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Shoe Damage Report & Shoe P0rn Central - Part II - Page 986post #14777 of 2069412/16/12 at 2:10pmpost #14778 of 2069412/16/12 at 2:15pmpost #14779 of 2069412/16/12 at 3:50pmpost #14780 of 2069412/16/12 at 10:17pm
Gerry how is the leather quality on your black 2eyelet derbies? The leather on mine creased up a bit and after the first wear I noticed some whitish residue in the creases....which is weird since its not cordovan. I had to colour them with Saphir medium brown cream and then wax, but the residue still persisted...like psoriasis.
Last night I applied cream again but this time used Saphir Havana brown (very dark) to polish and now it seems things are turning around.
But still, great shoe and great fit....with these I don't need any fancy Corthay one eye derbies (which I tried and hated).post #14781 of 2069412/16/12 at 11:01pmpost #14782 of 2069412/17/12 at 2:06ampost #14783 of 2069412/17/12 at 3:28amQuote:
No it's gone now but I used much darker brown...i think giving it a few layers of polish over the next few months will probably correct it.post #14784 of 2069412/17/12 at 4:32ampost #14785 of 2069412/17/12 at 4:34am
Interesting statement. Santoni is all up and down the range in styling. From the xtra pointy or xtra Italian styles to the more English traditional lasts as well. Hard to say exactly what Santoni's "look like".post #14786 of 2069412/17/12 at 4:36ampost #14787 of 2069412/17/12 at 7:10am
What? Based on what? It's impossible to label a maker that has shoes from CG blake all the way to hand-welted masterpieces. Regardless, even at the lowest levels, that is a ridiculous amount of cracking. Even AE's shouldn't suffer that way. Using shoe trees alone should prevent that, much less if you polish and condition.post #14788 of 2069412/17/12 at 9:14amBased on the fact that I agree that this amount of cracking shouldn't occur with proper treatment but it did. I know others who share my opinion and have had similar experiences.
Go crazy all you want with high-end, hand-welted constructions methods, I'm not impressed by Santoni's leather quality.post #14789 of 2069412/17/12 at 9:34ampost #14790 of 2069412/17/12 at 10:08amQuote:Originally Posted by isshinryu101
What? Based on what? It's impossible to label a maker that has shoes from CG blake all the way to hand-welted masterpieces. Regardless, even at the lowest levels, that is a ridiculous amount of cracking. Even AE's shouldn't suffer that way. Using shoe trees alone should prevent that, much less if you polish and condition.
Nevertheless cracking like this has been a problem for centuries. Charles' shoe are indicative that even high end bespoke will crack.
There used to be a common perception that floor level urinals were the cause of such cracking--the uric acid being the culprit. But raising urinals hasn't seemed to make a difference.
I suspect that certain leathers are more prone to cracking than others, that's all. And it doesn't have anything to do with the quality except that naturally, lower end leathers may have residual chemicals that were not completely or properly flushed and which accelerate the process.
I also suspect that veg tanned leathers...while much preferred and admired by shoemakers and customers alike...can be more vulnerable simply because veg tans tend to be drier leathers and natural compounds such as tannic acid may be harder to flush or neutralize than chromium salts.
And contemporary tannages are probably at increased risk relative to older, perhaps vintage leathers/shoes.
Some of this is admittedly speculation...I'm not a leather chemist...but if experience is of any value whatsoever, I suspect the answer (if a single answer is ever to be found) will be somewhat close.
Edited by DWFII - 12/17/12 at 10:26am
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