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Shoe Damage Report & Shoe P0rn Central - Part II - Page 433

post #6481 of 20755
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post


I don't know how much difference it would make at this heel height but the shoe with less toe-spring (up to a point) will crease more and more heavily than the shoe with toe spring. I've always liked a last with a small toe spring--it makes a very nice looking shoe. But there is a reason for toe spring.

I attribute this to the reason why many girl's leather boots even when not cared for very well stay wearable for a very long time without cracking. The higher heel and toe spring pretty much makes them not bend nearly as much as a typical man's shoe. Would you agree?
post #6482 of 20755
frommer - can you teach us more about toe springs? thanks
post #6483 of 20755
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThinkDerm View Post

can you teach us more about toe springs? thanks

Well, I don't know. I have never had to try to explain it before...nor given it much thought. But....

Toe spring is employed on lasts and in shoes for a number of reasons but one of the main ones is to reduce the amount of creasing in the forepart of the shoe.

The foot has a range of motions it must go through as a step is initiated and then completed. The final stage of any step is pushing off from the toe. At that stage, the foot is fundamentally "hinged" at the treadline--the "joint." If the forepart of the shoe is already in a "bent"/flexed position then the shoe will not need to crease as much as if the shoe is flat.

Theoretically, the higher the heel, the less toe spring is needed simply because raising the heel puts the foot into a a flexed position even before the step is taken.

Too much toe spring and the foot may feel uncomfortable...at least initially...and the shoe will look awkward. Too little and the vamp creases inordinately.

And that's the important part. Creasing makes the leather rub against itself and eventually, especially if the shoe is not maintained/kept clean, increases the risk of cracking in the creases.

Just call me "DW."
post #6484 of 20755
Quote:
Originally Posted by T4phage View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cravate_Noire View Post


This doenst make too much sense
to you
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cravate_Noire View Post

the clumsiness of the lasts/designs is pretty personal .
this is true
such as the loveliness of thier 'screwdriver' last
very reminiscent of santoni's snounts



No, that really does not make sense, you are trying to push your personal oppinion as truth here.
You even ditched out Santoni here (what made C&A smile, so good job! He said to give you an easy time as you have a really deep dislike for anything from Vienna; I guess that is not only limited to fritzl wink.gif )

You can have better or worse contruction and finish.
But you can not have per se ugly designs and lasts which are always ugly and to everyone with a bit of understanding, at least not within the limits of EG and StC.
Of course an item one judge's as ugly become irrelevant, despite any better or worse contruction compared to another one, but that is still very personal.
Srewdriver is redundant to me as well btw.
post #6485 of 20755
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post


I attribute this to the reason why many girl's leather boots even when not cared for very well stay wearable for a very long time without cracking. The higher heel and toe spring pretty much makes them not bend nearly as much as a typical man's shoe. Would you agree?

Very much so.
post #6486 of 20755
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cravate_Noire View Post




No, that really does not make sense, you are trying to push your personal oppinion as truth here.
You even ditched out Santoni here (what made C&A smile, so good job! He said to give you an easy time as you have a really deep dislike for anything from Vienna; I guess that is not only limited to fritzl wink.gif )

You can have better or worse contruction and finish.
But you can not have per se ugly designs and lasts which are always ugly and to everyone with a bit of understanding, at least not within the limits of EG and StC.
Of course an item one judge's as ugly become irrelevant, despite any better or worse contruction compared to another one, but that is still very personal.
Srewdriver is redundant to me as well btw.


lol
give it your best shot
it matters none

of course it is an opinion
as is yours
unless you think yours otherwise

crispins:
losts of fugly designs
and some clumsy lasts
but handwelted

eg:
lots of nice designs
and lots of nice lasts
but machine welted

now if how you extrapolate ur
conclusions
means you need moar
engrish prease
Edited by T4phage - 8/3/11 at 2:15pm
post #6487 of 20755
Quote:
Originally Posted by T4phage View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cravate_Noire View Post




No, that really does not make sense, you are trying to push your personal oppinion as truth here.
You even ditched out Santoni here (what made C&A smile, so good job! He said to give you an easy time as you have a really deep dislike for anything from Vienna; I guess that is not only limited to fritzl wink.gif )

You can have better or worse contruction and finish.
But you can not have per se ugly designs and lasts which are always ugly and to everyone with a bit of understanding, at least not within the limits of EG and StC.
Of course an item one judge's as ugly become irrelevant, despite any better or worse contruction compared to another one, but that is still very personal.
Srewdriver is redundant to me as well btw.


lol
give it your best shot
it matters none

of course it is an opinion
as is yours
unless you think yours otherwise

crispins:
losts of fugly designs
and some clumsy lasts
but handlasted

eg:
lots of nice designs
and lots of nice lasts
but machine welted

now if how you extrapolate ur
conclusions
means you need moar
engrish prease



No fritzl?
post #6488 of 20755
Quote:
Originally Posted by HORNS View Post


I'm not familiar with EG enough, so my opinion is really limited to the few I've seen/held in person (not worn) and what I've seen on here and online, like LeatherSoul. That being said, I don't remember any particular EG shoe that reaches the level of refinement that is shown in the St. Crispins at hand.

that's what i said...
post #6489 of 20755
Quote:
Originally Posted by T4phage View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cravate_Noire View Post




No, that really does not make sense, you are trying to push your personal oppinion as truth here.
You even ditched out Santoni here (what made C&A smile, so good job! He said to give you an easy time as you have a really deep dislike for anything from Vienna; I guess that is not only limited to fritzl wink.gif )

You can have better or worse contruction and finish.
But you can not have per se ugly designs and lasts which are always ugly and to everyone with a bit of understanding, at least not within the limits of EG and StC.
Of course an item one judge's as ugly become irrelevant, despite any better or worse contruction compared to another one, but that is still very personal.
Srewdriver is redundant to me as well btw.


lol
give it your best shot
it matters none

of course it is an opinion
as is yours
unless you think yours otherwise

crispins:
losts of fugly designs
and some clumsy lasts
but handlasted

eg:
lots of nice designs
and lots of nice lasts
but machine welted

now if how you extrapolate ur
conclusions
means you need moar
engrish prease

I think EG are handlasted too wink.gif
post #6490 of 20755
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cravate_Noire View Post


I think EG are handlasted too wink.gif

Not the toe.
post #6491 of 20755
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cravate_Noire View Post


I think EG are handlasted too wink.gif

good one

and edited for the catch
post #6492 of 20755
Quote:
Originally Posted by Newcomer View Post


I guess with Saint Crispins you just need to be wary of the last you are ordering the shoe on and the style. I have seen some very elegant lasts from SC though.

I have only ordered the classic last from Saint Crispins not a fan of the screwdriver last, hopefully SC will develop more elegant last in the future
Quote:
Originally Posted by NORE View Post



BTW, WTF gets a double sole on Oundles?????

smile.gif

I wanted the Oundles to wear with jeans and chinos. I didn't realise EG can do a 1.5 sole to a single sole as per slewfoot mention in a few post back. You can say I have buyer's remorse.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HORNS View Post


You're right to a degree, assuming that the whole intention of the EG posted in comparison was intended to look more full, chunky, "toothsome". To me, the St. Crispin posted has a more elegant shoe-to-heel ratio and the bevelling and narrowing of the waist is something that can be done by EG as well.


That wasn't my intention to show EG was a more chunky, it was to show the difference in the sole thickness as slewfoot was asking about . It's even more evident when you wear the Saint Crispins, the waist treatment just hugs the arch firmly something I haven't experience with other high end shoes.
post #6493 of 20755
Quote:
Originally Posted by tchoy View Post


I have only ordered the classic last from Saint Crispins not a fan of the screwdriver last, hopefully SC will develop more elegant last in the future

you must be serious. they already have. i'm not sure what this screwdriver talk is about??? there wasn't such "gaudy" thing in the showroom???
post #6494 of 20755
Quote:
Originally Posted by tchoy View Post

Your Oundles look great in Edwardian. I hadn't realise EG can do a 1.5 taper to a single, thanks for the heads up I would try it on my next order. I agreed EG still do classic shoes very well, I haven't totally given up on them just yet.

Thanks! Here's a photo of them darkened a bit which I think looks even better. Got out a bit of the yellow and added more tan.

IMG_2259.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by tchoy View Post

I wanted the Oundles to wear with jeans and chinos. I didn't realise EG can do a 1.5 sole to a single sole as per slewfoot mention in a few post back. You can say I have buyer's remorse.

Sorry!
post #6495 of 20755
Quote:
Originally Posted by T4phage View Post


it is not difficult
to get sealskin belts in italy

39501.jpg

get the phoque outta here....shog[1].gif
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