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Poll: Attolini vs. Rubinacci vs. Steed - Page 12

post #166 of 301
The video looks like it showcases their RTW and MTM lines

Granted there is a client fitting, but I find it hard to believe this massive assembly line like atmosphere is of a bespoke atelier

Perhaps the OP can tell us about where the fittings for his bespoke Attolini was done?
post #167 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
You're unusually active. - B
That's what she said. - A
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Ay329 View Post
The video looks like it showcases their RTW and MTM lines Granted there is a client fitting, but I find it hard to believe this massive assembly line like atmosphere is of a bespoke atelier Perhaps the OP can tell us about where the fittings for his bespoke Attolini was done?
Agreed!
post #168 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by A Y View Post
Definitely, but the video raised more questions about their custom business than it answered.

Well, whatever it says about the nature of Attolini's bespoke service, the factory is quite a marvel. It looks like they retrofitted a damned aircraft hangar.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Soph View Post
The next time someone sits down with Caesar for a salad, they should inquire about whether he hand pads or outsources on his custom jobs.

I'll watch the video again, but I was under the impression that what we were seeing was their iteration of a custom job.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Ay329 View Post
The video looks like it showcases their RTW and MTM lines

Granted there is a client fitting, but I find it hard to believe this massive assembly line like atmosphere is of a bespoke atelier

Perhaps the OP can tell us about where the fittings for his bespoke Attolini was done?

Why would it be so surprising that a mostly RTW/MTM operation would have an integrated a bespoke service? It's not unheard of for factories to produce garments off of bespoke patterns. Anyway, if Attolini had a small workroom with tailors doing work more intimately, you'd think they would have showed it off.
post #169 of 301
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Ay329 View Post
The video looks like it showcases their RTW and MTM lines

Granted there is a client fitting, but I find it hard to believe this massive assembly line like atmosphere is of a bespoke atelier

Perhaps the OP can tell us about where the fittings for his bespoke Attolini was done?

Fittings (3x per jacket) were done in their tiny, decades-old Naples atelier, which apparently relocated to Via Filangieri a few months ago. My experience in their atelier in no way resembled that shown in the video; it instead felt more authentic than either Rubinacci Milan or Edwin's shared space on Savile Row. Measuring and cutting is done by a 70+ year Sr. Attolini (cousin of Cesare?). Cesare Attolini was there in the store only once in my five or so visits. I gathered that they sometimes perform the cutting in the factory, but not if you're a "good client" or have a difficult fabric. Sewing is done in the factory.
post #170 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by Montesquieu View Post
Fittings (3x per jacket) were done in their tiny, decades-old Naples atelier, which apparently relocated to Via Filangieri a few months ago. My experience in their atelier in no way resembled that shown in the video; it instead felt more authentic than either Rubinacci Milan or Edwin's shared space on Savile Row. Measuring and cutting is done by a 70+ year Sr. Attolini (cousin of Cesare?). Cesare Attolini was there in the store only once in my five or so visits. I gathered that they sometimes perform the cutting in the factory, but not if you're a "good client" or have a difficult fabric. Sewing is done in the factory.

What are their rates for sportcoats and suits?
post #171 of 301
One of the Men's Ex issues from last year had a detailed flow-chart on the relationships between many well known Neapolitan tailors.
post #172 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by maomao1980 View Post
One of the Men's Ex issues from last year had a detailed flow-chart on the relationships between many well known Neapolitan tailors.

Like how they outsource to one another?
post #173 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by maomao1980 View Post
One of the Men's Ex issues from last year had a detailed flow-chart on the relationships between many well known Neapolitan tailors.

I have that issue.

I think at the top of the chart was Giorgio Armani
post #174 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by kolecho View Post
Like how they outsource to one another?

No, just the inbreeding that happens in the world of Italian tailoring.
post #175 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by kolecho View Post
Like how they outsource to one another?

Outsourcing is rare (but by no means non existent, though, 1,000,000-1, eventually, it will be) in Italy. A very small number of tailors in Italy (about 10% of them total, IIRC) do any outsourcing as it is generally 100% against the Italian way of doing things big time when it comes to bespoke tailoring.

When outsourcing is done in Italy (which is only done by tailors that are have been in the business for no more than 25 years), it is a very small amount (about 10%, IIRC) of the manufacturing process of a bespoke product that is outsourced.
post #176 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by OxxfordSJLINY View Post
Outsourcing is rare (but by no means non existent, though, 1,000,000-1, eventually, it will be) in Italy. A very small number of tailors in Italy (about 10% of them total, IIRC) do any outsourcing as it is generally 100% against the Italian way of doing things big time when it comes to bespoke tailoring.

When outsourcing is done in Italy (which is only done by tailors that are have been in the business for no more than 25 years), it is a very small amount (about 10%, IIRC) of the manufacturing process of a bespoke product that is outsourced.
WTF?
post #177 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by iammatt View Post
WTF?

his posts always give me a headache
post #178 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by edmorel View Post
his posts always give me a headache

You are the last one who should talk since all your Panta pants are outsourced, and are thus, "Made for Panta."

- B
post #179 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by maomao1980 View Post
No, just the inbreeding that happens in the world of Italian tailoring.

I think a chart drawn for English tailoring and shoemaking today would be equally incestuous.

--Andre
post #180 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by OxxfordSJLINY View Post
Outsourcing is rare (but by no means non existent, though, 1,000,000-1, eventually, it will be) in Italy. A very small number of tailors in Italy (about 10% of them total, IIRC) do any outsourcing as it is generally 100% against the Italian way of doing things big time when it comes to bespoke tailoring.

When outsourcing is done in Italy (which is only done by tailors that are have been in the business for no more than 25 years), it is a very small amount (about 10%, IIRC) of the manufacturing process of a bespoke product that is outsourced.

Err... I was jesting?
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