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PLEASE Help! Fashion crisis for a tall slim guy! - Page 2

post #16 of 27
gap.com and bananarepublic.com offer lots of shirts in medium-tall. At both brands, some of the different fits of shirts, both in button-ups and and t-shirts and such, are slimmer and some are baggier. My advice would be to order several styles from each (enough to get over the $100 or so minimum for free shipping) and then return the ones that you don't like to the nearest Gap or BR store.
post #17 of 27
give Jantzen a try. For the ~$40 outlay you cant really go wrong. Post here with any queries about how to measure yourself/your shirts and then order one and post pics here for feedback. 2-3 shirts in you should be pretty well set....
post #18 of 27
What size is your neck? They are most likely no shirts that will fit you OTR. I am 6'1" 160 lbs and with a 16-16.5" neck, there really are no shirts that will fit me OTR (I am hoping someone will prove me wrong), it is kind of depressing.

I would first start by finding out your true measurements - this will help you shop online and determine if there actually are any offerings out there that will fit you. My problem is that once I get up too high in the neck size, the chest/shoulders get too big. If you start buying higher quality shirts, the sleeve size won't be a problem since they normally are all in the 35-36" range.

Chest/shoulders/waist is always a problem though. A tailor can fix the waist and slim the arms, but it is a pain in the ass. Chest really can't be changed, which sucks if you have a shirt that fits everywhere else. If you want to go OTR, you will most likely end up with a shirt that fits reasonably well in the waist (after alterations), toss up on the collar, baggy arms, and when you lift your arms you will see a bunch of fabric connecting the armhole to the body of the shirt.

Go MTM.
post #19 of 27
On another note, this Target program sounds interesting - has anyone actually ordered from them before? I wonder if there is a way to "crack the code" and make the right choices so that in essence I will be specifying my exact measurements. I wonder if they are returnable as well.
post #20 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by raley
Chest/shoulders/waist is always a problem though. A tailor can fix the waist and slim the arms, but it is a pain in the ass. Chest really can't be changed, which sucks if you have a shirt that fits everywhere else. If you want to go OTR, you will most likely end up with a shirt that fits reasonably well in the waist (after alterations), toss up on the collar, baggy arms, and when you lift your arms you will see a bunch of fabric connecting the armhole to the body of the shirt.

I don't understand why this should be the case. Why not buy a collar that fits to start with? And slimming the arms is done easily, as long as the sides are being taken in. I often have Brooks' traditional fit (i.e., enormously tent-like) shirts taken in dramatically and have had no problems.
post #21 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by DocHolliday
I don't understand why this should be the case. Why not buy a collar that fits to start with? And slimming the arms is done easily, as long as the sides are being taken in. I often have Brooks' traditional fit (i.e., enormously tent-like) shirts taken in dramatically and have had no problems.
sidebar doc - how much does the tailor charge you for the alteration?
post #22 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by DocHolliday
I don't understand why this should be the case. Why not buy a collar that fits to start with? And slimming the arms is done easily, as long as the sides are being taken in. I often have Brooks' traditional fit (i.e., enormously tent-like) shirts taken in dramatically and have had no problems.

Don't shoulders and chest size scale with neck size? I admit that slimming down arms is easy (although my tailor can't seem to understand what slim means, so maybe that is my bias, and maybe I need a new tailor), but you can't exactly alter shoulders and chest. If my chest size is 42" (for a shirt, 38" with measuring tape), and a 16.5" shirt gets me a 50" chest, and my shoulders are 18" and the 16.5" shirt gets me 21" inch shoulders, don't you think the shirt would like a bit ridiculous with a fitted waist, slim sleeves, and huge armholes/shoulders?
post #23 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by raley
Don't shoulders and chest size scale with neck size? I admit that slimming down arms is easy (although my tailor can't seem to understand what slim means, so maybe that is my bias, and maybe I need a new tailor), but you can't exactly alter shoulders and chest. If my chest size is 42" (for a shirt, 38" with measuring tape), and a 16.5" shirt gets me a 50" chest, and my shoulders are 18" and the 16.5" shirt gets me 21" inch shoulders, don't you think the shirt would like a bit ridiculous with a fitted waist, slim sleeves, and huge armholes/shoulders?

The armholes can be reduced along with the chest and sleeves. When the tailor reduces the width of the shirt, he can then create a new bottom to the armhole. This reduces the sleeve, armhole and width all in one fell swoop.

As long as the shoulders and collar fit properly, the shirt should be fine.
post #24 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by m@T
sidebar doc - how much does the tailor charge you for the alteration?

Mine charges $15 or so.
post #25 of 27
To continue my string of posts, I'll now employ a crude graphic device in hopes of making things more clear.

Let's say this is the shirt you're staring with. (Pretend it's a button-up; this happened to be the first simple line drawing I came across.) The shirt is great in that it fits well in the collar and shoulders, but it's much too large in the arms and torso:



Here's how the tailor raises the armholes and trims the fit:



Leaving you with this:



It's an easy alteration. The important thing, as I mentioned earlier, is that the shirt fits well at the collar and shoulders to start with. I've had little trouble with this; shoulder size increases with overall size, yes, but not as dramatically as you might imagine. The shoulder seam might not sit exactly perfectly at the corner of the shoulder, but it won't be that far off, usually. Just something to look for when buying a shirt.
post #26 of 27
Hmm, this is interesting. I think I might need to try to find a new tailor because my current one doesn't really communicate with me that well, and hasn't been able to do anything as dramatic as this.

Is it important to just do this with lower-quality shirts, such as Brooks Brothers? One thing that concerns me is that if there is something like pattern matching or small amounts of handwork on a shirt, it may not be able to replicated. What do you think about this?
post #27 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by raley
Hmm, this is interesting. I think I might need to try to find a new tailor because my current one doesn't really communicate with me that well, and hasn't been able to do anything as dramatic as this.

Is it important to just do this with lower-quality shirts, such as Brooks Brothers? One thing that concerns me is that if there is something like pattern matching or small amounts of handwork on a shirt, it may not be able to replicated. What do you think about this?

Much will depend on the skills of your tailor, and what you value most highly. I wouldn't buy or wear an oversized shirt that I felt I couldn't have tailored. Beautiful pattern matching does me no good if my shirt fits poorly.

You're right in that it's important to have a good tailor to do these things. Even on something as simple as a solid-color shirt, a poor choice in thread can create a conspicuous contrast between the original seams and the new ones.
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