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Poll: Attolini vs. Rubinacci vs. Steed - Page 19

post #271 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bull View Post
Who are these shitty, opinionated, obnoxious bespoke tailors everyone (Foo) refers to? Obviously not Despos and jeffreyd but um...aren't they the only ones actively poasting these days, except for Ambrosi, who only poasts to tell everyone when he's (not) coming to the States? Darren Beaman used to post quite regularly all over the intranets before he combusted, but I haven't seen him recently. Can't think of anyone else, but might as well name them, so we have a reference point. Carl Goldberg is pretty "in your face" but - with all due respect - anything less from a crotchety old Jewish tailor and you'd feel cheated.

Well, Reeves comes to mind, but I don't want to go there. Then, of course, there is Kabbaz.
post #272 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bull View Post
Who are these shitty, opinionated, obnoxious bespoke tailors everyone (Foo) refers to? Obviously not Despos and jeffreyd

Wait, what?

First, I'm not a god, and now I'm not even obnoxious? Geez, and I thought I was pretty self-aware...
post #273 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bull View Post
Carl Goldberg is pretty "in your face" but - with all due respect - anything less from a crotchety old Jewish tailor and you'd feel cheated.

he's not that old and what he lacks in age he makes up for in crotchety.



BTW, what is someone prefers a looser than SF approved collar on their suit? Are they "wrong" or is it a stylistic/comfort choice? (this is a loaded question)
post #274 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bull View Post
Who are these shitty, opinionated, obnoxious bespoke tailors everyone (Foo) refers to? Obviously not Despos and jeffreyd but um...

Despos can become obnoxious if you waken him suddenly.

Doing so is one of the jobs assigned to his apprentice. He uses a tailoring yardstick for this purpose to be just out of arm's length.


- B
post #275 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by edmorel View Post
BTW, what is someone prefers a looser than SF approved collar on their suit? Are they "wrong" or is it a stylistic/comfort choice? (this is a loaded question)

Depends. What's this person's advertising budget?

Is it vast?



- B
post #276 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by edmorel View Post
BTW, what is someone prefers a looser than SF approved collar on their suit? Are they "wrong" or is it a stylistic/comfort choice? (this is a loaded question)

I saw what you did there....





( )
post #277 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
Depends. What's this person's advertising budget?

Is it vast?



- B

It's Kiton-like.
post #278 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
Well, Reeves comes to mind, but I don't want to go there. Then, of course, there is Kabbaz.

post #279 of 301
This thread has tired me out...!
post #280 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
Everyone if I'm gesturing to show how well my collar fits.

Is that what we're supposed to do after we master the shoe circle?

--Andre
post #281 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by A Y View Post
Is that what we're supposed to do after we master the shoe circle?
Oh Andre, nobody ever masters the shoe circle. It is a way, not a destination.
post #282 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by edmorel View Post
BTW, what if someone prefers a looser than SF approved collar on their suit? Are they "wrong" or is it a stylistic/comfort choice? (this is a loaded question)

I have a couple jackets where the collars seem a little too tight. Gets uncomfortable after a half day of wear. I wouldn't mind if those were looser, so long as it doesn't create a huge gap.
post #283 of 301
Do the pleats at the top of the Attolini and Rubinacci sleeveheads actually provide more mobility, or are they just decoration? If so, in what position do they offer more ease, reaching forward, laterally? I have this crazy fantasy of wanting to rest my elbows on a desk while sitting and put my chin in my palms, similar to Parker's avatar just above, without my jacket ripping from the tension... do I have to get a gusset made at the bottom of an ultra-tiny armscye to do that? Would the Neapolitans be open to that?
post #284 of 301
I like my collars tight and my shirt collars to practically be a ligature.
post #285 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by Svenn View Post
Do the pleats at the top of the Attolini and Rubinacci sleeveheads actually provide more mobility, or are they just decoration? If so, in what position do they offer more ease, reaching forward, laterally?

I have this crazy fantasy of wanting to rest my elbows on a desk while sitting and put my chin in my palms, similar to Parker's avatar just above, without my jacket ripping from the tension... do I have to get a gusset made at the bottom of an ultra-tiny armscye to do that? Would the Neapolitans be open to that?

They provide some mobility and comfort in most direction, but there are also other ways of doing it. The spalla a mappina would look completely ridiculous on the type of stuff you like to wear, though. And if you feel like your coat is going to rip when you sit like that, then your coat is too small. The perfect combination of elements to give you what you want (clean, lean and comfortable) would like like hell all glued together. BUt who knows- it may just catch on. You're dutch, right?
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