How about shoulder and chest padding? Materials differ? What should I be looking for in my custom jacket. I have a company in Toronto making Made to Measure with great hand stitching but I'm unsure about what to look for in the shoulder and chest with respect to materials used.
P.S. Is it ok to call a Made to Measure suit custom in your view? The company I use...uses certain silhouettes as a base but we work together to get the best fitting jacket and pant on my clients which involves a lot of considerations. The only thing that is missing is a client's own personal pattern. I push them to go beyond what they are normally used to...
I suggest, more or less waist suppression, higher or lower shoulders etc etc.