Shoe Damage Report & Shoe P0rn Central - Part II - Page 1031
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Just got these from New & Lingwood on Jermyn Street. I have a low arch and low instep and usually have problems with completely closed quarters and too much room in the vamp. So I was pleasantly surprised to happen across a shoe that fit me perfectly. I would have preferred a darker brown or black but with my odd-shaped foot I couldn't decline a shoe that fits so well.
I was wondering if anyone could identify the maker? The salesman advised me these were actually from the Poulsen Skone range even though - for reasons which were left unclear - the heel cushion is stamped N&L.
Many thanks, Grenson appears to check out here.
(Is it poor etiquette to link to a thread on another forum? Apologies if so.)
I must say the most spectacular items in N&L today were the Poulsen Skone apron-stitched chukka boots in beige grain. They're also on the N&L website (link) but the photos there don't do them justice: they were quite stunning in the flesh. The soles, not shown on the website, were fiddled, painted, and had a solitary triangle of nails in the heel. The apron stitching seemed to me exquisite.
Sadly they didn't have my size so I couldn't try them on!
Can any of the french speaking members tell me if this loafer is GY-welted, or how it is constructed?
crante means knotched. So the rubber sole is attached to the leather by knotching? I suspect it means the rubber is sewn (knotched) onto the leather inner sole rather than just being glued on. Just my surmise.
This - along with that swan neck detailing around the vamp also favoured by EG. Masterpiece is regarded as slightly superior to EG quality so far ahead of C&J = the normal Poulsen sub-out maker.
In fact they look just like a Masterpiece pair I had from Paul Stuart some years ago.
I don't own any Edward Green shoes but, having tried some on in the London store, I'd have to agree that they have a slight edge on my new Grensons. I think the finishing on EG and Lobb is finer and more accurate. For example, you can see in my photos above that the sole painting is not a deep, lustrous black and has gone over the marked line at the bottom. Similarly the way the heel is closed with a small fold of leather is not the most attractive method:
Small details, but they make a difference. I also have some new Cleverley shoes (non-bespoke) which I would place a little above these in terms of finish, particularly in terms of the richness of colour and antiquing of the leather. However, they don't fit me anywhere near as well!
However, the Poulsen Skone Grensons seem to be very fine shoes and I am pleased with the purchase.
Also, the link doesn't specify how they're made, it just says "stitched". But that doesn't really mean anything - what looks like a welt might be fake stitching for decoration with a glued sole - something I've seen a lot with "fashion" brands.