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Why Lesser has some hegemony on Savile row ?

post #1 of 280
Thread Starter 
I have recently used a Lesser Golden bale fabric for one of my suit and i did notice their hegemony on the row.

I have been also offered a Lesser fabric at Norton while Karl Matthew was offering some Smiths woolens ...

Is there any historical reason behind this commercial hegemony ?

I'm interested in any information regarding this issue...
post #2 of 280
There are lots of reasons, but primarily, it is the Row snubbing Film Noir Buff in favor of Manton.


- B
post #3 of 280
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
There are lots of reasons, but primarily, it is the Row snubbing Film Noir Buff in favor of Manton.


- B

FNB is obsessed with Harrisons....I vaguely remember reading a very long essay (even by his standard) about them..

City versus West End and other Buffisms...
post #4 of 280
Pretty much ever SR tailor I have ever talked to believes that Lesser fabric is the best cloth there is, period. Since they actually have to sew it, there must be something behind their opinion.
post #5 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by lasbar View Post
FNB is obsessed with Harrisons....I vaguely remember reading a very long essay (even by his standard) about them.. City versus West End and other Buffisms...
I think you'll find he likes both. He wrote an essay about Lessers as I recall. Harrisons tends to have a more contemporary finish to it than does Lessers. Both merchants are excellent, but my own personnel favourite is Minnis. Why does Lessers have such a hegemony on the Row. One could be cynical and suggest...
post #6 of 280
I don't know what you are insinuating, but if you ask around you will find that virutally all the tailors at Lesser's poor business sense and marketing and worry that the firm will go out of business. That is hardly indicative of payoffs, bribes, kickbacks or whatever.

They are known to charge pretty much the most of the mainstream merchants (Scabal diamond dust and super-dupers notwithstanding). SR either passes that cost along to the clients (making the Lesser upcharge disadvantageous from a sales perspective) or doesn't (in which case the tailor eats the differential). Both of those facts would also seem to undermine whatever point you were trying to insinuate.
post #7 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post
Pretty much ever SR tailor I have ever talked to believes that Lesser fabric is the best cloth there is, period. Since they actually have to sew it, there must be something behind their opinion.

[vox]What about Modern English Tailor David Reeves? He was quite dismissive of Lessers:[/vox]
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post
I don't like lesser at all. Cheap cloth peddled by cheap tailors to improve mark up and profit. Why use £20 a meter cloth on a suit that is made for you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post
I should have put the quote in. I was replying to your question a while back about experience with the heavier lesser cloth. Smiths is just as bad. There's no need to be upset if you ask peoples opinions you will get some people disagreeing with you. I am sorry but I really don't like Smiths and Lesser. I have had things made in them because of the price and because of there lauded durability but in all honesty I find they wear out faster than the luxury cloths like Dormeuil, Scabal and Loro Piana. They didn't wear through but they picked up bad shines at which point I got rid.

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post
A lot of the cloths you talk about aren't very luxurious they are entry level Bespoke cloths wherever you go in England. I started stocking Lesser because all the igents wanted it but when you compare it to amadeus or royal opera nobody buys it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post
Smiths and Lesser are not luxury cloths. They get pushed by tailors to achieve good margins. Sorry but it's true. Think about it you know it makes sense.

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post
Well I do agree with you that Loro Piana is overated. I only stock it because clients demand it. Still prefer them to Smiths and lesser.

That said, I am having A&S make me a Lesser tropical wool suit.
post #8 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by RJman View Post
That said, I am having A&S make me a Lesser tropical wool suit.
Will you be requesting divots, or are those reserved only for luxury cloths?
post #9 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
Will you be requesting divots, or are those reserved only for luxury cloths?

For all I know they may come included. Where is Schneidergott? I believe A&S were his... downfall.

Also, go bug Matt... I am not sure about your latest crush on me... you don't speak French and I don't know what to think about that.
post #10 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by RJman View Post
For all I know they may come included. Where is Schneidergott? I believe A&S were his... downfall.

oooh. Someone should do a YouTube with Hitler being told that his new A&S coat doesn't fit.
post #11 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
Will you be requesting divots, or are those reserved only for luxury cloths?

whnay. quarters are pretty cool.


- B
post #12 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
Will you be requesting divots, or are those reserved only for luxury cloths?

I believe A&S have a hegemony on divots.

--Andre
post #13 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post
oooh. Someone should do a YouTube with Hitler being told that his new A&S coat doesn't fit.

Still in the cards ... Actually it was going to involve Hitler ordering a black suit and being told that you don't approve.

--Andre
post #14 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by A Y View Post
Still in the cards ... Actually it was going to involve Hitler ordering a black suit and being told that you don't approve.

--Andre

Really the possibilties are endless. I am on the edge of my seat.
post #15 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by RJman View Post
Also, go bug Matt... I am not sure about your latest crush on me... you don't speak French and I don't know what to think about that.

I speak Mandarin, the true language of love.
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