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Armani Collezione fit

post #1 of 17
Thread Starter 
I know Armani isn't much loved here but I've been obsessively trying on any suits I can find in 36R/S when I can trying to find ones that work for me. I've tried pretty much every major brand that Saks, NM, Nords, and the designers (Gucci, Prada, etc) and few make such a small suit available in the USA and for me, most still don't fit very well in one way or the other. My best luck has been with the designer Euro stuff by far, I'm 5'7" and ~135lbs so pretty slim - my "problem" is I have very narrow shoulders.

I tried an AC jacket on in 36S and for the first time I felt like I was putting on something I already owned. Perfect shoulders, no tightness in the armpits, buttons up without pulling, etc. Sadly the fabric choice is one I really can't see myself wearing or I'd buy the suit. What I'm curious about is WHY does the AC fit me so well, is there a particular style or cut they use I could be on the lookout for in other brands I may not be aware of?

What do you think is the "value" of an AC suit? I was VERY tempted to buy this one even in a kinda ugly, heavy fabric (I'm in Miami) as it was on sale for $700 + 40% off. To get one in my exact choice I'd probably have to pay full retail - are these suits worth $1,500? Looking at a thread from earlier this year I believe they are full canvas and made by Zegna.

I can post some poor iPhone pics of me in the AC jacket if anyone is curious but I'm not sure they really show much since its the old cameraphone held to a mirror pic.
post #2 of 17
AC offers several models/fits, so you can't judge the fit by the AC label alone.
post #3 of 17
If Armani fits you really well than so be it. They're well constructed garments and I've always found Armani's fabrics to have a great look and feel to them. Don't buy something in a fabric you don't like, you won't wear it. If it fits you really well, you can afford it and you'll wear it a lot, buy it at full retail (can't believe I'm saying that). You're an odd size so you won't find a lot makers doing stuff that fits you.

Another option you have is made-to-measure (MTM) and there are several different makers you could go to for that. I don't know what the prices are like in Miami but you might want to see what Zegna MTM starts at. I have a feeling it will be more than $1500 though.
post #4 of 17
I'm almost the same stats as you and have the same problem, short shoulders (16.5?) So far I've found the best fits are AC, also Z-Zegna Drop 8 model, BB's Fitzgerald. Other makers that do narrow suits are Prada and D&G. other alternatives you might want to try include Pal Zileri if you can find them, and def, check Etro I've found most of the stuff from the usual higher end guys like RLBL Brioni, Canali, etc. too wide. For the record, I also normally avoid Armani, just in general because of the brand, but recently slipped on a A/C 36s sportscoat and was "wowed". It fit GREAT and as you described, it felt like it was made for me, totally comfortable, like a sweater. Nice high armholes, button stance, shoulders, everything. It moved really well. only problem was it was a bit too long, and the retail was about $1000 just for the sportscoat. Why did it fit like that?... not 100% sure. I think it's something to do with a soft shoulder and an overall body shape that long and lean instead of structured+padded up top with big cuts to the waist. When I wear Etro or Z-Zegna for example, it looks like the chest and thighs are wide while the waist is narrowly pinched in, like an hourglass, whereas the AC was just one long slim cut. I'd be curious to hear someone's answer on this with more experience...
post #5 of 17
If you're willing to pay $1500 then I'll point out what should be obvious. Get on a plane and take a vacation in Italy. 46 is hardly a rare size. You'll have plenty of choice in full price, seasonal saldi(sales) or even the various outlets. I'm guessing you aren't looking at only one suit/jacket. I'm also guessing you'll find everything from sweaters to shirts to pants easier to find here. All for the price of a vacation.
post #6 of 17
If you have deep pockets you might want to look at Dior, they always have pretty narrow shoulders.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nicola View Post
If you're willing to pay $1500 then I'll point out what should be obvious.

Get on a plane and take a vacation in Italy. 46 is hardly a rare size.

The problem is that the shoulders on size 36 jackets can vary widly, from Dior where they're sometimes as narrow as 16", to Zegna jackets I've tried on which must have had shoulders at least 18" wide; that's a huge difference.
post #7 of 17
AC is all I wear because it also fits me perfectly. But it is not fully canvassed but is still a well made garment. I have fully canvassed garments by Samuelsohn, Canali and E. Zegna and I still prefer my Armanis. Also like someone mentioned Armani Collezioni does MTM, so while you would be paying retail you still get a huge selection of fabrics that is guaranteed to fit because you have already seen what the OTR garment fits like. Obviously paying retail sucks but so does wearing something that doesn`t fit.
post #8 of 17
Thread Starter 
Bartolo, the AC were for Saks, does that help? I tried on two suits in 36S and they both fit the same.

Master Classer - totally! I hadn't thought of trying a BB suit since I think of them as "trad"/sacks. Etro only offers 38 according to their local store but I did see a FS post which says they have a 17" shoulder? I'll have to try one on locally and see. Have not been able to find Zegna locally in 36 to try. I think Pal Z are available from Yoox so I'll keep an eye out.

Nicola, $1,500 does not equal a trip to Italy to buy clothes. I'm looking at vacations actually and tickets to Europe are running $6-800 at best... but trust me if I had a spare $5k it would be an option.

Sanguis, totally! Most of the brands favored here do not carry, in the US at least, 36 and the 38s I have tried on at the behest of the sales personnel (oh, it fits great - just a little tailoring!) have pretty much all been the proveriable "dad's jacket", I just swim in them. Slim fit? HAH!
post #9 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sanguis Mortuum View Post



The problem is that the shoulders on size 36 jackets can vary widly, from Dior where they're sometimes as narrow as 16", to Zegna jackets I've tried on which must have had shoulders at least 18" wide; that's a huge difference.

Yes but all the brands stock 46 in Italy. At least I've never seen anybody who doesn't. A person can easily find stuff for deep discount during the sale season.

Aren't the Valentino stuff narrow shouldered?
post #10 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by Icehawk View Post

Nicola, $1,500 does not equal a trip to Italy to buy clothes. I'm looking at vacations actually and tickets to Europe are running $6-800 at best... but trust me if I had a spare $5k it would be an option.

But if you come during sale season then you won't have to pay full price. Your size is common. It's the small end of common but the shops stock it. If you're already taking a vacation to Europe then make a list and spend some time shopping.
post #11 of 17
Some things to point out: yes, try the BB Fitzgerald in 36, I was pleasantly surprised. I thought Etro did a 36... you might want to double check that. Otherwise their 38 then is pretty slim, I just remember them working pretty well. re: Zegna, not mainline but their Z line, and make sure it's the "drop 8" model, not the "city" which has a drop 7 but overall larger body everywhere as well. Zileri - I believe they have SEVERAL different bodies, so be aware before ordering. I found one of theirs in a 36s and it fit great! not sure which body it was though
post #12 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by Icehawk View Post
My best luck has been with the designer Euro stuff by far

I'm a 36R and am always very pleased with Caruso. Love the soft shoulders and high armholes.
I understood they sell in the US at Neiman Marcus?
post #13 of 17
Has anyone had trouble with AC pants? They always end up being ridiculously huge on me to the point where I don't really think they can be recut. I always end up with a well fitted jacket and fat pants.
post #14 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Master-Classter View Post
re: Zegna, not mainline but their Z line, and make sure it's the "drop 8" model, not the "city" which has a drop 7 but overall larger body everywhere as well.

Makes sense as I checked my notes (I keep a list of everything I try on) and Zegna 36S "too full in chest, husky". Same notes as HF and M Kors.

Etro's store says the same that many others do like Boss - they do not carry 36 in the US. I have seen Boss at NMLC in 36 though so go figure. I'll check the BB Fitz next time I'm there and see if they have a 36, it can't hurt to at least try it on.

I did not try on the AC pants, I should probably give that a go - hell I didn't even look to see if they were pleated or flat I was just happy the coat fit.

Caruso @ NM? I will ask but in previous visits I had not been shown them.

Regarding Italy - well I use Yoox, does that count a little bit?
post #15 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by beansprouts1 View Post
Has anyone had trouble with AC pants? They always end up being ridiculously huge on me to the point where I don't really think they can be recut. I always end up with a well fitted jacket and fat pants.

That's their style. I think they drape nicely and have a signature look. The key is that you need to buy pants that are a size small on the waist and let them out to the proper size. The legs will drape perfectly.
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