Originally Posted by jjl5000
I don't know enough about the construction to be sure. What I can say is that I have several 'sale' shoes with square waists, where no effort to raise and shape the waist has been made at all. That suggests it's not essential but rather a finishing detail?
probably this gets lost in translation. finish for my understanding is everything about the treatment of the leather.
a fiddleback is a construction detail. you have to distinguish between bespoke and rtw/mtm
in the latter it's a "cheating" version of the bespoke, where it is built up from the welt.
there was a good documentation on a german forum, but the lady took away all the pictures. it would be a guess, if bengal stripe has them on his harddisk.