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Shoe Damage Report & Shoe P0rn Central - Part II - Page 620

post #9286 of 19808
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcobinad View Post

Few pictures of my shoe collection. You guys will notice my shoes look really similar. I stick to traditional colours. I need to upgrade to other colours this year!
Enjoy!

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What are the loafers second from the top (calf/suede)?
post #9287 of 19808
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gdot View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post



The big difference u don't mention (AFAIK- and could be dated info) is that the benchgrades are made with French calf, and the Handgrades with German.  German calf is recognized as superior.

You probably are correct. Do you know in what ways the German calf is superior?
Quote:
Originally Posted by banis View Post

Lattanzi
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His shoes are somewhat more symphatetic than crazy Silvano.
post #9288 of 19808
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post

is there such a big difference beside the open channeled sole?

Yes. I believe they are more particular about the skins. I also have a fantatical love of the closed channel sole. (I know that it is irrational)

I did not read the other responses prior to putting mine in--agree leathers are better for the handgrade. That said, tough to beat the C&J bench grade shoe. I think the 341 last creates a great workhorse business shoe.
post #9289 of 19808
Quote:
Originally Posted by isshinryu101 View Post

Not much love for the Trickers in most of the Top collections i've seen. Not that they're "disliked", but I think they are really at the top of their game in the Country Shoe department... I wanna see more posted here... especially if anyone has any older pairs.

I can't help but register my agreement with my erstwhile foe--and erstwhile friend. I think Trickers get a bad rap here. For those with a standard foot Trickers do not work so well. If you have a wider foot Trickers are a great shoe. I bought a pair, they did not fit well, but they were of high quality.
post #9290 of 19808
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post

no. i'm by no means an leather expert. i have a guy who consults me, when i feel the need. he told me a few things, though.
what he told me is, that you cannot generalize between italy, germany, france and austria. it depends almost on the tannery.
a little anecdote: a friend of mine, who had some shoes made at JL St. James was directed into the leather chamber by mr. lobb. one of his favorite leathers was from a small producer in austria. he didn't tell my friend the name. unfortunately, i haven't seen this pair yet.

I have spoken with a few tanners and a few shoemakers and what I have learned is the two biggest things that matter with leathers are the diet of the calf and the amount of sun shine they see during their life. Calf from mountaineous regions have softer hides do to the shade available. To me, this validates your Austrian thesis. Nothing beats a drive in those mountain passes in Austria--ok, skiing does.
post #9291 of 19808
Same mountain passes cross over into Italy. And they are indeed among the most spectacular places on earth. Teh dolomites, they rulez! As do Montasio and Mangret.

And way up high the animals live in unfenced environments - no barbed wire equals prettier skin as well. Although perhaps the finest hides would come from calves raised for veal in those horrible stalls in which they never see the light of day. But I hope not - would really bust me to find that out.
post #9292 of 19808
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post

what he told me is, that you cannot generalize between italy, germany, france and austria. it depends almost on the tannery.

This makes perfect sense to me.
post #9293 of 19808
2qippgh.jpg
ravello monk
argyle otc
post #9294 of 19808
Quote:
Originally Posted by Burton View Post

I also have a fantatical love of the closed channel sole. (I know that it is irrational)

no. the advantage of wood pegged. it's always closed, hehe. no pun intended
Quote:
Originally Posted by Burton View Post

I did not read the other responses prior to putting mine in--agree leathers are better for the handgrade. That said, tough to beat the C&J bench grade shoe. I think the 341 last creates a great workhorse business shoe.

you know my love for chisel dizzle. this one, i like. especially in dark suede, where the contours are not so obvious.
post #9295 of 19808
Quote:
Originally Posted by Burton View Post

I have spoken with a few tanners and a few shoemakers and what I have learned is the two biggest things that matter with leathers are the diet of the calf and the amount of sun shine they see during their life. Calf from mountaineous regions have softer hides do to the shade available. To me, this validates your Austrian thesis. Nothing beats a drive in those mountain passes in Austria--ok, skiing does.

like a good wine.

next time you're here. please let me know.
post #9296 of 19808
Quote:
Originally Posted by Burton View Post

I can't help but register my agreement with my erstwhile foe--and erstwhile friend. I think Trickers get a bad rap here. For those with a standard foot Trickers do not work so well. If you have a wider foot Trickers are a great shoe. I bought a pair, they did not fit well, but they were of high quality.

certainly. it's the look. they have this clumsy vibe. especially their country range. i agree, it's hard to find a boot in this price range. independent of your destination.
post #9297 of 19808
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post

like a good wine.
next time you're here. please let me know.

I will certainly do that.
post #9298 of 19808
Cliff Roberts Bespoke shoes - last and shoe trees by Springline

Hi all. I've recently received my Bespoke shoes from Cliff Roberts. I'm over the moon with the quality! Enjoy biggrin.gif

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post #9299 of 19808
Pengranger...that shoe exudes elegance. Way cool

RJMan had Tony Gaziano (while at Edward Green) build a similar green design...but yours adds the faux lacing...which IMHO, completes it

And the antiqued 3 piece shoe trees look awesome

The color of the shoe tree makes me wonder is this a navy leather or black?
post #9300 of 19808
Late 2011 I sold all my Aldens (six pairs of shell codovan) with the exception of one pair. These boots drove me crazy until I had them modified. I don't understand why people here like the Alden commando sole. It causes the shoe to curl and dirt and grime get it in between the rubber overlay and the leather sole--don't get it. Anyway, Nick at B. Nelson modified these for me and I think I will keep them.

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