These are navy suede wholecuts with fake captoe. Corthay like last.
These are specs. The dark is a blue micro grain? The white has perforations on a rectangular grid. I got these lined in linen for summer. On a modern round last.
Testoni (Norwegian construction). A few years old, back when Black Label was the high end line.
After-market antique finish by Rider. Not a fan of heel plates. Asked for toe plates, but the cobbler did both toe and heel plates