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Shoe Damage Report & Shoe P0rn Central - Part II - Page 704

post #10546 of 19808
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr monty View Post

+1 chestnut is fantastic
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525
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Serious porn
post #10547 of 19808
v6rc0j.jpg
cigar indy
argyles otc
post #10548 of 19808
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post

what's the purpose of this message?
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post

this is not the right attitude, if i may say.
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post

actually, i didn't know that you're a steady follower of my excellent taste in footwear and i appreciate your willingness to learn from the best.
understood that it is a hard way from your peasantry way of thinking to reach the big whole, you're on track, son.

No need to lecture me "son." I don't post much, but I've followed the shoe threads for quite awhile. Your taste in footwear is different than mine and in my 60+ years on this earth, I've developed an eclectic taste that is all my own. Some Eastern European bespoke, some US bespoke, some flip flops, and a variety in between. You made a comment about the "esthetics" of Alden 405s, and I made a return comment. That's all. Enjoy your shoes and your tastes and I'll enjoy mine. Carry on.
post #10549 of 19808
Cancel this?
350

And get these? (twice as much)
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232

waited a year for these from Unionmade, but they were never restocked
post #10550 of 19808

Not a fan of the contrast stitch on the bottom pair - blue is already making a statement; you don't need to holler

post #10551 of 19808
Quote:
Originally Posted by LynahFaithful View Post


No need to lecture me "son." I don't post much, but I've followed the shoe threads for quite awhile. Your taste in footwear is different than mine and in my 60+ years on this earth, I've developed an eclectic taste that is all my own. Some Eastern European bespoke, some US bespoke, some flip flops, and a variety in between. You made a comment about the "esthetics" of Alden 405s, and I made a return comment. That's all. Enjoy your shoes and your tastes and I'll enjoy mine. Carry on.


not enough discussion of these on the board-  bespoke? eh.gif

 

PS bring on pics of yr shoes icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif

post #10552 of 19808
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr monty View Post

Cancel this?
350
And get these? (twice as much)
232
232
waited a year for these from Unionmade, but they were never restocked

The top ones are smoother but that may not be your personal taste.
post #10553 of 19808
Quote:
Originally Posted by NAMOR View Post

im not a critic of the Dover but im no fan either. might be the most polarizing shoe in all of SF. more so for some than others..

That underneath front stitch is so bad if it were done by a surgeon you would sue IMO. But then with my love of Dovers...fritzl you can join in the kicking now..crackup[1].gif
Edited by meister - 3/19/12 at 2:04am
post #10554 of 19808
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr monty View Post

+1 chestnut is fantastic
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Seriously impressive collection....I have number 2 on you screen.
post #10555 of 19808
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post



not enough discussion of these on the board-  bespoke? eh.gif

www.styleforum.net/t/187914/the-ultimate-hardcore-shoe-porn-thread-bespoke-only

a favorite thread as well...

http://www.styleforum.net/t/251332/riccardo-bestetti-bespoke-projects
post #10556 of 19808
Wonder what the Ecton would look like without the split toe?

292
post #10557 of 19808
Quote:
Originally Posted by LynahFaithful View Post

No need to lecture me "son."

i don't think i want to lecture you. as pliny said: show us your shoes, that's all.
post #10558 of 19808
u2el3.jpg
ravello full strap
argyles otc
post #10559 of 19808
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

It all comes down to profit margins, and that in turn governs what the priorities of the operation are. By itself Goodyear construction is so commonplace as to almost be the new standard of quality , especially among those who don't know any better. But unfortunately the switch from handwelted (or some reasonable facsimile) is indicative/symptomatic of a more profound flaw in both vision and the acceptance of responsibility to the customer.
All by way of saying that once Goodyear construction is embraced, other expediencies are inevitable.
I don't know of a single exception in which Goodyear construction has not led to a concomitant decrease in the quality of the insole. Sometimes...at least for a time...the insole remains leather, although not of the same substance or quality needed for hand welted work. But eventually fiberboard or leatherboard insoles are substituted. It's too tempting inb terms of profit especially since the customer doesn't know any better and seemingly doesn't care to know.
And so it goes...all in the name of minimizing the cost of production and maximizing profit.
Eventually, even if a company starts out hand channeling the outsole, somewhere along the line pressure will mount to get rid of the labour costs and the time associated with hand channeling and a faster cheaper solution will be sought.Sometimes those solutions are satisfactory in terms of objective quality...sometimes not so much.
When a shoe is stitched aloft or groove channeled, grit gets to the stitches almost immediately and begins to destroy the integrity of the stitch. Everyone who knows anything about shoes or even simple mechanics understand this is going on. But it's cheaper, it allows the shoes to compete at a more profitable margin and as Isshin mentioned, marketing will take up the slack.
I don't see anything functionally wrong with a tightly closed, machine sewn, vertical channel. I like and admire an angled channel, hand cut or machine cut.
But a horizontal channel, hand cut, or more likely machine cut, is almost as bad as stitching aloft. And IMO, a grooved channel is not much better than stitching aloft.

I appreciate the time you took to address this. Couple of questions: wouldn't a closed-channel welt stitch or whatevs last longer than an open channeled one no matter what angle the channel groove was cut provided they all had oak bark tanned soles? Obv the deeper the angle, the longer the shoe will go before the stitches are exposed. But I like to think of this as a sort of leather Topy peepwall[1].gifsmile.gif

Also, if it costs a bit more to do the closed channel, wouldn't it beg to reason that this is a superior product (all other things being equal)? I know you can buy, say, C&J benchgrades, etc. with an open channel and exposed stitches but how could they upsell the handgrades if not? When I used to sell new cars you were instructed to take the "up" to the lesser model first, then show them the better equipped models. Not the other way around. For, if they couldn't afford the top of the line model, they will always be left thinking they are missing out on something. See my point?

Here are the shoes I currently own which are all made with closed channel stitching:

EG Midford
EG Malvern
EG Inverness
AS Bristol
AS Milton
C&J for PRL Redway
Carmina split-toe derby on the Alcudia
Carmina semi-brogue on the Simpson

I list those because in my 5+ years being a member here I've owned a boatload of other shoes by other makers and these are the ones I've settled on (will probably add 2 more pair to make it 10). I've owned some really well made shoes that feature open channeled soles but they really didn't stack up to the closed channeled soled shoes I've owned.

So, as a shoe maker yourself, what do you prefer? Open or closed?
post #10560 of 19808
Quote:
Originally Posted by NORE View Post

So, as a shoe maker yourself, what do you prefer? Open or closed?

Wait, it isn't obvious by that huge post he made? confused.gif
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