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Shoe Damage Report & Shoe P0rn Central - Part II - Page 1074

post #16096 of 18746
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

Na, when I wear my AC, I can tell the weak arch stiffer that EG has is missing. It is likely that the shoe is made by Crockett and Jones.
Apparently, the upper they use will be the same as their bespoke operation.

Interesting. Considering that C&J makes them, how much of the AC price tag do you think comes from using higher quality leather?
post #16097 of 18746
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

Interesting. Considering that C&J makes them, how much of the AC price tag do you think comes from using higher quality leather?

If the assessment is based on their retail price with VAT, the calf skin they use are very refine, the heel treatment is one of the best for RTW (still far from bespoke), and the sleek last that is rather similar to the U last from Vass, but slightly narrower in the ball area. The AC range is also 9.5 handmade MTO, with the welt only machine stitched.

Overall, value is in the eye of beholder, but I do think the price does reflect its quality, in comparison I am not a fan of G&G deco, in the same sort of price range.
post #16098 of 18746
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

If the assessment is based on their retail price with VAT, the calf skin they use are very refine, the heel treatment is one of the best for RTW (still far from bespoke), and the sleek last that is rather similar to the U last from Vass, but slightly narrower in the ball area. The AC range is also 9.5 handmade MTO, with the welt only machine stitched.

Overall, value is in the eye of beholder, but I do think the price does reflect its quality, in comparison I am not a fan of G&G deco, in the same sort of price range.

Yeah I guess those fancy shoe trees are also included in the price.

Is the AC last based on an actual Anthony Cleverley design from the past? I recall Aubercy having some models based on old Anthony shoes.
post #16099 of 18746
Quote:
Originally Posted by twinpeaks View Post

AFAIK EG does AC for GC

But who are these Turks you speak of regarding AS?

Alfred Sargent is owned by some guys from Turkey, who took over after the last bankruptcy. Still Paul Sargent, Chay Cooper and co that run things though, just different owners.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

Interesting. Considering that C&J makes them, how much of the AC price tag do you think comes from using higher quality leather?

AFAIK the majority of the work on the AC shoes are made in the C&J factory, but with more handwork (as Add911_11 mentions) than on C&J handgrade and with superior materials, and a slower process with high focus on details. Cleverley people is also supervising the process and all shoes go through the cleverly workshop for finish and inspection.
post #16100 of 18746
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

Yeah I guess those fancy shoe trees are also included in the price.

Is the AC last based on an actual Anthony Cleverley design from the past? I recall Aubercy having some models based on old Anthony shoes.

I am pretty sure they are based on the bespoke models, the shape looks very similar to my chisel toe GC bespoke models.
Quote:
Originally Posted by j ingevaldsson View Post

Alfred Sargent is owned by some guys from Turkey, who took over after the last bankruptcy. Still Paul Sargent, Chay Cooper and co that run things though, just different owners.
AFAIK the majority of the work on the AC shoes are made in the C&J factory, but with more handwork (as Add911_11 mentions) than on C&J handgrade and with superior materials, and a slower process with high focus on details. Cleverley people is also supervising the process and all shoes go through the cleverly workshop for finish and inspection.

Thanks for the insight.
post #16101 of 18746
Quote:
Originally Posted by j ingevaldsson View Post


AFAIK the majority of the work on the AC shoes are made in the C&J factory, but with more handwork (as Add911_11 mentions) than on C&J handgrade and with superior materials, and a slower process with high focus on details. Cleverley people is also supervising the process and all shoes go through the cleverly workshop for finish and inspection.

I can easily see C&J doing something similar (high end RTW) with their very own Dmitri supervising and inspecting...but as you implied earlier, C&J seems quite happy with how things are going right now....
post #16102 of 18746
I thought it was time for a group photo of some of my shoes!






From top L to R

Anthony Cleverley Bodie in Bourbon Calf, G&G Deco Bowlly in Midnight Blue, G&G Deco Holden in Deco Black, John Lobb Paris Philip II in misty calf, G&G Westbury in Racing Green on TG73, Edward Green Shannon III on last 82 in Cloud Antique

Bottom L to R

G&G St James II on TG73 in Vintage Cherry, G&G Connought on TG73 in Vintage Oak, G&G Oakham on MH71 in Vintage Rioja, G6G Hove in Chestnut Hatch Grain on TG73 and finally G&G Canterbury on DG70 in Burgundy cordovan

I also have 4 Vass and 4 C&Js so more coming up!
post #16103 of 18746
Quote:
Originally Posted by claes500 View Post

I thought it was time for a group photo of some of my shoes! Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)





From top L to R

Anthony Cleverley Bodie in Bourbon Calf, G&G Deco Bowlly in Midnight Blue, G&G Deco Holden in Deco Black, John Lobb Paris Philip II in misty calf, G&G Westbury in Racing Green on TG73, Edward Green Shannon III on last 82 in Cloud Antique

Bottom L to R

G&G St James II on TG73 in Vintage Cherry, G&G Connought on TG73 in Vintage Oak, G&G Oakham on MH71 in Vintage Rioja, G6G Hove in Chestnut Hatch Grain on TG73 and finally G&G Canterbury on DG70 in Burgundy cordovan
I also have 4 Vass and 4 C&Js so more coming up!

Woo, that is a very good starter collection.
post #16104 of 18746
^^starter collection? Damn, I hate to see how you'd categorize my shoes. I would love to see your collection.
post #16105 of 18746
Quote:
Originally Posted by gyasih View Post

^^starter collection? Damn, I hate to see how you'd categorize my shoes. I would love to see your collection.

+1, starter collection of AC,GG, EG and lobbs wow.gif
post #16106 of 18746
Quote:
Originally Posted by gyasih View Post

^^starter collection? Damn, I hate to see how you'd categorize my shoes. I would love to see your collection.

Haha! my collection is properly not as nice as OPs. I haven't finish with my basic needs yet.

Gyasih, your collection will be undoubtably better. I am only a small timer here.

I guess a 11 shoe wardrobe is only starter for any dissenting gentlemen, be it all AE or all F&S bespoke.
post #16107 of 18746
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

I can easily see C&J doing something similar (high end RTW) with their very own Dmitri supervising and inspecting...but as you implied earlier, C&J seems quite happy with how things are going right now....

Absolutely. And I think they would like to, they just can't with the way things are right now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by claes500 View Post

I thought it was time for a group photo of some of my shoes!






From top L to R

Anthony Cleverley Bodie in Bourbon Calf, G&G Deco Bowlly in Midnight Blue, G&G Deco Holden in Deco Black, John Lobb Paris Philip II in misty calf, G&G Westbury in Racing Green on TG73, Edward Green Shannon III on last 82 in Cloud Antique

Bottom L to R

G&G St James II on TG73 in Vintage Cherry, G&G Connought on TG73 in Vintage Oak, G&G Oakham on MH71 in Vintage Rioja, G6G Hove in Chestnut Hatch Grain on TG73 and finally G&G Canterbury on DG70 in Burgundy cordovan

I also have 4 Vass and 4 C&Js so more coming up!

Really nice collection! I was actually just thinking about that when you posted your Anthony cleverley-shoes, that I would like to see the full collection of yours. When one has been hanging around the shoe threads here for a while one has learned that you picked up some nice goodies. Up with the Vass and C&J:s now as well!
post #16108 of 18746
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

Haha! my collection is properly not as nice as OPs. I haven't finish with my basic needs yet.

Gyasih, your collection will be undoubtably better. I am only a small timer here.

I guess a 11 shoe wardrobe is only starter for any dissenting gentlemen, be it all AE or all F&S bespoke.

smile.gif I am somewhat of a starter since I feel I just begun wearing really great shoes (2.5 years) but I have 9 more shoes that I will post soon (4 Vass, 4 C&Js and one Carmina) I wonder how it will look in another 2.5 years (my wallet will look even worse smile.gif )

Quote:
Originally Posted by j ingevaldsson View Post

Absolutely. And I think they would like to, they just can't with the way things are right now.
Really nice collection! I was actually just thinking about that when you posted your Anthony cleverley-shoes, that I would like to see the full collection of yours. When one has been hanging around the shoe threads here for a while one has learned that you picked up some nice goodies. Up with the Vass and C&J:s now as well!

Thank you Ingevaldsson! I will post my Vass and CJs and a Carmina as well soon (my GF thinks I am a mad man when I arrange my shoes on the floor so I will try when she's not around biggrin.gif )
post #16109 of 18746
Quote:
Originally Posted by claes500 View Post

(my GF thinks I am a mad man when I arrange my shoes on the floor so I will try when she's not around biggrin.gif )

This is +10000. Imagine what happens when she's your wife!
post #16110 of 18746
Quote:
Originally Posted by claes500 View Post

I thought it was time for a group photo of some of my shoes!






From top L to R

Anthony Cleverley Bodie in Bourbon Calf, G&G Deco Bowlly in Midnight Blue, G&G Deco Holden in Deco Black, John Lobb Paris Philip II in misty calf, G&G Westbury in Racing Green on TG73, Edward Green Shannon III on last 82 in Cloud Antique

Bottom L to R

G&G St James II on TG73 in Vintage Cherry, G&G Connought on TG73 in Vintage Oak, G&G Oakham on MH71 in Vintage Rioja, G6G Hove in Chestnut Hatch Grain on TG73 and finally G&G Canterbury on DG70 in Burgundy cordovan

I also have 4 Vass and 4 C&Js so more coming up!

ALways enjoy group shots. THANKS!
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