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- Mar 11, 2006
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The problem with the no substitutions/no changes policy is that it is part of the greater attempt to move food from being part of our cultural experience to being an "art" for self important jerks. As part of the former it included not only what the chef/host wants to make, and exactly how he thinks it should look, but also care for the person eating, generosity, understanding etc. Just because it happens in a restaurant doesn't mean that the act of nourishing is any further removed from the experience as it is at the family table. When you have somebody over, you think of them, what they like, what they don't, and then if you find out that they are allergic to something you feel bad, even a bit embarrassed, not angry and indignant that they are not the people you think they ought to be. Restaurants obviously are a bit different in this way, but given their standing as a place for nourishment and a place for people to interact and enjoy themselves, the restaurant should do its best to accomodate this very fundamental part of being human.
I'm not sure, exactly, why this generation of cook and this generation of new diner, I assume many of them are not from families who dined out at good restaurants and likely not from families who dined together much, has somehow come on the idea that the meal is spectacle and show disassociated from human interaction. It is evident in the food, the way people talk at dinner, the willingness to justify these odd practices, the constant picture taking and blogging about meals often in ways that do nothing but display how much they don't understand the food they are praising. It is evident when, for example, you are sitting at the French Laundry and the waiter starts to go on with a canned story about how "chef" decided to serve salmon cones when he was in line at Baskin Robbins one day, and it is perhaps most evident when a ******* burger place tells you that what you eat is all about the chef's desire and not at all about yours. It is a complete break between of one of the most human actions, eating together, from anything that is remotely real and human.
TLDR version. If you buy all your friends the same gift, no matter what color they like and what size they are, you are an asshole, not a generous person involved in a dialogue.
I'm not sure, exactly, why this generation of cook and this generation of new diner, I assume many of them are not from families who dined out at good restaurants and likely not from families who dined together much, has somehow come on the idea that the meal is spectacle and show disassociated from human interaction. It is evident in the food, the way people talk at dinner, the willingness to justify these odd practices, the constant picture taking and blogging about meals often in ways that do nothing but display how much they don't understand the food they are praising. It is evident when, for example, you are sitting at the French Laundry and the waiter starts to go on with a canned story about how "chef" decided to serve salmon cones when he was in line at Baskin Robbins one day, and it is perhaps most evident when a ******* burger place tells you that what you eat is all about the chef's desire and not at all about yours. It is a complete break between of one of the most human actions, eating together, from anything that is remotely real and human.
TLDR version. If you buy all your friends the same gift, no matter what color they like and what size they are, you are an asshole, not a generous person involved in a dialogue.