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Quality Suit Construction ~ Mediocre and the Best - Page 2

post #16 of 21
Thread Starter 
You guys are something else. Thank you.

How about shoulder and chest padding? Materials differ? What should I be looking for in my custom jacket. I have a company in Toronto making Made to Measure with great hand stitching but I'm unsure about what to look for in the shoulder and chest with respect to materials used.

P.S. Is it ok to call a Made to Measure suit custom in your view? The company I use...uses certain silhouettes as a base but we work together to get the best fitting jacket and pant on my clients which involves a lot of considerations. The only thing that is missing is a client's own personal pattern. I push them to go beyond what they are normally used to...
I suggest, more or less waist suppression, higher or lower shoulders etc etc.

Thanks!
post #17 of 21
Thread Starter 
You guys are something else. Thank you.

How about shoulder and chest padding? Materials differ? What should I be looking for in my custom jacket. I have a company in Toronto making Made to Measure with great hand stitching but I'm unsure about what to look for in the shoulder and chest with respect to materials used.

P.S. Is it ok to call a Made to Measure suit custom in your view? The company I use...uses certain silhouettes as a base but we work together to get the best fitting jacket and pant on my clients which involves a lot of considerations. The only thing that is missing is a client's own personal pattern. I push them to go beyond what they are normally used to...
I suggest, more or less waist suppression, higher or lower shoulders etc etc.

Thanks!
post #18 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton
I don't know of any tailors in the US who make an entire suit by hand. There are some in Italy. In the US, the king of handwork is Nicolosi. I believe his jackets are entirely handmade.
I think the French Max Eveline produces a hand-made garment. Camps DeLuca, I do not know. Perhaps the old Camps tailor, Gabriel Gonzalez does a hand garment.
post #19 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by oscarthewild
The thread mentions construction and construction is important. But in my opinion, cut/fit is very important too. If your tailor did not cut the jacket to accomodate your protuding chest or whatever, all the handwork in the world will not make it as comfortable as a jacket that has been cut right for YOU! -

Also, "fit affects wear." If it doesn't fit right, it is likely to wear out faster.
post #20 of 21
To Damonallan:

I would not know what goes inside the guts of a suit. I would not know whether Acme Company makes a better canvas than AAA Company. And I do not if Southwick uses Apex Company canvas which is used by the best of the best bespoke tailors. I trust this arcane information to my suitmakers.

I think that after experience in buying and wearing suits by certain makers you get a feel as to what is quality and which makers have a consistent level of quality. Much of this is trial and error.

The term "custom" is used for a garment which is custom ordered and is not ready to wear. "Custom" can run the gamut from a stock special (where the maker runs-up its standard suit in a special fabric ordered by the customer) to MTM (where the maker makes adjustments to a block pattern based on the customer's measurements) to bespoke (where the maker makes an individual pattern to the customer's measurements). Therefore, the use of custom is proper in your case.
post #21 of 21

Hi Oscar the wild congratulations. I know this is an old thread however you have hit the nail on the head, Cut is the important and essential thing so much so that you must have been talking with a west end english tailor. This is exactly the best suit philosophy. I have not seen anyone else on Style Forum with this view

cheersĀ 

Brendon

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