Alfred Sargent Handgrade - Pictures - Page 39

M,

Chances are the pull tabs on your calfskin boots were doubled over and reinforced with a hidden strap of nylon. Don't try folding cordovan....it can be done but it's not often pretty.

Hi DW,

They were just a plain loop of calfskin. The only difference between the two is the stitching's a bit more widely-spaced on the cordovan, which is probably better given the possibility of tearing. Here's a couple pics of both.

M,

Yes,I see that. I would have split and folded the calfskin, as I indicated. Oh well, different strokes, I guess.

I just don't understand why they would stitch straight across...I would have stitched a curved "V", or, more likely, an inverted "V" (what I call a "gothic arch" pattern).

The tab would not rip if done that way.

Exactly.... but as Mum used to say "Old dogs for hard roads and puppies for footpaths".

Very interesting and helpful, DW. As always, I appreciate your wisdom.

Do you think a single layer of shell cordovan sewn in an arch shape would not rip? How were the G&G boots that tore sewn? Doubled loops would definitely be strong. For tall boots, they'd be great. For short boots, I think they'd be more likely to catch on one's pant cuffs. But nylon reinforcement might be a good compromise.

The G&G's were sewn straight across. Cordovan is really not all that strong in terms of tensile strength. But yes, I think the arch shape would have prevented ripping and since the stitch down of the strap is well below the topline on the Alfred Sargent's (I can't remember on the G&G), I don't see why a straight line of stitching was even contemplated. No reason...even aesthetically.

Again, you can't really fold cordovan much less split it. I suppose you could back it with something of a similar colour and sandwich a reinforcing strip in-between--that might be the way I'd do it if I just had to have a straight line of stitching. .

As far as folded straps go...they would be no more likely to catch your pant cuff than an unfolded one...unless the job was done with thick fingers.

wow. these are bangin

I saw this on the front page and instantly missed vox :sad:

^How did they remind you of Vox, B? I posted the shot of the loafer's sole, w/ you in mind. Did you get to the trunk show at Leffot last week?

Looks like my AS Hunt Handgrades are nearing completion......

That is not the final colour, is it?!

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show) That is not the final colour, is it?!



No No they're to be finished yet !! Pics when complete

Fucking Awesome... want so bad.

That was quick!!

The word, "bangin". I had planned on stopping in to see Chay but ultimately wasn't able to make it down there. I'm sure the temptation would have been high as I don't really wear shoes all that often anymore.