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meister

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Originally Posted by TheWraith
My latest, modest pair from Magnoli Clothiers. I'll be getting a brown, brogued pair from Magnoli soon.

What's with the 1990s/70s blunt fronts?
 

Sterling Gillette

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Cross posted from the other shoe Appreciation thread: Bespoke three-eyelet derbies in black calf.

three-eyelet-derby-03.jpg


three-eyelet-derby-06.jpg


three-eyelet-derby-02.jpg
 

ManofKent

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Originally Posted by greekgeek

Special make up from Allen Edmonds, Byron is discontinued, the Fifth Ave. is close but not quite the same.

If you do a special order it will run ~$450, make sure you request wheeling detail on the welt as it is no longer standard.

They look good in that blue.
Originally Posted by Mr. Moo
2yoe51d.jpg


C&J for RL - Marlow in dark brown cordovan

For me, it is the perfect shoe for 90% of all occasions.

Very nice Moo. I think my resistance to Cordovan has pretty much evaporated. Just shoot me if I start liking tasselled loafers though
wink.gif

Originally Posted by Parker
It's called "Tobacco Chamois". They'd be great with tweed! Maybe even a whole donegal suit.
laugh.gif

Lovely (and the Dover's).
Originally Posted by A Guy from Shanghai
...
Nice - lovely colour.
Originally Posted by mth
Here are some pictures of the shoes which Cravate Noire was kind enough to photograph in process. No complaints on the fit and these are my second pair. Some of the finishing may be a bit "rustic" for some, but I think it gives the shoes a certain amount of character.
I really like the finishing.
Originally Posted by Sterling Gillette
Cross posted from the other shoe Appreciation thread: Bespoke three-eyelet derbies in black calf.
These look very sleek for a derby. Does the heel shape have any value beyond the aesthetic?
 

Cravate_Noire

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Originally Posted by mth
Thanks for the nice comments. The shoes I posted above are from Roberto Ugolini in Florence. If you look closely at Cravate Noire's original picture, you can see the shoe is fitted with a size 42 last, which is about right.

Any reason why he used a predefined last, that confuses me a bit?
All the other lasts werent sized or anything if IIRC.

So my apologies go to ThinkDerm here
blush.gif
.
 

Sanguis Mortuum

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Originally Posted by A Guy from Shanghai
Mine does not have a name. How old are yours?

They were second-hand off eBay, so I have no idea. And oops, they're actually made for Gordon Scott (of Bond Street), not Gordon Rush.
 

Sander

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Originally Posted by Sterling Gillette
Cross posted from the other shoe Appreciation thread: Bespoke three-eyelet derbies in black calf.

three-eyelet-derby-03.jpg


three-eyelet-derby-06.jpg


three-eyelet-derby-02.jpg


Neid.
 

fritzl

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Originally Posted by Cravate_Noire
Any reason why he used a predefined last, that confuses me a bit?

it happens that the lastmaker stamps them with the size. that's not unusual.
 

fritzl

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Originally Posted by ManofKent
Does the heel shape have any value beyond the aesthetic?

it's for orthopedic reasons. very common in the austro-hungarian bespoke tradition...
 

DWFII

Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker
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Originally Posted by ManofKent
These look very sleek for a derby. Does the heel shape have any value beyond the aesthetic?
That's what's known as a Thomas heel. It is supposed to prevent pronation--walking the shoe to the inside (medial side). It doesn't always have that severe a "corner" on the lateral side. That seems a bit unstable to me but I could be wrong.
 

fritzl

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Originally Posted by DWFII
That's what's known as a Thomas heel. It is supposed to prevent pronation--walking the shoe to the inside (medial side).

i have two pairs with the "TH" and i'm very happy with them. btw, from one of the makers of the cooperation the op's shoe is coming from...
 

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