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Shoe Damage Report & Shoe P0rn Central - Part II - Page 542

post #8116 of 16457
11/28/11 at 4:58am
Part of the difference in contemporary leathers is also the chemicals used in dying. Until the 20th century the composition of Aniline dyes contained actual Aniline, which is toxic. Today they use synthetic dyes which produce the deep, rich, aniline effect but are less toxic.
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post #8117 of 16457
11/28/11 at 6:30am
Less time in the tanning pits is not an necessarily an "improvement."The best soling leathers in the world spend up to 12 months or more in the pits. Nevertheless most modern tanneries/finishers aim/strive for less time from start to finish.

Aniline dyes are still toxic regardless of where the dyestuff comes from. Modern aniline dyes derive their colours from coal tar derivatives and they are carried/solved in highly toxic chemicals. Toxic to the environment, toxic to the chemists, toxic to the person using the dye..

The best and most distinguishing characteristic of aniline dye is its ability to penetrate the dense grain of the leather. The very best leathers will be "struck through" --meaning that the dye will penetrate from grain to flesh with none of the characteristic "chrome blue" colour in the center that marks the next grades down.

Aniline dyes are also "transparent". Natural flaws, if any, on the surface will show. This is different from non-aniline leathers which are finished with an opaque "paint job" to finalize the colour.

Good aniline dyed leather allows you to "look into" the leather...there is a depth and a three-dimensionality to aniline leathers that is absent in surface only finishes.
Edited by DWFII - 11/28/11 at 7:02am
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post #8118 of 16457
11/28/11 at 6:48am

My current work stable. Missing is a pair of Church´s tassels. 

Upper left. Black C&J Hallam. Upper right Dark brown C&J Lowndes.

Lower left, Burgundy penny loafers from New & Lingwood. Lower right, Alden tassels Cordovan #8.

 

Work.JPG

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post #8119 of 16457
11/28/11 at 7:14am
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

Less time in the tanning pits is not an necessarily an "improvement."The best soling leathers in the world spend up to 12 months or more in the pits. Nevertheless most modern tanneries/finishers aim/strive for less time from start to finish.
Aniline dyes are still toxic regardless of where the dyestuff comes from. Modern aniline dyes derive their colours from coal tar derivatives and they are carried/solved in highly toxic chemicals. Toxic to the environment, toxic to the chemists, toxic to the person using the dye..
The best and most distinguishing characteristic of aniline dye is its ability to penetrate the dense grain of the leather. The very best leathers will be "struck through" --meaning that the dye will penetrate from grain to flesh with none of the characteristic "chrome blue" colour in the center that marks the next grades down.
Aniline dyes are also "transparent". Natural flaws, if any, on the surface will show. This is different from non-aniline leathers which are finished with an opaque "paint job" to finalize the colour.
Good aniline dyed leather allows you to "look into" the leather...there is a depth and a three-dimensionality to aniline leathers that is absent in surface only finishes.

I am curious if there is any benefit to using aniline powder mixed with cream polishes for more permanent color depositing?
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post #8120 of 16457
11/28/11 at 7:40am
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

I am curious if there is any benefit to using aniline powder mixed with cream polishes for more permanent color depositing?

I am not privy to the processes for making shoe creams but I suspect something very like that is done to make coloured shoe creams.

That said, there is not a lot of dye in a cream (just enough to dye your fingers if you apply it "by hand" biggrin.gif.

Remember that aniline dyes are 'transparent," so while you may not see a lot of colour change with a single application of cream, over time the dye will strike. For instance if you use a brun nuit cream on a cognac leather, the leather will change colour. Slowly...but depending on the cream, more or less irreversibly.
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post #8121 of 16457
11/28/11 at 7:45am

Does anyone know who makes the black cordovan double monk for Tommy Hilfiger?

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post #8122 of 16457
11/28/11 at 7:46am
Yes, I have noticed that even with wax polish over time the color does set in. If you try and glob it on all at once you get a messy, streaky build-up. I guess the brushing, buffing, re-application, conditioning and such picks up loose polish and color while slowly letting the color set in.
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post #8123 of 16457
11/28/11 at 8:16am
Bally Scribes , Cross poast from Rock your Shoes, Socks, Trou, threak.

765

Too big for me (A roomy US 8.5D). But they sure are sweet!
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post #8124 of 16457
11/28/11 at 8:24am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Burton View Post

I agree. Very nice shoes but, for some inexplicable reason, JL seems to think they look better with extra material that no one wants or needs.

I am going to see if JL can shorten and then restitch the strap, so that it won't be so long.

-LR
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post #8125 of 16457
11/28/11 at 8:25am
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Yes, I have noticed that even with wax polish over time the color does set in. If you try and glob it on all at once you get a messy, streaky build-up. I guess the brushing, buffing, re-application, conditioning and such picks up loose polish and color while slowly letting the color set in.

The conditioners and waxes in the creams and polishes also have a masking effect. Aniline dye in any concentration will strike a lot faster on dry leather than on leather that has been oiled or waxed...the same concept applies with creams. The dye is floating in the oils and waxes.
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post #8126 of 16457
11/28/11 at 8:57am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gdot View Post

Bally Scribes , Cross poast from Rock your Shoes, Socks, Trou, threak.
765
Too big for me (A roomy US 8.5D). But they sure are sweet!

Bally Scribe are the most underrated shoes on SF!! Nice looking and very well constructed.
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post #8127 of 16457
11/28/11 at 9:32am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ljrcustom View Post

I am going to see if JL can shorten and then restitch the strap, so that it won't be so long.
-LR

Not sure I would go to that length (pardon the pun) but I think the shoe would be enhanced by a shorter strap.
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post #8128 of 16457
11/28/11 at 6:28pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post


This shoe style is also known as a “d’Annunzio”, named after the Italian poet-fascist-lover.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gabriele_d'Annunzio

A dandy if there ever was one (as the clothing collection in his museum reveals)

http://www.gqitalia.it/show/lifestyle/2011/5/gli-abiti-a-luci-rosse-e-gli-accessori-da-dandy-hot-di-gabriele-d-annunzio-spiegato-al-vittoriale-da-giordano-bruno-guerri

On a side note, you know what sucks ass? That I was feeling pretty content with my life until I just realized that I will never be remembered as a "poet-fascist-lover". frown.gif
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post #8129 of 16457
11/28/11 at 6:31pm
2ltofad.jpg
ravello lwb
argyles otc
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post #8130 of 16457
11/29/11 at 12:17am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jhcam8 View Post

WOW - where's your YouTube showing your technique?

Here is the link for the video : http://www.styleforum.net/t/228153/the-official-shoe-care-thread-tutorials-photos-etc/585#post_4990399
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