I don't want to enter the discussion whether that problems with excessive creasing (which all shoes of Mr Kiss seem to have) is due to poor leather quality, sloppy lasting (not pulled tightly enough) or inadequate storage of the shoes over all those years (too damp, too dry, too hot, whatever). I haven't seen or handled the shoes, so I have no firm opinion one way or the other.
But let me clear up, why the same hide has different qualities of leather within. (fritzl's description is a bit too "˜purple-prosed' for me).
Originally Posted by fritzl
a hide is divided in at least into four parts, given from the anatomy of a calf/kalbine(older than one year) and a cow.
all parts are qualified/approved to make a proper pair of shoes. this is also part of the adventurous journey of bespoke.
scenario: you choose from a virgin hide - all set
you are at the atelier and catches a glimpse of a hide. i.e. it's a small piece including imperfections.
ask yourself? are you going for it, or do you pass on it?
from my personal experience, there's nothing worse than a "chance", you didn't get a hold of.
When you buy hides, all tanneries will supply the same leather in three different qualities, based on the number of flaws within a particular hide. Even the fist quality is not without any flaws, but of course has far less than the third quality. All hides, be they first or third quality, have the same natural characteristics that the leather in certain sections of the animal is better than in other sections.
The best leather comes from the butt and the very best leather is cut near the spine of the animal. When you go further up into the shoulder, the leather is still firm and strong, but has increasing "˜growth' (stretch marks where the animal grew too quickly, resulting in light long lines within the skin). Once you go higher up into the neck, the leather gets more unpredictable, there might be firm spots sitting next to flabby, loose ones. The same thing applies to the belly, the further out you cut the lesser the leather quality.
It depends on the quality of work you want to produce, how much leather will end up on the "˜clicking' (cutting) room floor. For low-priced work you try to use almost any scrap, for high-priced work, you only go for the very best sections; that means you might get only one or two pairs out of a skin, opposed to four or five. In cheaper work you also try to hide the defects of loose leather texture by gluing a fabric onto the back to give the leather a firmer handle.
It is also important, that a particular pair of shoes has all it's pieces cut from the same skin. That is virtually always the case in bespoke (or one-offs), but not necessarily in large factories, where very often the cutting is done by "˜cookie-cutters'. (You cut all the toe caps out of one hide and all the vamps from another hide, That saves changing the cutting forms all the time.