to shoulder difference. As far as I know, the only online MTM service that gives you this level of control. I found that with Zegna shirts that I own, while the traditional shoulder measurement is a standard 18-18.5, that the angle of the armhole is steeper, causing less bunching of fabric in the rear and a cleaner overall appearance. I will post pics of the second shirt when it arrives, if my theories are correct the improvement will be noticeable.

Originally Posted by taxgenius69

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What's with Jantzen's collars? Why is it so hard to get a full spread collar from them?
I have had them duplicate RLBL collars with exact specifications for front/back height, collar leaf, point to point spread, and angle. And they have duplicated them exactly. However, the collars always look flattened and splay open in a very unattractive manner. I gave up. The collar in my fit pic is of the same specifications, but looks exactly how I want it to (basically, look like it does while open, while having points that just fit under an RLPL jacket lapels with a tie on), on my first try. Some shirtmaking voodoo.

I like the fabric, it seems to be good quality

Originally Posted by Kent Wang

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Curious about this too. Looks like the side hems are not single needle like how Jantzen does it, which matters to some people -- me, not so much.

BTW, French cuffs are incongruous with the oxford fabric and stitched down placket.

I agree that French cuffs are out of place with a casual oxford cloth, but there's nothing wrong with french cuffs and a placket. It's the way it's done on Jermyn St.

Originally Posted by Kent Wang

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Curious about this too. Looks like the side hems are not single needle like how Jantzen does it, which matters to some people -- me, not so much.

It looks like single needle to me, just a wider-spaced flat-felled seam than many makers use. Not necessarily a bad thing.

The collar points look like they could be of an uneven length. Are they?