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Shoe Damage Report & Shoe P0rn Central - Part II - Page 928

post #13906 of 19461
Quote:
Originally Posted by Southern View Post

I ordered the Lancaster from Yoox a few weeks ago for $298. Brownish calf. It was awful corrected grain leather so I sent them back. Plasticky yuck! Hope yours are different.

My Church's shoes from Yoox have arrived, but it was not the "Lancaster", but apparantly a model called "Auckland". They look almost like the "Lancaster", and the color is "Walnut", but they must be out of production now, so they have probably been in the box for some time. Does anybody know this model, and know when it was produced? It is not corrected grain or polished binder, but there seems to be a weakness on the side of one of the shoes where the leather wrinkles, so I'm not sure I will keep them. The tongue is also partly stitched to the side of the shoe, and I'm not sure I like that, but that could just be removed I guess. Does anyone have experience with this? I will probably post pictures tomorrow.
post #13907 of 19461
Quote:
Originally Posted by SHS View Post

My Church's shoes from Yoox have arrived, but it was not the "Lancaster", but apparantly a model called "Auckland". They look almost like the "Lancaster", and the color is "Walnut", but they must be out of production now, so they have probably been in the box for some time. Does anybody know this model, and know when it was produced? It is not corrected grain or polished binder, but there seems to be a weakness on the side of one of the shoes where the leather wrinkles, so I'm not sure I will keep them. The tongue is also partly stitched to the side of the shoe, and I'm not sure I like that, but that could just be removed I guess. Does anyone have experience with this? I will probably post pictures tomorrow.

If you like them, keep them. If not, they DID send you the wrong shoes, so just return. Not sure what you mean by "a weakness on the side of one of the shoes where the leather wrinkles", but it isn't uncommon to partly stitch the tongue to the upper. This keeps it from sliding down as you insert your foot. Why would you remove it, as I can't imagine a downside to its being there?
post #13908 of 19461
Thank you for your reply. They didn't actually write that it was the Lancaster, that was just what I thought myself. The shoe does look exactly like the Lancaster, but the box says it is an Auckland. I have not been able to find a picture of an Auckland at all though. Perhaps they have written it by mistake, but who knows. I am not used to the tongue being stitched, but I gather that it is not a problem. I will post pictures tomorrow if I have the time. I have put trees in them so the wrinkles will get evened out a little I hope.
post #13909 of 19461
Church's made a tons of different models before the Prada disgrace.
It's almost impossible to schedule every model they produced.
In what last are they made?
post #13910 of 19461
Quote:
Originally Posted by isshinryu101 View Post

The Holy Grail of US Vintage Shoes (really)...
1940's NOS Edwin Clapp Flying Wing Spade Soled Oxford Wingtips.
100% Handmade elegance.
(I can't believe they are a HUGE size 13d! What a rare size for Vintage US Shoes, where most are too small for the modern foot to wear)
Just my size...
post #13911 of 19461

SHS: if they've been in the box a long time (or you think they might), it's worth giving them a couple of days' attention: first day, a good brushing for scaly old polish, and a renovator.  Leave it on for 24 hours.  Then wipe it off, polish but don't buff and leave another 24, then shine them up again.  Allowing all that to work into the leather will give you a great shine, but also allow the leather to be supple and respond more easily to the trees and remove any wrinkles.  If you have't got any renovator, just a good coat of polish after a stiff brushing and leave it overnight, will still help.

post #13912 of 19461
Quote:
Originally Posted by SHS View Post

Thank you for your reply. They didn't actually write that it was the Lancaster, that was just what I thought myself. The shoe does look exactly like the Lancaster, but the box says it is an Auckland. I have not been able to find a picture of an Auckland at all though. Perhaps they have written it by mistake, but who knows. I am not used to the tongue being stitched, but I gather that it is not a problem. I will post pictures tomorrow if I have the time. I have put trees in them so the wrinkles will get evened out a little I hope.

trees + regular conditioner for a week or 2 will help shape them.
post #13913 of 19461
Thank you all for your comments.
Quote:
Originally Posted by alexSF View Post

Church's made a tons of different models before the Prada disgrace.
It's almost impossible to schedule every model they produced.
In what last are they made?

The last is the 73. I understand that the current last for the Lancaster model is 173. It would be an unexpected bonus if the shoes were pre-prada. It's very strange with the Auckland name on the box and inside the shoe. I have tried to write to Church's, so perhaps they can come up with an answer.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post

SHS: if they've been in the box a long time (or you think they might), it's worth giving them a couple of days' attention: first day, a good brushing for scaly old polish, and a renovator.  Leave it on for 24 hours.  Then wipe it off, polish but don't buff and leave another 24, then shine them up again.  Allowing all that to work into the leather will give you a great shine, but also allow the leather to be supple and respond more easily to the trees and remove any wrinkles.  If you have't got any renovator, just a good coat of polish after a stiff brushing and leave it overnight, will still help.

Quote:
Originally Posted by isshinryu101 View Post

trees + regular conditioner for a week or 2 will help shape them.

Thank you both. Yes, I have some renovateur I will apply severel times before wearing, especially because they can have been lying in the box for long. I must say the leather smells, feels and looks OK though. They don't look very dry, but they seem quite stiff and hard.
post #13914 of 19461
The last 73 was replaced (more than 10 years ago) by the last 100 then replaced by the 173.
Post pictures also of the box.
Church's used to be "The" English Shoemaker, very sad what's going on now...
post #13915 of 19461
Quote:
Originally Posted by SHS View Post

Thank you all for your comments.
The last is the 73. I understand that the current last for the Lancaster model is 173. It would be an unexpected bonus if the shoes were pre-prada. It's very strange with the Auckland name on the box and inside the shoe. I have tried to write to Church's, so perhaps they can come up with an answer.
The last plain black cap toe on the 73 was (confusingly, I suppose) called the "Balmoral" as far as I know. I wonder if it was a different name for a different market?  I think that was rather more common back in the early days of/prior to, widespread e-retail.  Now having more than one name for a product would be confusing, but it's not that long ago that even individual large buyers would choose their own names sometimes, as well as country or region-specific ones.  Will be interested to hear the proper story.
Quote:
Originally Posted by alexSF View Post

The last 73 was replaced (more than 10 years ago) by the last 100 then replaced by the 173.
Post pictures also of the box.
Church's used to be "The" English Shoemaker, very sad what's going on now...

 

Of course the idea of Prada taking over Church's grates.  And some of their more "fashion-orientated" offerings e.g. those distressed leather horrors, are simply vile.  But when people refer to "what's going on now", as you put it, there seems to be a suggestion of a more fundamental change than some tacky sidelines.  Any Northampton insiders with a dispassionate account?  I have one pair (single monk, Becket, black calf) on the 173, and frankly the leather is lovely, the styling is classic, and I'm very attached to them.  What, apart from the very idea of Prada ownership, seems to be the problem?

post #13916 of 19461
Quote:
Originally Posted by alexSF View Post

The last 73 was replaced (more than 10 years ago) by the last 100 then replaced by the 173.
Post pictures also of the box.
Church's used to be "The" English Shoemaker, very sad what's going on now...

I have seen that Herring are offering some discontinued models on the 73 last:
http://www.herringshoes.co.uk/product-list.php?brandid=4#d38
How does that last compare to the current 173?
For me it is one of the best looking lasts I have seen, perhaps only second to some (or one) EG last(s).
post #13917 of 19461
Georg Maternas- Thanks for the help Gerd!

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post #13918 of 19461
WOWZA!
post #13919 of 19461
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post

Of course the idea of Prada taking over Church's grates.  And some of their more "fashion-orientated" offerings e.g. those distressed leather horrors, are simply vile.  But when people refer to "what's going on now", as you put it, there seems to be a suggestion of a more fundamental change than some tacky sidelines.  Any Northampton insiders with a dispassionate account?  I have one pair (single monk, Becket, black calf) on the 173, and frankly the leather is lovely, the styling is classic, and I'm very attached to them.  What, apart from the very idea of Prada ownership, seems to be the problem?

Yes, you are correct but today only a small amount of production is consistent with their past.
If you take a 90's catalogue and compare the actual offer and approach you couldn't be really sad.
I don't have anything against Prada itself, only their purpose to make Church's a "fashion oriented" profitable brand year after year.
post #13920 of 19461
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrybrowne View Post

Georg Maternas- Thanks for the help Gerd! Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
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quote]

Long time no Fritzl. Where is he? patch[1].gif
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