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Shoe Damage Report & Shoe P0rn Central - Part II - Page 1220

post #18286 of 19262
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

New Cleverley bespoke balmorals (more details here):


Those are beautiful! I found it interesting that they put the seam on the inside near the heel, instead of centered on the back of the heel. Where it is located seems to be a very unobtrusive place. Did you request that location for the seam?
post #18287 of 19262
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

New Cleverley bespoke balmorals (more details here):














Very cool shoes compliments
post #18288 of 19262
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred G. Unn View Post

Those are beautiful! I found it interesting that they put the seam on the inside near the heel, instead of centered on the back of the heel. Where it is located seems to be a very unobtrusive place. Did you request that location for the seam?

Nevermind. Just saw your posts about it in the bespoke thread.
post #18289 of 19262
Quote:
Originally Posted by isshinryu101 View Post

very nice. Interestingly enough, a few years ago, that would have been considered a mild "square toe" and shunned. Now (thanks to G&G + Bestetti & the SF fans of their shoes), it is a "chisel toe" and quite popular.

I think you have it the other way around.

The soft square has been a traditional Cleverley feature for decades. It also isn't a chisel toe (the Anthony Cleverly RTW toes are chisel toes).

This is the square toe that has historically been lamented:

im]
post #18290 of 19262
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

New Cleverley bespoke balmorals (more details here):



Excellent shoes. The box looks trying too hard. The Ambroisie book cover is also nice

Wow so well written lines...

They also appease my aesthetic philosophy that nothing should stand out more than anything else.

The original Cleverly toe is far more at home with itself.
post #18291 of 19262
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

I think you have it the other way around.

The soft square has been a traditional Cleverley feature for decades. It also isn't a chisel toe (the Anthony Cleverly RTW toes are chisel toes).

This.

It's so often nowadays that people mix up chiseled and squared, even some brands themselves do this.

Soft square toe or square toe is when the toe seen from above has somewhat or completely squared corners, with a more straight line between them.

Chiseled toe describes two things, which complicates it a bit. One is when the sides of the toe area have a pronounced edge, like it's been cut out with screwdriver. It also decribes when the upper tip of the toe has a similar edge shape, with one more flat part going forward to the front of the tip.

A shoe can have a square toe, but not be chiseled (like the Cleverley's above, or C&J 337-last), it can be chiseled but without a square toe (not that common though), and it can have a square toe and be chiseled (like C&J 348-last).

A toe can then have only the chiseled sides, only the chiseled upper tip, or both.
Edited by j ingevaldsson - 2/11/14 at 1:12am
post #18292 of 19262

Picture from jerrybrowne old post.

How much would i pair of penny loafer in this shell and edge cost? Where could i buy them? Thanks

post #18293 of 19262

Beware!  The man you quote is a serious bespoke-shoes baller...attempting to replicate anything of his might require the sale of your house/close relatives/organs.

 

However, a more useful answer to your question might be this: as most respectable makers (Japan excluded) buy their shell from the same place, there are effectively only a handful of available colours, so matching this one should be straightforward enough.  It's just a matter of finding out what your maker has in stock.  A penny loafer is a well-established model that most makers already have, and the other elements of this - the double sole and natural welt - shouldn't be too challenging.  You might find a lot of heel slippage while breaking in a double sole on a loafer, though.

 

As you're looking at something made to order, I'd suggest perhaps Vass?  Their house style might suit this kind of shape, too - reminds me of their "New Peter" ("P2") last.

post #18294 of 19262

^Those look like Vass Norwegers, cognac shell, double antique soles in P2. Direct from Vass those are ~800 USD with 2-3 months of waiting (might be longer now with shell shortages).

post #18295 of 19262

Must be why they reminded me of the Vass P2 then :lol:

 

There's your answer then, Peter: send this pic to info@vass-cipo.hu and say "how much for these as penny loafers?" (suggest also include pic of favourite penny loafers).

post #18296 of 19262
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post
 

Beware!  The man you quote is a serious bespoke-shoes baller...attempting to replicate anything of his might require the sale of your house/close relatives/organs.

 

However, a more useful answer to your question might be this: as most respectable makers (Japan excluded) buy their shell from the same place, there are effectively only a handful of available colours, so matching this one should be straightforward enough.  It's just a matter of finding out what your maker has in stock.  A penny loafer is a well-established model that most makers already have, and the other elements of this - the double sole and natural welt - shouldn't be too challenging.  You might find a lot of heel slippage while breaking in a double sole on a loafer, though.

 

As you're looking at something made to order, I'd suggest perhaps Vass?  Their house style might suit this kind of shape, too - reminds me of their "New Peter" ("P2") last.

thank you gentleman! is heel slippage always an issue for penny loafer? perhaps a single sole works better for penny? 

Quote:
Originally Posted by jaywhyy View Post
 

^Those look like Vass Norwegers, cognac shell, double antique soles in P2. Direct from Vass those are ~800 USD with 2-3 months of waiting (might be longer now with shell shortages).

thank you gentleman!

post #18297 of 19262

It's just that a loafer is more open, and a double sole is more stiff, therefore until the soles soften (which will take longer than a single sole), as you walk, it will literally lever the shoe off your foot a bit.  But it's just a matter of breaking them in.  As long as they fit, there shouldn't be any problem after that.  

post #18298 of 19262
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post
 

It's just that a loafer is more open, and a double sole is more stiff, therefore until the soles soften (which will take longer than a single sole), as you walk, it will literally lever the shoe off your foot a bit.  But it's just a matter of breaking them in.  As long as they fit, there shouldn't be any problem after that.  

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post
 

Must be why they reminded me of the Vass P2 then :lol:

 

There's your answer then, Peter: send this pic to info@vass-cipo.hu and say "how much for these as penny loafers?" (suggest also include pic of favourite penny loafers).

Thanks you the information sir. I will shoot them an email tomorrow. For the last, whats the different between the peter last and new peter last?

post #18299 of 19262
some photos from Vass, ready to be shipped! biggrin.gif





post #18300 of 19262
Quote:
Originally Posted by wurger View Post

some photos from Vass, ready to be shipped! biggrin.gifWarning: Spoiler! (Click to show)





NICE!!!

Wait, didn't you get 4 pairs? What color is that wingtip balmoral?
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