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Shoe Damage Report & Shoe P0rn Central - Part II - Page 1379

post #20671 of 20692
@peppercorn78 what size/last did you get the chukkas in?
post #20672 of 20692
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post

@peppercorn78 what size/last did you get the chukkas in?

Detroit size 10 EEE (wide)
post #20673 of 20692
bump

post #20674 of 20692

(A different kind of shoe damage... Didn't know where else to put this than in this thread.)

 

Together with the bespoke shoemakers and cobblers at Skomakeri Framåt in Stockholm, Sweden, I did a complete disassembly of shoes from three different price ranges. No major surprises, but still quite interesting. When looking at these three it really shows that you get what you pay for. Below a short summary and overview pic of each shoe (much more pics and info can be found on my blog, but can't put it all up here).

 

The shoes that were disassembled, from left: Loake 1880, Carmina, Paolo Scafora.

 

 

 

Loake 1880 (price around €310):

 

 

Some things that can be mentioned:

- Very thin insole, about 2 mm

- Mix of leather and leather board heel lifts

- Good quality thread for the welt seam

- Lining stitched together with the upper at the middle of the shoe, which was a bit unusual

- Well made reinforcements of the upper

- Heel and toe stiffeners of celastic/thermoplastic

 

 

 

Carmina (price around €390):

 

 

Some things that can be mentioned:

- Quite thin insole, about 3 mm, with too much of the grain left which had cracked

- Leather heel lifts

- Poron cushioning under the sock liner

- Bad quality thread for the welt seam

- Sole stitch had wrecked the welt stitching at the toe

- Leather board heel stiffener, celastic/thermoplastic toe stiffener

- Metal shank had rust

 

 

 

Paolo Scafora (price about €850):

 

 

Some things that can be mentioned:

- Hand welted with machine made sole stitch (which isn't representative for most RTW premium brands at +€800, but other things are)

- Thick insole, 4-5 mm

- Cork plate filling, though a bit rough cork material

- Real leather heel and toe stiffeners

- Lining thread for the welt seam, though with very little wax

- Reinforcement of upper not only with textile, but also leather side reinforcements

post #20675 of 20692

A fascinating posting about the deconstruction of shoes. Thank you!

post #20676 of 20692
Poor shoes! But thanks for the informative post. To my untrained eye, the disassembled parts don't look much different for each shoe.

I've bookmarked your blog for further reading. smile.gif
post #20677 of 20692
Thank you for the trouble, Jesper!

Maybe next time a comparison between three high-end makers with a similar price point and clientele? Lobb Paris, EG and G&G spring to mind quickly.
post #20678 of 20692
Quote:
Originally Posted by Munky View Post

A fascinating posting about the deconstruction of shoes.

Fixed that!
post #20679 of 20692
Quote:
Originally Posted by Munky View Post
 

A fascinating posting about the deconstruction of shoes. Thank you!

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by winston View Post

Poor shoes! But thanks for the informative post. To my untrained eye, the disassembled parts don't look much different for each shoe.

I've bookmarked your blog for further reading. smile.gif

 

Thank you!

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by VRaivio View Post

Thank you for the trouble, Jesper!

Maybe next time a comparison between three high-end makers with a similar price point and clientele? Lobb Paris, EG and G&G spring to mind quickly.

 

Cheers! Yeah that would be cool, only problem is to find people willing to donate shoes like that for something like this...

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post


Fixed that!

 

:D

post #20680 of 20692
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post


Fixed that!

No, bengal, I meant it!  Seeing those shoes taken apart was an education. It taught me a lot more about shoe construction and the way that the bits and pieces fit together (or not, as the case may be).  Very useful and very interesting to follow it all up on your site. Thanks, again. M

post #20681 of 20692

Hosted the event Shoegazing Super Trunk Show in Stockholm for the third time this past Saturday (doing this voluntarily, don't make any money on it at all), with the brands Meermin, Yanko, Vass, Hiro Yanagimachi, Roberto Ugolini, Gaziano & Girling and Italigente, plus other exhibitors and participants, and stuff like the Swedish Championship in Shoe Shining etc. 900 visitors, 170 pairs of shoes sold or purchased at a value of around €63 000 (plus many more upcoming orders), and a bunch of bags, accessories and shoe care products to add to that. Below a bunch of pics from the event (lots more on my blog, but can't post all here):

 

 

Crowded:

 

 

 

 

Vass:

 

 

 

Vass new walnut museum calf colour:

 

 

 

Hiro Yanagimachi:

 


 

MORE PICTURES HERE! (Click to show)

 

 

 

Yanko:

 

 

 

 

Meermin:

 

 

 

 

Roberto Ugolini:

 

 

 

 

Gaziano & Girling:

 

 

 

 

Italigente:

 

 

 

Swedish Championship in Shoe Shining:

 

 

 

Big audience following the competition:

 

 

 

Jury inspection:

 

 

 

Anders Ericson's winning shoe and its unpolished sibling. They have 20 minutes to polish a new Loake 1880 shoe as beautiful as possible:

 

 

 

Panel answering questions from the crowd, from the left Daniel Wegan, Gaziano & Girling, Patrik Löf, Skoaktiebolaget, Janne Melkersson, Melker Shoes:

 

 

 

Patina painting live:

 

 

 

 

Women's bespoke by Skomakeri Framåt:

 

 

 

Shoe care from Springyard and Collonil:

 

 

 

Oppermann London:

 

 

 

Frank Clegg:

 

 

 

 

.

post #20682 of 20692
Looks like a good day was had by all. You put a lot of fun into it for Viking shoe tragics
post #20683 of 20692
Quote:
Originally Posted by sd2002 View Post

X post

Is dis love... is dis love dat your feelin'? The colour is superb.
post #20684 of 20692
Quote:
Originally Posted by meister View Post

Looks like a good day was had by all. You put a lot of fun into it for Viking shoe tragics

 

Cheers :satisfied:

post #20685 of 20692

Does Vass acquire their museum leather from the same source as John Lobb? This new Walnut Museum looks spectacular, though I remember John Lobb had them for the past 10 years. 

Second row - middle. 

thanks to j ingevaldsson

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