Originally Posted by jefferyd
They provide some mobility and comfort in most direction, but there are also other ways of doing it. The spalla a mappina would look completely ridiculous on the type of stuff you like to wear, though. And if you feel like your coat is going to rip when you sit like that, then your coat is too small. The perfect combination of elements to give you what you want (clean, lean and comfortable) would like like hell all glued together. BUt who knows- it may just catch on. You're dutch, right?
The spalla a mappina would look ridiculous on me specifically or everyone? I don't want to hijack this thread, but I go for a fitted, clean look: http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g.../yao3piece.jpg
...but I never thought of that jacket as too small
What are these 'other ways of doing it (achieving maximum mobility)' ?
I found this:
"It should be stated that the objective in the spalla a mappina is not to create pleats, but to create a elastic, soft and comfortable shoulder. These techniques are not specific to Naples, though they are commonly used there. They are also used by tailors in many countries who hand sew their shoulders and wish to create a very soft and elastic product
...would that 'elasticity' eliminate the need for a gusset or big old fold at the underside of the armscye? If so I'm eager to know what tailors can do this... the OP's?
Ohhh... and this:"The ones I've seen mentioned
[to increase mobility] include height of arm scye, amount of extra cloth fed in at the sleeve head and under the arm, using a "pleat" in the sleeve under the arm, the shape of the arm scye (vertical as seen from the front vs. teardrop-shaped, etc.) angle of sleeve set-in, width of shoulders (extended shoulders not helping mobility), and amount of drape at the blades in the back. There are no doubt others."
Only a Dutchman would dare to combine all of these into one ultimate super-suit?