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Shoe Damage Report & Shoe P0rn Central - Part II - Page 979

post #14671 of 19150
Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

Yes, though it's only moderately different.
So, all skins being equal, the AC is a much superior pair?
Any idea how pig skin shoes wear over time? They have a pig skin option and I'm deliberating between having the pig or the cow (hatch).

I wouldn't say that one is superior to the other in terms of construction/quality. They probably are remarkably similar in that regard. Both represent the pinnacle of English RTW construction. It comes down to that which is more suitable for you.

Pigskin is typical softer, more flexible and much less able to hold a shape in the long run than calf leathers. For that particular shoe I personally would stick with a hatch or pin grain if you want a texture. I think of pig skin as being appropriate for less formal styles such as moccasin construction, split toes, etc. etc.
post #14672 of 19150
Quote:
Originally Posted by greekgeek View Post

Really on just one pair, Tan Kiwi on dark brown shoes and I used it very sparingly, looks great.
Never heard of it, will check it out thanks.

bick4 or DYO are both very good and cheap to buy. Don't pay more than $6 for either one.

DYO
http://www.mostshoestuff.com/browse.cfm/dyo-reptile-conditioner-4-0unce/4,309.html



Bick 4
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM471008201P?sid=IDx20110310x00001i&srccode=cii_184425893&cpncode=32-202695635-2
post #14673 of 19150
Quote:
Originally Posted by NAMOR View Post

What are your thoughts on installing plastic toe taps on high end shoes like G&G and st. Crispins. Obviously I would rather have metal toe taps but they are not available where I live. Another option of course is not installing any toe taps at all and wearing down the soles. I could then resole them at either b.nelson or saint Crispins. The latter would cost $300+ and the former would be considerably cheaper but the quality much lower.
I think I'd rather have plastic toe taps on a saint crispin boots for 3+ years instead of 2 years of saint Crispins and 1 ++++++++ years of b Nelson


1. send the shoes to B. Nelson for metal sunken toe taps

2. when needed, get new soles from B. Nelson. He has high end soles for high end shoes.

3. if you rotate all the shoes you have (and future shoes), you shouldn't need to get anything resoled for the next 10-15 years. I haven't had a pair of shoes resole in over 30 years.
post #14674 of 19150
Namor isn't fooling me. He won't keep a pair of shoes long enough to need a resole. He's the most fickle shoe geek on the fora. After a half dozen wearings he's pretty much guaranteed to be movin' on to greener pastures.

peepwall[1].gifstirpot.gif
post #14675 of 19150
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr monty View Post

1. send the shoes to B. Nelson for metal sunken toe taps
2. when needed, get new soles from B. Nelson. He has high end soles for high end shoes.
3. if you rotate all the shoes you have (and future shoes), you shouldn't need to get anything resoled for the next 10-15 years. I haven't had a pair of shoes resole in over 30 years.

Good points all. Not sure I would resole a pair of SCs anywhere besides at the factory though. They have a very special finish on their soles and have a pegged waist that might get screwed up somewhere else.
post #14676 of 19150
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gdot View Post

I wouldn't say that one is superior to the other in terms of construction/quality. They probably are remarkably similar in that regard. Both represent the pinnacle of English RTW construction. It comes down to that which is more suitable for you.
Pigskin is typical softer, more flexible and much less able to hold a shape in the long run than calf leathers. For that particular shoe I personally would stick with a hatch or pin grain if you want a texture. I think of pig skin as being appropriate for less formal styles such as moccasin construction, split toes, etc. etc.

Thank you. Very helpful.
post #14677 of 19150

whiskey indy
argyles otc
post #14678 of 19150
^ Looking great Mac! Machine stitch apron >> handstitched apron on Indy boots.
post #14679 of 19150
Quote:
Originally Posted by NAMOR View Post

What are your thoughts on installing plastic toe taps on high end shoes like G&G and st. Crispins. Obviously I would rather have metal toe taps but they are not available where I live.

Both G&G and Saint Crispin will install metal toe taps (of the 'Lulu' variety), if requested on a made-to-order pair.




They certainly will do it if ordered at the same time as the shoes. Whether they will fix it at some later point, I wouldn't know,
post #14680 of 19150
Quote:
Originally Posted by NAMOR View Post

What are your thoughts on installing plastic toe taps on high end shoes like G&G and st. Crispins. Obviously I would rather have metal toe taps but they are not available where I live. Another option of course is not installing any toe taps at all and wearing down the soles. I could then resole them at either b.nelson or saint Crispins. The latter would cost $300+ and the former would be considerably cheaper but the quality much lower.
I think I'd rather have plastic toe taps on a saint crispin boots for 3+ years instead of 2 years of saint Crispins and 1 ++++++++ years of b Nelson
no taps. resole when needed by St. C's
post #14681 of 19150
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

I understand why the rake is always banging about them

Flickr 上 CHA-KDSC03075
Flickr 上 CHA-KDSC03079
Flickr 上 CHA-KDSC03078
Pretty expensive both worth it, also it is not as narrow as I thought.
Cleverly?
post #14682 of 19150
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr monty View Post

1. send the shoes to B. Nelson for metal sunken toe taps
2. when needed, get new soles from B. Nelson. He has high end soles for high end shoes.
3. if you rotate all the shoes you have (and future shoes), you shouldn't need to get anything resoled for the next 10-15 years. I haven't had a pair of shoes resole in over 30 years.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gdot View Post

Namor isn't fooling me. He won't keep a pair of shoes long enough to need a resole. He's the most fickle shoe geek on the fora. After a half dozen wearings he's pretty much guaranteed to be movin' on to greener pastures.
peepwall[1].gifstirpot.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrybrowne View Post

Good points all. Not sure I would resole a pair of SCs anywhere besides at the factory though. They have a very special finish on their soles and have a pegged waist that might get screwed up somewhere else.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr monty View Post

1. send the shoes to B. Nelson for metal sunken toe taps
2. when needed, get new soles from B. Nelson. He has high end soles for high end shoes.
3. if you rotate all the shoes you have (and future shoes), you shouldn't need to get anything resoled for the next 10-15 years. I haven't had a pair of shoes resole in over 30 years.
This
post #14683 of 19150
Quote:
Originally Posted by greekgeek View Post

^ Looking great Mac! Machine stitch apron >> handstitched apron on Indy boots.

nephew,
thank you
post #14684 of 19150
Swung by the SF barneys. C&J Cranford Black Calf vs Lowndes Navy Suede.

Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos
post #14685 of 19150
Quote:
Originally Posted by NAMOR View Post

Swung by the SF barneys. C&J Cranford Black Calf vs Lowndes Navy Suede.
Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

Lowndes. Unless you already have too many double monks. Don't you have bunch of JL doubles?
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