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Alfred Sargent Handgrade - Pictures - Page 20

post #286 of 609
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post
what's the take on a fiddleback for a country shoe?

Do you mean a shoe with a fiddleback and a Dainite sole and heel? If so, I'm not sure what the point would be practically, although as a conversation piece it might be fun.
post #287 of 609
Quote:
Originally Posted by Burton View Post
However the suede derby above is not to my mind a "true" country shoe. Though, I am sure, most here would think it not a city shoe either.

But still very nice and something I would definitely wear.

I agree and would add that there are many shoes, this pair being an example, that are neither fish nor fowl but have great utility nonetheless - and look marvelous.
post #288 of 609
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post
what's the take on a fiddleback for a country shoe?

No other words needed. Just
post #289 of 609
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post
can you change the waist on a mto order or not?

ps: it's not an urgent request.

here it is:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slewfoot View Post
The great thing about AS is that they have MTO options across the board similar to EG, but not at that price level. You can MTO any standard shoe of theirs from the Premier or Classic collections you see on their website or Pediwear. They do an upcharge of around 50 GBP to change the color or the last which would make the price somewhere around 275 GBP depending on the model. The Handgrade line is of course significantly more if you're looking for those kind of features.

thank you, david
post #290 of 609
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post
thank you, david

Anytime...
post #291 of 609
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post
what's the take on a fiddleback for a country shoe?

depends on your country enviroment
post #292 of 609
Quote:
Originally Posted by luk-cha View Post
depends on your country enviroment

touché

honestly, it's a gimmick. you like it or not. i don't like it at all. each to his own.
post #293 of 609
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post
touché

honestly, it's a gimmick. you like it or not. i don't like it at all. each to his own.

cant you have sleeker country design on city lasts with fancy details for more city casual use??

as most of us would not be wearing these down the farm, but more likely at days off and weekends

moreover if you look at western/ cowboy boots these deets seem quite normal too

maybe DWF can step in here and add his opinion
post #294 of 609
Quote:
Originally Posted by luk-cha View Post
cant you have sleeker country design on city lasts with fancy details for more city casual use??

sure

i was much more talking about the option to choose. thankfully this is answered now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by luk-cha View Post
maybe DWF can step in here and add his opinion

there is a whole thread dedicated to the topic.
post #295 of 609
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post
sure

i was much more talking about the option to choose. thankfully this is answered now.



there is a whole thread dedicated to the topic.

phew!!! i am glad about that! i was worried for a moment!
post #296 of 609
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post
touché

honestly, it's a gimmick. you like it or not. i don't like it at all. each to his own.

true a gimmick - but an awsm one. like a full or half sock , it only means something to the collector - doesn't have much function, although that's been debated. No one is going to see my fiddleback and appreciate it, but then very few peeps out on the sidewalk or the office care about whether I'm wearing C&J or AS or Bata. My experience is that even shoe repair dudes go huh? when I mention Rendenbach or oak bark soles or any of the brand names discussed here. so it's more about what I think, not what anyone else thinks .. yep = to each his own
post #297 of 609
So I hoofed up to Northampton today and spent 4 hours with Chay and the people of AS. This was my first-ever pilgrimage to the shoemaking capital of England, and my brief stay did not disappoint. I was introduced to Paul and Andrew, the 4th generation Sargents who are very much active in the business. They are both quite personable and were thoroughly welcoming. I saw Paul at on the factory floor at various points during my tour, and he appears very much the hands-on managing director, examining works-in-progress and interacting with team members. Andrew does a fair bit of travel to meet customers, and from his colorful stories over coffee about shoemaking history and trivia I came away with the impression of him as an effective "frontman" for the firm. Now, like many on SF, I am drawn to high quality shoes despite a somewhat limited understanding of the construction process. So what struck me most about my time here was the patience and enthusiasm with which Chay walked me through the making of a shoe, from design and hide quality control all the way through sole painting and upper burnishing. At virtually every step, a team member would explain the intricacies of their particular tasks - what they look out for, what they avoid - and complete those tasks from start to finish as a visual example. The manual dexterity of some of these individuals was really quite impressive. I didn't quite expect such a sensory experience, from the aroma of leather and sanded oak bark to the sounds of operated machinery, much of which appears to have been manufactured 50-100 years ago. What was constant (and unexpected, to be honest) was how genuinely welcoming each of those team members was to an uninitiated outsider such as myself. They clearly have a passion for their work, and this passion was quite palpable during my time in the factory. Chay himself is in his 20th year at AS and has intimate knowledge of virtually every facet of the factory operation and shoe business overall. I suspect that his true passion is on the creative side, as he tinkers with new designs and grows animated as he discusses new ideas and possibilities for the handgrade line. We completed my foot tracing with multiple measurements, and I was surprised to learn that my feet are not too dissimilar from one another (these being the only feet I have, I've always felt my left to be noticeably larger than the right). Chay decided to do up some trial shoes to ensure we nail down fit. I also saw a few new models, my favorite of which was a lovely austerity brogue and a sleek single monk. Enjoy these pics - I took loads more, but many were too large to upload. I thoroughly recommend a factory visit as a worthwhile excursion from London.
post #298 of 609
^Thanks a lot, E. I'm jealous!
post #299 of 609
Awesome stuff! So glad the trip worked out for you! Which last did you end up going with for the first try and did you decide on a model?
post #300 of 609
^^Great info and pics! Did you snag a couple of the Leffot inserts to sell here?
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