or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Poll: Attolini vs. Rubinacci vs. Steed
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Poll: Attolini vs. Rubinacci vs. Steed - Page 16

post #226 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by George View Post
I missed your post first time around.

I don't know how technical discussions aid the prospective customer though, when I say technical discussions, I mean construction, cutting etc. I understand the voyeuristic appeal for them but I don't understand how it will actually makes them more stylish.


My feelings are a bit mixed on this one. If I were about to shell out several thousand dollars on a camera, for example, I would read up on them first so I knew what I was looking at but there is no dpreview.com equivalent for clothes written by people who know about them. Sometimes I agree that Sator oversteps the boundaries and should shut up about things he doesn't really understand, but at least he and Tutee are attempting to do what nobody in the trade (that I know of) has done and provide some information on evaluating what can be a very costly purchase. People should be informed that when your tailor tells you your coat needs to "break in a bit" for the collar to sit properly on the neck, he is just trying to get you out the door with a substandard product which shouldn't be accepted.
post #227 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by MBreinin View Post
Makes sense to me. The Steed was just a bit sharper, which appeals to me. The Attolini was really lovely...but seemed "older" to me. I guess despite all of the SF groupthink that has permeated my brain, a sharper cut still resonates with me. I liked the serious waist suppression and open quarters of the Steed best.

Mike

I've never had the pleasure of meeting Monty, but he strikes me as a successful, well traveled, fit, disciplined guy with dapper taste, a man who has benefitted from the close attention of some of the best tailors and makers of tailored clothing in the world.

The photographs that he has shared of himself have a openness to nitpicking that I do not believe for one second manifests itself in reality. He has his own sense of style, and that is such a basic win in the first place that I have no problem relegating the photos to the back seat.

This is my opinion as a trained wearer of clothing.

- B
post #228 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
Barbed wire? - B
...more like razor wire
post #229 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post
My feelings are a bit mixed on this one. If I were about to shell out several thousand dollars on a camera, for example, I would read up on them first so I knew what I was looking at but there is no dpreview.com equivalent for clothes written by people who know about them. Sometimes I agree that Sator oversteps the boundaries and should shut up about things he doesn't really understand, but at least he and Tutee are attempting to do what nobody in the trade (that I know of) has done and provide some information on evaluating what can be a very costly purchase. People should be informed that when your tailor tells you your coat needs to "break in a bit" for the collar to sit properly on the neck, he is just trying to get you out the door with a substandard product which shouldn't be accepted.

You don't pin dumbbells to your fronts to weigh them down in th adaptation phase of jacket ownership?



- B
post #230 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post
My feelings are a bit mixed on this one. If I were about to shell out several thousand dollars on a camera, for example, I would read up on them first so I knew what I was looking at but there is no dpreview.com equivalent for clothes written by people who know about them. Sometimes I agree that Sator oversteps the boundaries and should shut up about things he doesn't really understand, but at least he and Tutee are attempting to do what nobody in the trade (that I know of) has done and provide some information on evaluating what can be a very costly purchase. People should be informed that when your tailor tells you your coat needs to "break in a bit" for the collar to sit properly on the neck, he is just trying to get you out the door with a substandard product which shouldn't be accepted.

You raise a really excellent point. I've read about this so much - letting the shoulders settle in/break in, etc. Is all of this hogwash? Or does a suit in fact start to look better as it conforms to the wearer? I noticed that the light blue, "slouchy-fit" DB that you posted recently, while new, already has a very fitted, relaxed, almost "broken-in" look already. Any thoughts you have would be appreciated.
post #231 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post
Great thread - I like all 3 to be honest. Something funky is up with the buttoning on Steed #3.

+1

like most of the other posters, i like the steeds the least, but for a different reason; i am not a fan of quarters that fall away from the button point in a straight line. you end up with something too open and airy.

but i also agree that some of the nitpicking here has taken on a life of its own. all things considered, these are all very good.
post #232 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by George View Post
...more like razor wire
For the sake of the jumbles, I hope that you sit on Vol II of the Principia. - B
post #233 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bull View Post
does a suit in fact start to look better as it conforms to the wearer?

A suit will settle a bit, but whether it looks better afterward is a matter of opinion. More often it just looks like it needs a good pressing. However I have seen glaring defects of workmanship excused with a simple "oh it just needs to break in a bit", and that is hogwash, and sadly people have to believe what they are being told.
post #234 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
You don't pin dumbbells to your fronts to weigh them down in th adaptation phase of jacket ownership? - B
I sew lengths of steel chain into the hem. Sorta like Chanel did.
post #235 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bull View Post
You raise a really excellent point. I've read about this so much - letting the shoulders settle in/break in, etc. Is all of this hogwash? Or does a suit in fact start to look better as it conforms to the wearer? I noticed that the light blue, "slouchy-fit" DB that you posted recently, while new, already has a very fitted, relaxed, almost "broken-in" look already. Any thoughts you have would be appreciated.
not to hijack the response that jeffery will hopefully give to your question - but my own experience has been that heavy fabrics like tweeds / flannels do benefit from a bit of breaking in -- but in the body and arms. certainly not in things like the collar that have a very defined interior skeleton and should have been molded into an optimal fit from the beginning. for soft, neapolitan-style tailoring in fine wools, OTOH, i expect to have a perfect fit on day one in the body, and my own experience has been that there is little, if any, evolution in the fit other than the normal relaxing of any fine wool fabric with wear.
post #236 of 301
nvm
post #237 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by OttoSkadelig View Post
but i also agree that some of the nitpicking here has taken on a life of its own. all things considered, these are all good.

+1
post #238 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post
My feelings are a bit mixed on this one. If I were about to shell out several thousand dollars on a camera, for example, I would read up on them first so I knew what I was looking at but there is no dpreview.com equivalent for clothes written by people who know about them. Sometimes I agree that Sator oversteps the boundaries and should shut up about things he doesn't really understand, but at least he and Tutee are attempting to do what nobody in the trade (that I know of) has done and provide some information on evaluating what can be a very costly purchase. People should be informed that when your tailor tells you your coat needs to "break in a bit" for the collar to sit properly on the neck, he is just trying to get you out the door with a substandard product which shouldn't be accepted.
Yes but when you are purchasing the camera you are reading up on the specs, whether it has the features that you require, it's performance compared to others in it's price range, so that you can make an informed choice. What I presume you don't do is delve into the technical aspects of how the camera is manufactured, how it's assembled etc. I agree that you don't need to be a tailor to judge whether a suit fits or not, if the collar stands off your neck it doesn't fit. My point is that there are some, here and elsewhere who offer advice on how to correct fit issues, from a technical perspective whilst never having actually done it. I think that's overstepping the mark. Using a (clumsy) analogy from my own profession, structural engineering. You don't need to be an architect to appriciate whether a building is beautiful or not, nor do you need to be an engineer to marvel at the way the buildings structure seems to be able to defy gravity. However, you do need to be an engineer to understand how it does so. That takes years of training, mentor-ing and study not just reading a book by Timoshenko.
post #239 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post
A suit will settle a bit, but whether it looks better afterward is a matter of opinion. More often it just looks like it needs a good pressing. However I have seen glaring defects of workmanship excused with a simple "oh it just needs to break in a bit", and that is hogwash, and sadly people have to believe what they are being told.

Sounds like any tailor who says anything to imply that an imperfection in fit will fix itself over time with wearing is trying to sell a bill of goods. Very helpful. Thanks.
post #240 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
For the sake of the jumbles, I hope that you sit on Vol II of the Principia. - B
I doubt Bertrand could soothe my lacerated nad's
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Poll: Attolini vs. Rubinacci vs. Steed