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Alfred Sargent Handgrade - Pictures - Page 12

post #166 of 598
12/27/10 at 4:50pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Burton View Post
You are correct, Clint. Happy Holidays to you as well. I hope to post up my new shoes soon.

Look forward to seeing your new shoes. In fact, I believe that Groover suggested more and when I get some more funds together, I've got a few in my mind's eye.

Haters gonna hate.

all the best,

Clint
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post #167 of 598
12/28/10 at 1:30am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post
Well here they are - I went for the AS 48, added a medallion, and went for a red-brown colour. I couldn't be more impressed - so cheers for the inspiration.



They're in a better class than any other shoes Ive handled - e.g. C&J, Vass, EG RTW. I'm not knowledgeable on construction but the look and feel of these shoes has to be experienced first hand. The leather is flawless, thick and supple; the colouring is rich and lustrous and brings out the grain and texture. The stitching is perfectly aligned and robust. The last and general shape is sleek without being delicate, a perfect balance front and back, and I especially like the low cut quarter. (the shoes also fit v well); and the soles are beautifully beveled and waisted and cut very close to the upper, making the shoes much sleeker than any other double-soled double monk I've seen.


And Chay Cooper is a real gent.

these are quite nice thro pity about the seam in the back the make a great shoe rather plain
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post #168 of 598
12/28/10 at 4:55am
Quote:
Originally Posted by luk-cha View Post
these are quite nice thro pity about the seam in the back the make a great shoe rather plain

it's a personal preference due these are MTO.

it's compareable to your seamless love.
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post #169 of 598
12/28/10 at 4:56am
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post
it's a personal preference due these are MTO.

it's compareable to your seamless love.

Yeah, +1... I don't really get the fascination with a seamless back. Strange to say that a seam makes a great shoe plain. Who sees a seam? Who cares about it? Let's be real.
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post #170 of 598
12/28/10 at 5:11am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Moo View Post
Yeah, +1... I don't really get the fascination with a seamless back. Strange to say that a seam makes a great shoe plain. Who sees a seam? Who cares about it? Let's be real.

He is obsessed with seamless shoes.
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post #171 of 598
12/28/10 at 5:50am
Quote:
Originally Posted by cdmoore1855 View Post
He is obsessed with seamless shoes.

we know that or should i say? we learned it the hard way...
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post #172 of 598
12/28/10 at 6:18am
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post
it's a personal preference due these are MTO.

it's compareable to your seamless love.

i somehow think he would not have a choice on HOW these were cut, but are these just sorta like the Vale from JLP, i guess adding the seam would make it less likely to be a dirrect copy od interlectual rights etc

Quote:
Originally Posted by cdmoore1855 View Post
He is obsessed with seamless shoes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post
we know that or should i say? we learned it the hard way...

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post #173 of 598
12/28/10 at 6:28am
Quote:
Originally Posted by luk-cha View Post
i somehow think he would not have a choice on HOW these were cut, but are these just sorta like the Vale from JLP, i guess adding the seam would make it less likely to be a dirrect copy od interlectual rights etc...
i dunno either, though he doesn't care for construction options. in fact it's a very traditional british way to do it. for being a good sports on the seamless analogy.
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post #174 of 598
12/28/10 at 8:19am
Quote:
Originally Posted by luk-cha View Post
these are quite nice thro pity about the seam in the back the make a great shoe rather plain
thank you. re: seam - I will just have to live with the plainness (note to self: stop walking backwards)
Quote:
i guess adding the seam would make it less likely to be a dirrect copy od interlectual rights etc
.. if they called it 'Vale' or 'Chapel' maybe, but even then I doubt it. There are no IP rights on swept monks - double or single, with or without seams - and a tragedy for us all if there were. It'd kill bespoke and MTO for a start! As Fritzl suggests, it's prob an English thing. Waste not want not.
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post #175 of 598
12/28/10 at 11:10am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post
thank you. re: seam - I will just have to live with the plainness (note to self: stop walking backwards)


.. if they called it 'Vale' or 'Chapel' maybe, but even then I doubt it. There are no IP rights on swept monks - double or single, with or without seams - and a tragedy for us all if there were. It'd kill bespoke and MTO for a start! As Fritzl suggests, it's prob an English thing. Waste not want not.

lol, i guess i think it is these small details that make the difference esp when there is a premium paid

but enjoy the shoes they are nice
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post #176 of 598
12/28/10 at 12:12pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by luk-cha View Post
lol, i guess i think it is these small details that make the difference esp when there is a premium paid

but enjoy the shoes they are nice

In the ranges in which AS competes this is the standard method of construction. EG & GG and the others use this similar method. I think these things are important to make sure we don't compare apples and oranges.
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post #177 of 598
12/29/10 at 2:27am
Quote:
Originally Posted by luk-cha View Post
these are quite nice thro pity about the seam in the back the make a great shoe rather plain

Vass Monk back seam left, AS monk right:



These back-seamed monks and a London 5 eyelet are the only Vass I have with this feature.
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post #178 of 598
12/29/10 at 5:03am
Quote:
These back-seamed monks and a London 5 eyelet are the only Vass I have with this feature.
Luk I've looked at both the Vass and the AS monks more closely, and it appears to be in the nature of monks (the way the strap has to come over the upper) that the uppers must be made of at least 2 pieces of leather. And therefore at least 2 seams. Vass chooses to use 3 pieces - yes 3 - for the single monk upper, and places 3 seams - one at heel pictured, and one on each side. AS manages to make the upper with only 2 pieces of leather, and therefore 2 seams. Where they are joined is a question of aesthetics. In order to ensure the long unbroken line from toe to heel on the outer side of each shoe AS has place the joins at the heel and at the instep. (below) IMO this is a more elegant and leaner solution than Vass's 3 seams - much as I love the Vass.
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post #179 of 598
12/29/10 at 5:18am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post
Vass chooses to use 3 pieces - yes 3 - for the single monk upper, and places 3 seams - one at heel pictured, and one on each side.
AS manages to make the upper with only 2 pieces of leather, and therefore 2 seams.
IMO this is a more elegant and leaner solution than Vass's 3 seams - much as I love the Vass.

i'm not sure, i can follow your description.
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post #180 of 598
12/29/10 at 5:53am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post
Vass chooses to use 3 pieces - yes 3 - for the single monk upper, and places 3 seams - one at heel pictured, and one on each side.
AS manages to make the upper with only 2 pieces of leather, and therefore 2 seams.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post
i'm not sure, i can follow your description.

Vass uses a vamp and two quarters (inside and outside sections have their own quarter) = 3 pieces.

AS does not use a separate quarter for the outside section. The outside goes through from toe to heel = 2 pieces.
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