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Shoe Damage Report & Shoe P0rn Central - Part II - Page 1241

post #18601 of 19788
@wurger nice navy dude nod[1].gif
post #18602 of 19788
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stirling View Post

^ really very special t4
\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/

Quote:
Originally Posted by meister View Post

All of the above. The black ones are so nice.
thank you
not a 'brute' of a shoe

Quote:
Originally Posted by Looking to improve View Post

@T4phage
Great to see you posting again!

When did you start wearing black shoes?! The olive ones are more 'you'. tongue.gif

MtB
=)

Quote:
Originally Posted by meister View Post

A lot in what you say. At first looking at the toecap and general shape I thought I was looking at a black version of my AS Moore Exclusives from AFPOS. But the rear is a bit more voluptuous for mine to be UK. Just my dos centavos.
no please....

Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post

I can be wrong, but I cannot find any Italian DNA in those shoes. No Italian would cut the welt so tight, even below "just show stitches". When you look at the shoes from above, you cannot see the welt. Equally the heels are small and the waist is tight and beautifully shaped. I'have never seen that finesse in Italian work.

My money is on one of Japan's 'Young Turks, possibly Masuro Okuyama. Alternatively it might be French work.

And if I'm wrong and it is really Bestetti or Meccariello, then my compliments go to T4, as he has really got whoever it was to up the ante not just by one but three steps in one go.

thank you rolf
if it was able to make you (especially you) think
that the shoes were japanese
(which was the inspiration of this new "Aurum" line)
then we have suceeded
it is a protoype
of meccariello's new line
he is still waiting
for some new tools
from arford
to finish the work
eg other seat wheels,
more angled waist iron
etc


Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post

Magnificent.  My first thought was also Japanese - the tight little heel, natural shape across the ball of the foot, popular Italianesque toe, painted soles, and the big giveaway: those trees.  Either way, they're lovely.  I want carpincho.  Actually I find black half brogue dress shoes incongruous as a derby, though I know this position irritates Americans. Either way, they're beautifully made, I'd just rather they were an oxford, or, as Meister suggested, an adelaide like the AS Moore.

thank you
the inspiration of that model
is one of anthony cleverley's
designs:

DerbybyAC.jpg


Quote:
Originally Posted by j ingevaldsson View Post

T4: Very, very nice, both of them! Are those Meccariello Aurum? The second last looks just like my lasts from him, which are made for the Aurum line (to shoes are standard), and the sneak peak he showed in the Meccariello-thread look similar to the second pair.

Nevertheless, excellent shoes!
thank you
not the same last
this is a new chiselled toe

Quote:
Originally Posted by j ingevaldsson View Post

You have your points, but after examining this a bit closer, I'm pretty sure it is Meccariello Aurum actually. I'll show why.

First, this is my pair from Meccariello made on one of his Aurum lasts (but otherwise it's his standard line), just slightly modified to my measurements. Compare it to T4:s black derbys below:

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 90
the Aurum last
that you chose
was the soft square
however
yours was radically modified
according to the measurements
you sent him
so the last no longer looks the same
and yours
was built to the standard make

fu82g3.jpg


Quote:
Originally Posted by j ingevaldsson View Post

.....Then, here's a pic of a Meccariello derby, also made on the same last as mine (and possibly T4:s then, if I'm correct). Very similar pattern to T4:s shoes:


no
this is a new last
his chisel

there is a great deal
moar work between
Aurum and his standard
including
a different construction
of the toe puff
so that the upper
conforms more exactly
to the line of the last
that is why
the toe of Aurum will be
much cleaner
and sleeker

Quote:
Originally Posted by j ingevaldsson View Post

Also, regarding "heels are small and the waist is tight and beautifully shaped. I'have never seen that finesse in Italian work.", I'd say Bestetti definitely fits that description. He has expressevily said that he wanted away from the traditional, italian style of shoes, and now it looks like Meccariello is doing the same. Possibly we see a new version of italian shoes coming (or just a few more exceptions).
no
bestetti and meccariello's
work is not similar at all
i know
bestetti has a touch moar
'artiginale' in his
work at the waist and heel
bengal stripe is correct

meccariello has specifically
focused on the japanese
as his inspiration

and i would know
i have known both
longer than anyone on this forum
and i have worked with both
more closely than anyone here
bar none

Quote:
Originally Posted by 500plus View Post

Let the cat out of the bag! Who's the maker? My guess is Japanese as well.

it is a prototype
of his upcoming Aurum line

vh3e.jpg
post #18603 of 19788
Quote:
Originally Posted by T4phage View Post
thank you
not the same last
this is a new chiselled toe
the Aurum last
that you chose
was the soft square
however
yours was radically modified
according to the measurements
you sent him
so the last no longer looks the same
and yours
was built to the standard make

fu82g3.jpg
no
this is a new last
his chisel

there is a great deal
moar work between
Aurum and his standard
including
a different construction
of the toe puff
so that the upper
conforms more exactly
to the line of the last
that is why
the toe of Aurum will be
much cleaner
and sleeker
no
bestetti and meccariello's
work is not similar at all
i know
bestetti has a touch moar
'artiginale' in his
work at the waist and heel
bengal stripe is correct

meccariello has specifically
focused on the japanese
as his inspiration

and i would know
i have known both
longer than anyone on this forum
and i have worked with both
more closely than anyone here
bar none
 

 

Okay, thought it was the same last. Yes, like I wrote, mine was a modified last and the shoes made as his standard line.

 

I realize that there's many differences between Aurum and Bestetti, but I'd say also similarities, for example the close waist (even if they are made in entirely different ways, they are still close) and the narrowing heels, which was what I commented about, and also the edge between the waist and the heel etc. They are both taking steps away from the classic italian style, that was my conclusion. I know you have a lot more experience with working very close to both of them!

 

Anyway, it's awesome to finally see how the Aurum-line will look (even if it's still prototypes), it's even better than my anticipations! The only thing that I personally would want is a lower toe spring, otherwise the shoes are 100%.

post #18604 of 19788
^
he wants a sufficient toespring
to minimize creasing
and for better ergonomics
when walking
versus a toe
which touches the ground

moar pix
here
post #18605 of 19788
Quote:
Originally Posted by T4phage View Post

^
he wants a sufficient toespring
to minimize creasing
and for better ergonomics
when walking

versus a toe
which touches the ground

moar pix
here

+1
post #18606 of 19788
Quote:
Originally Posted by T4phage View Post

^
he wants a sufficient toespring
to minimize creasing
and for better ergonomics
when walking
versus a toe
which touches the ground

moar pix
here

 

I understand, just personally think it's very beautiful with a low toe spring. Thanks for posting more pics!

post #18607 of 19788
Quote:
Originally Posted by j ingevaldsson View Post

I understand, just personally think it's very beautiful with a low toe spring. Thanks for posting more pics!
I thought so too, but when Antonio explained it to me it made a lot of sense to me. Because my Bestetti shoes definitely show more wear than older shoes Antonio was wearing himself. The ergonomics bit I still have to find out for myself when I receive my own Meccariello shoes, but it seems logical.
post #18608 of 19788
In a sense, when a shoe has greater toe spring, the whole forepart is a large diameter, shallow radius, "crease"--it's already "creased," IOW. So it doesn't have to crease as much as the shoe is walked.

But more than that, when the foot steps into the shoe, the forepart is flattened by the weight of the body...in a very real manner, any creases are pulled flat. The foot itself becomes a constant "tree," as who should say.

I am also convinced that the tension set up by the forepart being flattened extends all the way back to the heel stiffener and the top of the heel--augmenting the "cupping" of the heel of the foot.

--
Edited by DWFII - 4/1/14 at 10:08am
post #18609 of 19788
below.
post #18610 of 19788
Quote:
Originally Posted by T4phage View Post

^
he wants a sufficient toespring
to minimize creasing
and for better ergonomics
when walking
versus a toe
which touches the ground

moar pix
here

Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

In a sense, when a shoe has greater toe spring, the whole forepart is a large diameter, shallow radius, "crease"--it's already "creased," IOW. So it doesn't have to crease as much as the shoe is walked.

But more than that, when the foot steps into the shoe, the forepart is flattened by the weight of the body...in a very real manner, any creases are pulled flat. The foot itself becomes a constant "tree," as who should say.

I am also convinced that the tension set up by the forepart being flattened extends all the way back to the heel stiffener and the top of the heel--augmenting the "cupping" of the heel of the foot.

--

Yes but isn't creasing an inherent character of a shoe? I hate to have my shoes always look spanky new. Just the right amount of crease and at the correct place brings out and says a lot about the shoe fit/style etc...
post #18611 of 19788

[[X-post from EG thread]]

 

Alright, time to roll out the first set of solo shots from my "EG trilogy" a couple of pages back. 

 

First out: Dover, 606E, Chestnut, HAF soles.

 

Enjoy!

 


 

More pics! (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

post #18612 of 19788
Quote:
Originally Posted by sstomcat View Post


Yes but isn't creasing an inherent character of a shoe? I hate to have my shoes always look spanky new. Just the right amount of crease and at the correct place brings out and says a lot about the shoe fit/style etc...

Don't worry about that nod[1].gif...the forepart on a newly lasted shoe would have to be at 90° to the rest of the shoe to never crease...and even then.

No, your shoe will crease even with a little bit higher toe spring than we see in the above photos, just not as much.

And what that means is that the creases themselves won't "work" as much either--meaning that if you have dirt and grease in the crease, the rubbing action won't be as severe with a sprung forepart as with a flat forepart. Not as much excess leather folded into the crease, less time/space to collapse the crease in on itself, not as far to go to open it back up.
post #18613 of 19788
Quote:
Originally Posted by sstomcat View Post


Yes but isn't creasing an inherent character of a shoe? I hate to have my shoes always look spanky new. Just the right amount of crease and at the correct place brings out and says a lot about the shoe fit/style etc...
teh shoes i posted
have the same amount of
toe spring
as eg and gaziano
post #18614 of 19788

@T4phage So with your experience with meccariello and bestetti...do you have a preference of one maker over the other?

post #18615 of 19788
Quote:
Originally Posted by T4phage View Post


meccariello has specifically
focused on the japanese
as his inspiration

Fascinating!
May you elaborate on what specifically about the Japanese shoes (or which makers) was Antonio inspired by??

I have heard of UK makers being inspired by certain Japanese shoemakers, but this is the first time I heard from the Italian side.
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