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Shoe Damage Report & Shoe P0rn Central - Part II - Page 1380

post #20686 of 20750
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nikola View Post
 

Does Vass acquire their museum leather from the same source as John Lobb? This new Walnut Museum looks spectacular, though I remember John Lobb had them for the past 10 years. 

Second row - middle. 

thanks to j ingevaldsson

 

No, but from the same place that Lobb got them from in the beginning. Most of Vass' museum calf nowadays is from the Italian tannery Ilcea (for example Walnut), some still from Zonta and Haas I believe. John Lobb Paris used the Ilcea leather (it's called Ilcea Radica, just everyone says museum about this type of leather now because of Lobb) from the beginning but when they started to get into some troubles Lobb swithed to the French tannery Haas for their Museum calf (and Misty) some year's back. Ilcea went bankrupt like two years ago or something like that, but the tannery group Vecchia Toscana both up the bankruptcy estate and have got Ilcea back on its feet again.

post #20687 of 20750
Quote:
Originally Posted by j ingevaldsson View Post

(A different kind of shoe damage... Didn't know where else to put this than in this thread.)

Together with the bespoke shoemakers and cobblers at Skomakeri Framåt in Stockholm, Sweden, I did a complete disassembly of shoes from three different price ranges. No major surprises, but still quite interesting. When looking at these three it really shows that you get what you pay for. Below a short summary and overview pic of each shoe (much more pics and info can be found on my blog, but can't put it all up here).

The shoes that were disassembled, from left: Loake 1880, Carmina, Paolo Scafora.





Loake 1880 (price around €310):




Some things that can be mentioned:
- Very thin insole, about 2 mm
- Mix of leather and leather board heel lifts
- Good quality thread for the welt seam
- Lining stitched together with the upper at the middle of the shoe, which was a bit unusual
- Well made reinforcements of the upper
- Heel and toe stiffeners of celastic/thermoplastic



Carmina (price around €390):




Some things that can be mentioned:
- Quite thin insole, about 3 mm, with too much of the grain left which had cracked
- Leather heel lifts
- Poron cushioning under the sock liner
- Bad quality thread for the welt seam
- Sole stitch had wrecked the welt stitching at the toe
- Leather board heel stiffener, celastic/thermoplastic toe stiffener
- Metal shank had rust



Paolo Scafora (price about €850):




Some things that can be mentioned:
- Hand welted with machine made sole stitch (which isn't representative for most RTW premium brands at +€800, but other things are)
- Thick insole, 4-5 mm
- Cork plate filling, though a bit rough cork material
- Real leather heel and toe stiffeners
- Lining thread for the welt seam, though with very little wax
- Reinforcement of upper not only with textile, but also leather side reinforcements

It seems that Carmina uses different leather insole nowadays.




Edited by vmss - 9/20/16 at 1:07pm
post #20688 of 20750
Quote:
Originally Posted by vmss View Post


It seems that Carmina uses different leather insole nowadays.

 

Yeah looks like that, at least the stamp is different. And the one in that pic does for certain not have too much of the grain left.

post #20689 of 20750
Quote:
Originally Posted by j ingevaldsson View Post

Yeah looks like that, at least the stamp is different. And the one in that pic does for certain not have too much of the grain left.

Haven't notice any grain left on my 8 Carminas. The leather insole is smooth and very nice to wear.
post #20690 of 20750

Received a pair from the new French brand Orban's, and was very impressed with what you get for just €150 (€125/$140 excl. VAT for non-EU customers). Below some pics of them (also started an Orban's thread here since there was none to be found with more info on the brand and my shoes):

 

 

 

 

 


 

MORE PICTURES HERE! (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

.

post #20691 of 20750
Quote:
Originally Posted by j ingevaldsson View Post

Received a pair from the new French brand Orban's, and was very impressed with what you get for just €150 (€125/$140 excl. VAT for non-EU customers). Below some pics of them (also started an Orban's thread here since there was none to be found with more info on the brand and my shoes):

















  MORE PICTURES HERE! (Click to show)






























.

Very cool!
post #20692 of 20750
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThinkDerm View Post

Very cool!

Cheers!
post #20693 of 20750
Some shades of green:
post #20694 of 20750
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevent View Post

Some shades of green:

Fifth from right what brand is that?
post #20695 of 20750
Quote:
Originally Posted by meister View Post

Fifth from right what brand is that?

Crockett & Jones Pembroke from Barneys in green grain
post #20696 of 20750
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevent View Post

Crockett & Jones Pembroke from Barneys in green grain

me want in your next sell off! inlove.gif
post #20697 of 20750


Myself (wearing my new Meccariello slip on)and fellow SF @ThinkDermmember (wearing 8 years old Grenson for Paul Stuart) in Vienna . Great to meet fellow member in real life smile.gif
post #20698 of 20750
That's the "museum suede" right? How noticeably different does it look from standard reverse calf IRL?
post #20699 of 20750
Quote:
Originally Posted by peppercorn78 View Post

That's the "museum suede" right? How noticeably different does it look from standard reverse calf IRL?
I think the different is enough for any SF member to notice. For most other probably notice something if you point it out .
post #20700 of 20750
Quote:
Originally Posted by meister View Post

Fifth from right what brand is that?

very nice collection!!! I also like those C&Js
Edited by mr monty - 10/2/16 at 9:11pm
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