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Shoe Damage Report & Shoe P0rn Central - Part II - Page 1040

post #15586 of 19398
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post


Your fundamental observation is correct up to a point...although the example is entirely off base--nothing practical or pragmatic about glue and splits.

That said, what makes a Traditional, bespoke shoe so attractive is that it is the culmination of 10,000 years of evolution/development deliberately and mindfully aimed at combining the most practical, durable, sound, pragmatic, etc. techniques, to create something that is both functional and beautiful. But make no mistake the "beauty" part of it is and must be subordinate to the practicality.

I'm sure there will be those who would rush to disagree...Style vs. Substance...but shoemaking as a Trade has had this intent all along. It is part the 'ethos" of shoemaking, if you will.

And again, in that context, I must stress I'm not against ornamentation or styling devices(I actually like, from a purely aesthetic POV, the narrow waist) ...as long as they do not detract from the life or function of the shoe. Which, in this circumstance, I suspect (or at least question) it does.

 

I can't argue with you my friend.  In purely practical terms, you are surely right that this puts more strain on the upper.  And i'm not advocating shit shoes, of course.  I'd just say that sometimes we blur the line for the sake of style - in either direction.  This might be i-Gent heresy, but cordovan loafers make no sense at all, nor covering it up with galoshes: isn't the point of cordovan that it's waterproof and virtually indestructible?  But in our style-fest here, heaven forbid that a drop of water might mark one's whiskey shell tassles!  I think I'd only buy cordovan as a heavy boot or country derby, and I'd get it wet and dirty.  

 

Anyway, my point is that you're right about the history and evolution of artisan technology that is beautiful in itself, and also that by seeking quality, we are affirming the practicality and original meaning of this kind of workmanship.  But I'm just saying we're also entitled to play with the form as art sometimes - even if that does mean a less supportive fiddleback waist or, conversely, a bullet-proof ballet shoe. :)

post #15587 of 19398
These Behemoths just came up via Panta's email list: handmade in Hungary by Heinrich Dinkelacker.

Triple oak bark leather soles, Horween shell cordovan uppers, built to last a fallout. Also for non-preppers.

HD1-3T.jpg
post #15588 of 19398
excellent
post #15589 of 19398
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

If the insole is that narrow in the waist it may not be fully functional or healthy for the foot, esp. if it's RTW..

If all that overhang is solely supported by a soft upper leather, than it might be rather precariously.

But if the foundations are right, there shouldn't be any problems.

If you do an "insole up in waist"



or a heel stiffener extended on the medial side (or even both sides)



This will divert the stresses, rather like the flying buttresses in Gothic architecture.

(I have no idea, whether this was done in the pictured shoe.)
post #15590 of 19398

It's expert information like that above that brought me to this forum, and p0rn like that below that makes it so damaging!

 

Quote:

Handmade in Hungary by Heinrich Dinkelacker. (Click to show)

Originally Posted by VRaivio View Post

These Behemoths just came up via Panta's email list: handmade in Hungary by Heinrich Dinkelacker.

Triple oak bark leather soles, Horween shell cordovan uppers, built to last a fallout. Also for non-preppers.

HD1-3T.jpg

 

 

Outstanding!  I love this!

post #15591 of 19398
Quote:
Originally Posted by SHS View Post

They truly are. Cravate_Noire, where were these from, and where were the womes shoes from? Same place?

They are from different makers. All my shoes with such an extremely shaped waist are bespoke, I dislike purely cosmetic waist treatments of that type (you can add upp material and then simply carve it down to have a similar efffect, at least visually, some rtw makers have been doing this). They are among the most comfortable and supportive shoes I have, but as it was said before I also think that it would be impossible to find a well fitting rtw shoes wich such an extreme shape. This is a well used and already once resoled pair btw. and I had now problems with the 'overhanging' parts around the waist at all.
post #15592 of 19398
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheWraith View Post

I'm slowly building up a modest rotation (by the standards here). Please forgive the crummy smartphone photo.


I'm hoping you just removed the shoe trees for the photo.
post #15593 of 19398
I'm getting the trees now, don't worry. Most of those shoes are new and barely worn, so there's no damage done.
post #15594 of 19398
Quote:
Originally Posted by VRaivio View Post

These Behemoths just came up via Panta's email list: handmade in Hungary by Heinrich Dinkelacker.

Triple oak bark leather soles, Horween shell cordovan uppers, built to last a fallout. Also for non-preppers.

HD1-3T.jpg

wow
post #15595 of 19398
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post

If all that overhang is solely supported by a soft upper leather, than it might be rather precariously.

But if the foundations are right, there shouldn't be any problems.

If you do an "insole up in waist"



or a heel stiffener extended on the medial side (or even both sides)



This will divert the stresses, rather like the flying buttresses in Gothic architecture.

(I have no idea, whether this was done in the pictured shoe.)

You're absolutely correct. But, first, I'd like to hear of the RTW manufacturer that does either the arch support waist insole or the extended heel stiffener. Or even midliners (which might also bolster the waist).

Beyond that, my concern is that when a person wears the shoes in certain circumstances...say getting into or out of an automobile or if they step on the edge of a curb wrong...the shoe can roll a bit and the vamp will be exposed to abrasion simply because the insole is stiff and hard and the insole being proud of the outsole, with the weight of the body behind it, makes the vamp vulnerable.

You don't see it often in contemporary footwear because this kind of waist is relatively rare but we used to see it all the time on riding boots with improperly cut waists. The stirrup would rub a hole in the vamp.
post #15596 of 19398
Quote:
Originally Posted by VRaivio View Post

These Behemoths just came up via Panta's email list: handmade in Hungary by Heinrich Dinkelacker.

Triple oak bark leather soles, Horween shell cordovan uppers, built to last a fallout. Also for non-preppers.

HD1-3T.jpg

Great shoe!

I think those could even survive the swedish winter...and if that isn´t proof of quality, i don´t know what is biggrin.gif
post #15597 of 19398
Is it just the lighting or are those brass toe taps?
post #15598 of 19398
Quote:
Originally Posted by DpprDr View Post

Is it just the lighting or are those brass toe taps?

yes

post #15599 of 19398
wrong forum
Edited by wqvong - 2/25/13 at 8:43pm
post #15600 of 19398
Quote:
Originally Posted by VRaivio View Post

These Behemoths just came up via Panta's email list: handmade in Hungary by Heinrich Dinkelacker.

Triple oak bark leather soles, Horween shell cordovan uppers, built to last a fallout. Also for non-preppers.

HD1-3T.jpg

Sweet looking shoes.

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