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Poll: Attolini vs. Rubinacci vs. Steed - Page 7

post #91 of 301
4/6/10 at 12:27am
Judging by the pictures he seems to stand in interesting places a lot. At least more often then I do.
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post #92 of 301
4/6/10 at 12:39am
With just a quick look, I like Attolini #5 the best. Good all around shape.

I didn't peruse too carefully and haven't read any of the other comments. Overall, the Attolinis look pretty nice to me. It must be kinda fun to try out all those different tailoring shops. Nice wardrobe.
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post #93 of 301
4/6/10 at 1:24am
First of all, Montesquieu, thanks for posting these, especially on a forum known for its nitpicking.

I do wonder, and I hope I didn't miss an earlier answer: Are you asking for these to be extra slim? They're much more snug than I'd expect.
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post #94 of 301
4/6/10 at 1:36am
Attolini for the win.

90% of your pants need retooling.
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post #95 of 301
4/6/10 at 1:38am
Attolini #7 is by far my favorite. It is a beautiful jacket.

-LR
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post #96 of 301
4/6/10 at 1:39am
Quote:
Originally Posted by edmorel View Post
I think you should focus more on your pants than on the jackets. While some of the coats are better than others, they are all, at worse, very servicable. Your pants, on the other hand.......

+1^10

welcome to bespoke understood only waistup. Beautiful jackets but (to OP) oh boy what happend to below waist? None of the pants have the right balance!

You know they charged you for pants too lol!

If you do have pants where balance /fall is correct, please post pictures (front ,side and back) as they will be most valuable to others. Thank you for sharing the pictures.
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post #97 of 301
4/6/10 at 2:26am
not to nitpick: 1^10 is still 1 steed rubinacci attolini is the criticism for steed due to the slight bunching of material near the first button, or the shapely siluhoute? the latter of which i found to be the winning factor.
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post #98 of 301
4/6/10 at 2:44am
Rubinacci #1- Elegant fits beautifully

Steed #5- Bold and Ivy-inspired. I love it

Castagnia #1 Fit is flattering

My opinion is prejudiced by the fact that I dislike patch pockets, ticket
pockets, and broad overplaids.
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post #99 of 301
4/6/10 at 2:56am
Attolini #4,5 and 7 look fantastic ... the steed trousers in that grey 3-piece is fantastic. Something seems off with the steed jackets in general, maybe they need more time to settle on the body. Maybe for your next commission you can talk to Edwin about having the jackets with a less accentuated waist. The Rubinaccis have good silhouette but don't look as good as the Attolinis.

I really like your fabric choices for your bespoke items. You have excellent taste.
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post #100 of 301
4/6/10 at 3:20am
Thread Starter 
Thanks, everyone, for the opinions expressed. They've been as provocative, detailed, and contradictory as anticipated.

The criticisms levelled at these skilled tailors show how hard this is to get right, and how hard-to-please we are collectively. God doesn't put perfection within easy reach. Otherwise, Butler's final 3 would have fallen. As for the critique of my color- and style-deprived judgment, points taken.

I can't help but feel that were I a smarter customer, I might get better results. Vox, Manton, Mao, PG, and others demonstrate this. My attention splits across too many interests, and I've simplistically relied on masters rather than learn enough to challenge them.

I just watched a video of Richard Sachs, the preeminent American handmade bicycle framemaker on whose waiting list I will wait for the next 7+ years. One of his several mottos is "imperfection is perfection". I've accepted that that applies to clothing as well, since I enjoy a number of my imperfections.



Quote:
Originally Posted by DocHolliday View Post
I do wonder, and I hope I didn't miss an earlier answer: Are you asking for these to be extra slim? They're much more snug than I'd expect.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Soph View Post
90% of your pants need retooling.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tutee View Post
+1^10

welcome to bespoke understood only waistup. Beautiful jackets but (to OP) oh boy what happend to below waist? None of the pants have the right balance!

You know they charged you for pants too lol!


In response to so much criticism of my trousers, I'll say a few words about them. First, most of the non-suit trousers shown are slim-fit Incotex and Cucinelli. If RTW gets slimmer than that, I don't know where. Second, I like the way that Incotex and Cucinelli look and fit. The vitriole surprises me, but so be it. Third, don't presume that bespoke is the solution. My Ambrosis are baggier, despite multiple rounds of "thinning", and have been well criticized as such in other threads.

As for the bespoke trousers shown, I agree that the Rubinacci suit, Attolini dinner, and Steed suit trousers have excess room. The Rubinacci was originally even baggier, before I made a final (fourth?) visit to the Milan store just to have them taken in. Why the struggle? I presume that it stems from an unusual physique. In two weeks, I'll run my third mountain ultramarathon of 2010 before switching back to cycling. My legs are short relative to my height and muscular relative to my thin waist.

Perhaps there's a well-tailored solution. Perhaps I'm doomed to look imperfect. Resignation to the latter reduces my expectation for the former. But the criticism is well taken, and I'll pay more attention in the future. I posted in order to get this kind of input.
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post #101 of 301
4/6/10 at 4:24am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Montesquieu View Post
As for the bespoke trousers shown, I agree that the Rubinacci suit, Attolini dinner, and Steed suit trousers have excess room. The Rubinacci was originally even baggier, before I made a final (fourth?) visit to the Milan store just to have them taken in. Why the struggle? I presume that it stems from an unusual physique. In two weeks, I'll run my third mountain ultramarathon of 2010 before switching back to cycling. My legs are short relative to my height and muscular relative to my thin waist.

It has NOTHING to do with how full or slim the pants are. As long as they are dress pants with crease the same fit / balance applies. My objection to them is not the roominess but the line of cloth is all wrong (unless you are assuming other than natural posture).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Montesquieu View Post
Perhaps there's a well-tailored solution.

Of course there is one. However, it depends on you too! These days you cannot walk into an esteemed tailoring establishment and expect them to take care of everything. All tailors do require some sort of input from the customers, especially if you are relatively a new customer.

Most tailors of today create garbage when it comes to cutting pants. It is almost like not even important to them anymore. Again, not a question of slim or full but correct line / fall.

Thank you for your pictures.
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post #102 of 301
4/6/10 at 4:30am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Montesquieu View Post
I can't help but feel that were I a smarter customer, I might get better results. Vox, Manton, Mao, PG, and others demonstrate this. My attention splits across too many interests, and I've simplistically relied on masters rather than learn enough to challenge them.
...
Perhaps there's a well-tailored solution. Perhaps I'm doomed to look imperfect. Resignation to the latter reduces my expectation for the former. But the criticism is well taken, and I'll pay more attention in the future. I posted in order to get this kind of input.

i wouldnt be so hard on yourself. all the suits and jackets range from great to excellent in my very humble opinion.
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post #103 of 301
4/6/10 at 4:33am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Montesquieu View Post

In response to so much criticism of my trousers, I'll say a few words about them. First, most of the non-suit trousers shown are slim-fit Incotex and Cucinelli. If RTW gets slimmer than that, I don't know where. Second, I like the way that Incotex and Cucinelli look and fit. The vitriole surprises me, but so be it. Third, don't presume that bespoke is the solution. My Ambrosis are baggier, despite multiple rounds of "thinning", and have been well criticized as such in other threads.

As for the bespoke trousers shown, I agree that the Rubinacci suit, Attolini dinner, and Steed suit trousers have excess room. The Rubinacci was originally even baggier, before I made a final (fourth?) visit to the Milan store just to have them taken in. Why the struggle? I presume that it stems from an unusual physique. In two weeks, I'll run my third mountain ultramarathon of 2010 before switching back to cycling. My legs are short relative to my height and muscular relative to my thin waist.

Perhaps there's a well-tailored solution. Perhaps I'm doomed to look imperfect. Resignation to the latter reduces my expectation for the former. But the criticism is well taken, and I'll pay more attention in the future. I posted in order to get this kind of input.

I thank you for your genuine interest in receiving feedback. Reading the highlighted again, they are a bit troubling coming from a bespoke customer.
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post #104 of 301
4/6/10 at 4:35am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Herbert View Post
i wouldnt be so hard on yourself. all the suits and jackets range from great to excellent in my very humble opinion.

Horses for courses Montesquieu...

Apart from older SF statesmen , you will always receive a certain level of criticism on this forum.

Some people are so seeking the perfect lines ,cut or silhouette they forget we all different tastes and aesthetics...

Less dogma and more pleasure must be motto of SF...
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post #105 of 301
4/6/10 at 5:10am
OP,

I suspect your trousers mostly suffer from long back balance. This is not uncommon at all in bespoke trousers. I recall seeing a Solito suit posted on SF that had worse trouser balance issue than yours. It is not difficult to fix next time you commission bespoke trousers, but you will have to live with them for RTW. The fullness issue is a matter of comfort and how the trousers look when paired with your coats. Proportionately shorter legs should benefit from slimmer cut trousers along the lines of your RTW ones posted (but with shorter back balance).
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Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Poll: Attolini vs. Rubinacci vs. Steed