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Lining a blazer with cotton/linen shirting

post #1 of 32
4/9/10 at 6:48pm
Thread Starter 
I've seen an advert for Kiton CI.PA. jackets. They have interesting checked linen shirting lining. I'm tempted to opt for a similar solution for a summer blazer I'm about to order. The cloth is a 10oz hopsackish wool with a very open weave, almost see-through, so the lining would have to have a blue ground and not too much contrast. But my real concern is with practicality: I like the look of shirtings, and I think they will breathe more than even the thinnest conventional lining material (bemberg etc.), but will they wrinkle in ways that affect the fit of the coat? (Note that it is a lightweight cloth.) I was thinking that maybe a linen/cotton blend would work better than all linen, even though Kiton uses the latter. Does anyone have any experience with this sort of lining with lightweight jacketings? Thanks in advance for your feedback.
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post #2 of 32
4/9/10 at 6:49pm
I've had tailors use shirting to line pants. I guess there's no reason it couldn't work on a coat.
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post #3 of 32
4/9/10 at 7:13pm
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post #4 of 32
4/9/10 at 7:13pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post
I've had tailors use shirting to line pants. I guess there's no reason it couldn't work on a coat.

All my bespoke trousers are lined with cotton shirting in complementary-coloured stripes (but none of them are lined in the legs) -- it's my tailor's default option. But I'm thinking that if the linen lining wrinkles on the back or the seat of the coat it may cause the cloth to bunch up.
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post #5 of 32
4/9/10 at 7:20pm
Some things to consider- not all cottons will slide as well as a lining and the drag can be less comfortable than lining. Pure cottons are fairly crisp so some bunching may show on the garment- for this reason most of us are using cotton/modal blends in shirting stripes to give the same effect but be more comfortable and practical.
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post #6 of 32
4/9/10 at 7:26pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post
Some things to consider- not all cottons will slide as well as a lining and the drag can be less comfortable than lining. Pure cottons are fairly crisp so some bunching may show on the garment- for this reason most of us are using cotton/modal blends in shirting stripes to give the same effect but be more comfortable and practical.

Yes, good point.
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post #7 of 32
4/9/10 at 7:29pm
I like the idea. A downside could be that you can't slide the jacket on very easily. I have some unlined cotton jackets, and cotton on cotton (or linen) doesn't slide very well, if you know what I mean. For a coat for my daughter 'we' used a cotton lining, except for the sleeves, which were lined with bemberg, and that works well.

Perhaps it's just a minor disadvantage, but it might be something to take into account.


Edit: I missed jefferyd's post. Sorry about that. To compensate, a picture:

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post #8 of 32
4/9/10 at 7:32pm
Are you going with full lining?
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post #9 of 32
4/9/10 at 7:34pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kent Wang View Post
Are you going with full lining?

Not advisable in cotton or cotton blends.
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post #10 of 32
4/9/10 at 7:55pm
I have a summer sc that is half lined with light cotton shirting. no complaints, although probably not strictly as practical as other options for the reasons mentioned.
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post #11 of 32
4/9/10 at 8:00pm
make sure the coat is lined in bemberg or some slippery lining in the sleeves at least. that is key
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post #12 of 32
4/9/10 at 9:21pm
My half-lined jackets with cotton are just fine, but the ones that are fully lined with cotton fabric tend to cause my shirts to bunch a bit more against the lining of the jacket.
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post #13 of 32
4/10/10 at 6:53am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post
Some things to consider- not all cottons will slide as well as a lining and the drag can be less comfortable than lining. Pure cottons are fairly crisp so some bunching may show on the garment- for this reason most of us are using cotton/modal blends in shirting stripes to give the same effect but be more comfortable and practical.

Thanks for the suggestions. Not to derail my own thread, but modal really is amazing: I bought some undershirts in this material (Oscalito by Maglificio Po, Turin) and I'm very impressed. Expensive, but worth it.
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post #14 of 32
4/10/10 at 6:55am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kent Wang View Post
Are you going with full lining?

Yes, I was thinking full lining because the cloth looks a bit too see-through. Can't remember what it's called, but I think it was in a Drapers book. Maybe I should just go with a 100% linen lining, like Kiton did?
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post #15 of 32
4/10/10 at 6:58am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sho'nuff View Post
make sure the coat is lined in bemberg or some slippery lining in the sleeves at least. that is key

Yes, I'll probably go with the usual white/yellow striped bemberg for the sleeves. I really like this thing that all my coats have the same sleeve lining, no matter what.
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