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english shoes quality heirachy

post #1 of 84
Thread Starter 
can someone please advise me on how the following shoes relate in quality?

cheaney, trickers, barker, churches (current not ye olde) and loake.

are they essentially all the same in quality and just a difference in styling?

also is there a noticable increase in quality moving to a Crockett and Jones?
post #2 of 84
C&J Handgrade Trickers C&J Benchgrade Church Cheaney Loake In my honest opinion, of course. Slightly biased because I never had a Loake from the 1880 line. Church is a bit of a hit-or-miss, because some are definetely better than C&J Benchgrade.
post #3 of 84
Quote:
Originally Posted by MMorley View Post
C&J Handgrade
Trickers
C&J Benchgrade
Church
Cheaney
Loake

In my honest opinion, of course. Slightly biased because I never had a Loake from the 1880 line. Church is a bit of a hit-or-miss, because some are definetely better than C&J Benchgrade.

Roughly - (but shoes vary, and it depends on how much weight you put on leather quality, construction, finishing, style etc.)

Edward Green
C&J Handgrade
Trickers
Grenson Rose
Barker Hand-crafted
Alfred Sargent Premier
C&J Benchgrade
Cheaney Signature
Church
C&J Benchgrade
Church
Cheaney (most)
Barker non-hand-crafted calf
Sanders calf
Loake 1880
Alfred Sargent Classic
Sanders non-calf, Loake non-calf, Grenson Feathermaster, Barkers non-calf
post #4 of 84
Edward Green
C&J Handgrade
Trickers
Grenson Rose
Barker Hand-crafted
C&J Benchgrade
Cheaney Signature
Church
Cheaney (most)
Alfred Sargent Premier
Barker non-hand-crafted calf
Loake 1880
Alfred Sargent Classic
Sanders calf
Sanders non-calf, Loake non-calf, Grenson Feathermaster, Barkers non-calf

I think that would be my running order.
post #5 of 84
Thread Starter 
thanks gents
post #6 of 84
I can't believe so many people put Church's as low as they do. They are incredibly solid shoes, also Grenson Rose, Barker Hand-Crafted and Trickers over C&J Benchgrade I think is ridiculous. In my opinion C&J is way above both. I think Barker Black would probably be about comparable to C&J Benchgrade.
post #7 of 84
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vox Populi View Post
Edward Green C&J Handgrade Trickers Grenson Rose Barker Hand-crafted C&J Benchgrade Alden Cheaney Signature Church Cheaney (most) Alfred Sargent Premier Barker non-hand-crafted calf Loake 1880 Alfred Sargent Classic Sanders calf Sanders non-calf, Loake non-calf, Grenson Feathermaster, Barkers non-calf I think that would be my running order.
I know this isn't exactly the thread topic, but where would Alden go in here? does my instert look about right? edit: 2nd try
post #8 of 84
My opinion, concerning shoes with which I have some familiarity, in terms of quality (not styling):

Edward Green
Lobb
Gaziano & Girling
C&J Handgrade
C&J / Church's (tie)
post #9 of 84
Quote:
Originally Posted by archetypal_yuppie View Post
My opinion, concerning shoes with which I have some familiarity, in terms of quality (not styling):

Edward Green
Lobb
Gaziano & Girling
C&J Handgrade
C&J / Church's (tie)

+1
post #10 of 84
Quote:
Originally Posted by makewayhomer View Post
I know this isn't exactly the thread topic, but where would Alden go in here?

does my instert look about right?

Nah, I would say higher than that.
post #11 of 84
Don't know Alden, I'm afraid. From what I've seen I would guess that they would probably be around the Loake 1880 mark.
post #12 of 84
Um... Alden isn't English. It's American.
post #13 of 84
More surprising than Church's being underrated, is Cleverley's Anthony range being completely ignored, which I would rank above JL, G&G and EG.

As for the shoe-makers mentioned I would say:
Church's Royal Collection
C&J Handgrade
Church's/C&J
Trickers
Cheaneys
Barkers
Loake

I have missed out Barker Black because I have never seen a pair.
post #14 of 84
Quote:
Originally Posted by ManofKent View Post
Roughly - (but shoes vary, and it depends on how much weight you put on leather quality, construction, finishing, style etc.)

Edward Green
C&J Handgrade
Trickers
Grenson Rose
Barker Hand-crafted
Alfred Sargent Premier
C&J Benchgrade
Cheaney Signature
Church
C&J Benchgrade
Church
Cheaney (most)
Barker non-hand-crafted calf
Sanders calf
Loake 1880
Alfred Sargent Classic
Sanders non-calf, Loake non-calf, Grenson Feathermaster, Barkers non-calf
That looks like a pretty interesting list. I should get myself a pair of Alfred Sargent Premier and a pair of Grenson Rose.
post #15 of 84
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post
I can't believe so many people put Church's as low as they do. They are incredibly solid shoes, also Grenson Rose, Barker Hand-Crafted and Trickers over C&J Benchgrade I think is ridiculous. In my opinion C&J is way above both. I think Barker Black would probably be about comparable to C&J Benchgrade.

Interesting. I agree Church make very solid decent shoes, and their soles are particularly good, but I find the leather used on the uppers on the pair I own (and others I've handled) to be a bit stiff and rather 'flat'. I own a couple of pairs of C&J Benchgrade and like them, but attention to detail on finishing isn't as good as that on my Grenson Rose, Barker Hand-Crafted or Trickers.

It's difficult - is a softer more supple leather upper like Barker use on their Hand-Crafted, better than the tougher more damage resistant leather Grenson use on their Rose collection? I'm not sure. Some people put more value on closed channeling - providing the stitches are recessed enough for me it's not that important.

It's also difficult not to take value into consideration.

I can only assess quality on how the leather looks and feels, what the finishing is like and where I own them (and I own at least one pair from most of the major English manufacturers up to the Edward Green price point) how well they wear, how well they take polish etc. I've not the money or knowledge to cut them up and examine the internal construction.
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