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Shoe Damage Report & Shoe P0rn Central - Part II - Page 1255

post #18811 of 20755
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post


Sorry, no...FWIW, cuban and military heels are "hollow ground."

So what is the correct term? 

post #18812 of 20755
I thought it was simply called a pitched heel, no?
post #18813 of 20755
Quote:
Originally Posted by dlind View Post

So what is the correct term? 

Quote:
Originally Posted by riesenschnauser View Post

I thought it was simply called a pitched heel, no?

Probably right. I would have called it a tapered heel...nothing fancy (sometimes a heel like that happens more or less accidentally), but "pitched" is close enough for gov'mnt work.

For a cuban or military heel you need a tool like this:


For a result like this:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Edited by DWFII - 5/12/14 at 1:26pm
post #18814 of 20755
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post


For a cuban or military heel you need a tool like this:


For a result like this:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Wow, how does that tool do that? If it's too long winded, don't worry DWFII.

Fascinating, thanks.
post #18815 of 20755
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleav View Post

Wow, how does that tool do that? If it's too long winded, don't worry DWFII.

Fascinating, thanks.

When am I not long winded? nod[1].gif

Do you know what a spoke shave is? How it works? This is called a "heel shave" Works on the same principle as a spoke shave, except the blade is curved to make a concave cut into the surface of the heel.
post #18816 of 20755
Quote:
Originally Posted by riesenschnauser View Post

Just thought I'd drop these here, since SF is near-devoid of Anthony Cleverley. Just got these today from Leather Soul. It's the Finchley in burgundy. I'm very happy with how the shoes turned out, it's my first foray into AC territory. Of all the RTW shoes I've seen, I'd say this is the neatest make, rivalled only by EG TD.





Beautiful...very very elegant...compliments. Very nice choice!

post #18817 of 20755

^^ Nice quality work,

post #18818 of 20755
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

When am I not long winded? nod[1].gif

Do you know what a spoke shave is? How it works? This is called a "heel shave" Works on the same principle as a spoke shave, except the blade is curved to make a concave cut into the surface of the heel.

I thank you, I'll look into this further. Fascinating DW nod[1].gif
post #18819 of 20755

I was in Stockholm this weekend, could not resist going to Skoaktiebolaget.

 

post #18820 of 20755

^^ Nice pair of shoes.

post #18821 of 20755
Could one of you refresh my memory again: if Cleverley's RTW pairs are made by EG or C&J, what makes them worth the high markup (apart from the last)?
post #18822 of 20755
From what I gather, AC is (partially) made in the C&J factory under the supervision (and possibly being partially made by) Cleverley staff. The shoes are constructed to a much higher standard than even Handgrade C&J –vastly superior leather (I think – but am not sure – that they are actually bespoke-grade uppers, closed elsewhere), better attention to details, completely different soles. The soles are not reminiscent of anything else C&J puts out, so the sole finishing may well be done in-house by Cleverley. It could be pointed out, though, that the shoes are not handwelted (there are a lot of misconceptions floating around...).

The AC range is thus very different from "regular" Cleverley RTW.
Edited by riesenschnauser - 5/13/14 at 10:16am
post #18823 of 20755
Quote:
Originally Posted by riesenschnauser View Post

From what I gather, AC is (partially) made in the C&J factory under the supervision (and possibly being partially made by) Cleverley staff. The shoes are constructed to a much higher standard than even Handgrade C&J –vastly superior leather (I think – but am not sure – that they are actually bespoke-grade uppers, closed elsewhere), better attention to details, completely different soles. The soles are not reminiscent of anything else C&J puts out, so the sole finishing may well be done in-house by Cleverley.

The AC range is thus very different from "regular" Cleverley RTW.

Oh, okay. Really ries? Would seem to be quite improbable that set of circumstances.... May be C & J rep' can help us out?

Thanks though.
post #18824 of 20755
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleav View Post

Oh, okay. Really ries? Would seem to be quite improbable that set of circumstances.... May be C & J rep' can help us out?

Thanks though.
Well, I'm just relaying what I've been able to gather from here and there. The shoes are likely not made by EG as they lack certain of their features such as the elongated heel stiffener. I don't see which circumstances are "improbable" among those I've listed above - the soles, for example, have a softly rolling waist which looks neither like C&J Handgrade nor EG. I'd love to hear your thoughts on the matter.
post #18825 of 20755
Quote:
Originally Posted by riesenschnauser View Post

Well, I'm just relaying what I've been able to gather from here and there. The shoes are likely not made by EG as they lack certain of their features such as the elongated heel stiffener. I don't see which circumstances are "improbable" among those I've listed above - the soles, for example, have a softly rolling waist which looks neither like C&J Handgrade nor EG. I'd love to hear your thoughts on the matter.

Thanks Ries. I am happy to be completely wrong it just seems improbable that shoes are partially made and only under supervision by Quality Control Rep's outside of C & J employed staff. For starters.

As I said I'm happy for you to be right. Just saying.
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