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Shoe Damage Report & Shoe P0rn Central - Part II - Page 1333

post #19981 of 20750
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trqmaster View Post

Thanks DW! Good to know. Anything to cut costs I guess.

You're welcome.

I might add that very few companies still cut channels in the insole as part of their GY operations (I only know of one and, AFAIK, they don't do all their shoes like that).

Additionally, while the full canvas "undersock" in the video has much to recommend it (even a certain perverse functional logic), it too has been abandoned in favour of just a strip of canvas. Almost entirely.

I can't believe that such a paltry difference in the cost of raw materials--the full undersock versus the folded strip--would force the shift away from the full undersock. But there it is.

It's hard to imagine any reason but cost cutting and expediency.

--
Edited by DWFII - 3/25/15 at 9:07am
post #19982 of 20750
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

I might add that very few companies still cut channels in the insole as part of their GY operations (I only know of one and, AFAIK, they don't do all their shoes like that).
--
Could you say which company please?
post #19983 of 20750
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jorge View Post

Could you say which company please?

It escapes my mind (I'm old) but MoneyWellSpent documented it in the thread Sole Welting.

I've seen the technique more than a few times in all the years I've been doing this, but not recently...maybe not even in the last 25 years.
post #19984 of 20750
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post


You're welcome.

I might add that very few companies still cut channels in the insole as part of their GY operations (I only know of one and, AFAIK, they don't do all their shoes like that).

Additionally, while the full canvas "undersock" in the video has much to recommend it (even a certain perverse functional logic), it too has been abandoned in favour of just a strip of canvas. Almost entirely.

I can't believe that such a paltry difference in the cost of raw materials--the full undersock versus the folded strip--would force the shift away from the full undersock. But there it is.

It's hard to imagine any reason but cost cutting and expediency.

--


This would only apply to large scale manufacturing. 5 cents per shoe or 10 cents, whatever the savings is times 5000 or 10000 shoes made per year starts to add up. I used to be in the automotive business and it is rampant. Every penny adds up to millions of dollars but customers get shoddy products. Good business for me in the repair aspect I guess...

post #19985 of 20750
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jorge View Post

Could you say which company please?

Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

It escapes my mind (I'm old) but MoneyWellSpent documented it in the thread Sole Welting.

I've seen the technique more than a few times in all the years I've been doing this, but not recently...maybe not even in the last 25 years.

JM Weston still uses it on some models.
post #19986 of 20750
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoneyWellSpent View Post

JM Weston still uses it on some models.

Thanks to you both. I have a few JMW, but from my limited understanding I wouldn't be able to tell from a surface inspection; or would I?
post #19987 of 20750
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jorge View Post

Thanks to you both. I have a few JMW, but from my limited understanding I wouldn't be able to tell from a surface inspection; or would I?

No, you will have to tear it open to see.
post #19988 of 20750
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jorge View Post

Could you say which company please?
i was told
that teh company
who makes for
louis vuitton
uses this method
for their
'goodyear by hand'
post #19989 of 20750
Quote:
Originally Posted by T4phage View Post

'goodyear by hand'

I know you're quoting them but for those new to the subject, there is no such thing.
post #19990 of 20750
Quote:
Originally Posted by T4phage View Post

i was told
that teh company
who makes for
louis vuitton
uses this method
for their
'goodyear by hand'

Generally, when you hear that, it is a misunderstanding of the term, and they are simply referring to hand-welted shoes. Either that, or they are using the Goodyear term as a selling point because it is trendy right now and incorrectly considered by the masses to be the best. The original Goodyear inseaming method was still a machine process.
post #19991 of 20750
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoneyWellSpent View Post

Generally, when you hear that, it is a misunderstanding of the term, and they are simply referring to hand-welted shoes. Either that, or they are using the Goodyear term as a selling point because it is trendy right now and considered by the unassuming to be the best. The original Goodyear inseam in method was still a machine process.
no
re-read my post
teh people
i deal with
know the difference
and they have
seen how those
were made

the machine to cut
the feather from
a thick insole
and to stitch it
to the welt and
upper
is readily
available in italy
post #19992 of 20750
T
Quote:
Originally Posted by T4phage View Post

no
re-read my post
teh people
i deal with
know the difference
and they have
seen how those
were made

the machine to cut
the feather from
a thick insole
and to stitch it
to the welt and
upper
is readily
available in italy

Then I think they are abusing the term "hand." To make it sound better.
post #19993 of 20750
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoneyWellSpent View Post

T
Then I think they are abusing the term "hand." To make it sound better.
that is
a no brainer
post #19994 of 20750
Goodyear isn't just a way to cut a channel or form a hold fast. It is the whole process. If the channel is cut by machine and the inseam sewn by hand it isn't
"Goodyear" by any definition.

If the channel is cut by machine and the inseam sewn by machine, it isn't "by hand."
post #19995 of 20750
Sorry guys--ships passing in the night.
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