I'm back. Met a guy on the train who was headed to Fes (to sell the merchants material he imports from China, which is his regular business). He helped me figure out where to go, so I went to:
Fes for one day. Hired a guide, I walked him to death. He said I was the first tourist who ever made him tired (incidentally, I've been limping along with a cane LOL). Eight hours of walking later, I had seen all of Fes that I needed to see. Interesting place - I enjoyed it, I recommend if you go you stay at one of the Riads. I stayed at Riad Louna, it was wonderful and cheap. I also went to Berber doctor who tried to prescribe me opium, so if that's your thing . . . . Lots of donkey shit everywhere, so if that's not your thing . . . .
Went from there to Rabat on the first train in the morning. Spent the day in Rabat. Nice place, interesting casbah painted like the Greek island villages (without the sparkling water though). Good food. Interesting night market full of crap you don't need. Interesting museums. All in all a fine place.
From there, I went to Casablanca, looked around for a few hours, saw the big mosque, hit the road.
What set this trip off from many I've been on was the quality of the people I encountered. Other than the scam artists in the tourist section of the medina, everyone was so fantastically nice it was almost startling. Keep in mind I live much of the time in North Carolina - it's not like people there are rude. However, this is the first trip I've ever been on where an elderly couple in my train car fed me (and fed me, and fed me) from their lunch, where another family I met on the train offered to put me up for the night (and did, in Rabat), etc., etc., etc. Trust me, I'm not naturally charming . . . .
The people were among the nicest of anywhere I've ever been, and this was about country no. 50 for me. A lot of my travel has been in the "3rd world" and people are usually pretty nice, but Moroccans are at the upper end of the scale.
Also, Morocco is dirt cheap. My dinner in Fes (at my hotel) was about $35-$40, and more than worth it, but the most I paid for anything to eat other than that was about $6, and it was usually around $2. Four hour train from Casablanca to Fes was maybe $25-$30? Taxi rides were usually $2 - $3. I paid my guide the most he had ever been paid - he didn't ask for it, I just thought he was a good guide - grand total: 40 euros.
So, there you have it. If you can tolerate a moderate level of human poverty, donkey shit, and shady characters trying to sell you rugs and knock-off Hugo Boss, I recommend it.