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Why Lesser has some hegemony on Savile row ? - Page 19

post #271 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by George View Post
There are two types of Flannel.

[...]

There are worsted Flannels, you can always tell them by looking closely at the cloth as you'll see a subtle twill weave (diagonal ribs) under the cloth nap, which becomes more prominent with wear.

Hope this helps

Is this a worsted flannel?




Or is it a woolen flannel, like this one:

post #272 of 280
Looks like woolen to me.
post #273 of 280
Thank you, Manton. It's smoother/softer than the glen check, like it's been shaved, if that makes sense.
post #274 of 280
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NOBD View Post
Thank you, Manton. It's smoother/softer than the glen check, like it's been shaved, if that makes sense.

You will recognize the difference very quickly...

Woolen flannel has a different feel than worsted flannel.
post #275 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by lasbar View Post
You will recognize the difference very quickly...

Woolen flannel has a different feel than worsted flannel.

I don't think I've ever seen or felt worsted flannel if the chalkstripe is indeed a woolen as well. I prefer 'the real stuff' anyway.
post #276 of 280
OK, 19 pages of posts is about a dozen pages too many for me. But for what it's worth, I was visiting William Field today in Georgetown (DC). He's the best bespoke tailor in the city (which admittedly isn't saying much) and pretty well regarded by those who've used him. He has done Presidents and routinely works for Senators, diplomats, and others used to Savile Row work and is frequently reported to be the equal of many of the better cutters there. Last time I was there, for instance, I ran into a former Senator-turned-lobbyist and we struck up a conversation about clothes. Mr. Big Shot said he's got a pretty good closet of different Savile Row suits but for the most part relies on Bill for convenience sake and swears his work is the equal or better of his London suits. I haven't used Bill for bespoken work yet, but he does all of my alterations and is great (albeit expensive). Anyway, I asked Bill straight-away about Lesser this afternoon given my notice of this thread. The man says it is his favorite cloth hands down - the best there is up and down the weight classes. Thinks Harrison gives them a run for the money for heavy flannels though, and for those fabrics at least, Harrison is probably better according to him. He has little experience with Fox (a favorite of FNB's if I recall correctly). He has favorable opinions about Smith and has a fondness for some smaller firms that I have never heard of. Others really depend upon the specific cloth at issue. Today, for instance, Bill was wearing a killer 13 oz Oxford grey double-breasted serge with a very rich nap. Awesome cloth ... and it came from a rather small firm. He had a bale on hand and man, it looked wonderful! Of course, he could be some profiteering weasel on the take, but somehow I doubt that.
post #277 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Cogburn View Post
OK, 19 pages of posts is about a dozen pages too many for me. But for what it's worth, I was visiting William Field today in Georgetown (DC). He's the best bespoke tailor in the city (which admittedly isn't saying much) and pretty well regarded by those who've used him. He has done Presidents and routinely works for Senators, diplomats, and others used to Savile Row work and is frequently reported to be the equal of many of the better cutters there. Last time I was there, for instance, I ran into a former Senator-turned-lobbyist and we struck up a conversation about clothes. Mr. Big Shot said he's got a pretty good closet of different Savile Row suits but for the most part relies on Bill for convenience sake and swears his work is the equal or better of his London suits. I haven't used Bill for bespoken work yet, but he does all of my alterations and is great (albeit expensive). Anyway, I asked Bill straight-away about Lesser this afternoon given my notice of this thread. The man says it is his favorite cloth hands down - the best there is up and down the weight classes. Thinks Harrison gives them a run for the money for heavy flannels though, and for those fabrics at least, Harrison is probably better according to him. He has little experience with Fox (a favorite of FNB's if I recall correctly). He has favorable opinions about Smith and has a fondness for some smaller firms that I have never heard of. Others really depend upon the specific cloth at issue. Today, for instance, Bill was wearing a killer 13 oz Oxford grey double-breasted serge with a very rich nap. Awesome cloth ... and it came from a rather small firm. He had a bale on hand and man, it looked wonderful! Of course, he could be some profiteering weasel on the take, but somehow I doubt that.
If you like it go for it. Personally, I wouldn't buy a cloth just because a tailor or someone on an internet forum said it's the bees knees. It not about what's 'best' for them, it's about what's 'best' for you. After all, it is you who is wearing it, not them. There is no holy Grail of cloth.
post #278 of 280
Of course. But if I want to buy a 10-12 oz. marine blue nailhead, for instance, I'm going to have lots of cloth companies to choose from. In a situation like this, I'm going to take the tailor's advice about which is the better cloth.
post #279 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Cogburn View Post
Of course. But if I want to buy a 10-12 oz. marine blue nailhead, for instance, I'm going to have lots of cloth companies to choose from. In a situation like this, I'm going to take the tailor's advice about which is the better cloth.
A reasonable course of action.
post #280 of 280
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by George View Post
If you like it go for it. Personally, I wouldn't buy a cloth just because a tailor or someone on an internet forum said it's the bees knees. It not about what's 'best' for them, it's about what's 'best' for you. After all, it is you who is wearing it, not them.

There is no holy Grail of cloth.

I fully agree with George....

Horses for courses...

We all love different textures and patterns making sartorial life interesting...
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