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Holland & Sherry - Page 3

post #31 of 41

Bespoke is the Greatest!
post #32 of 41
The Harrisons book is a mix of woollen and worsted flannel. The plaid you are considering is worsted. I have the plaid with red overplaid in DB. #39025.
I also have the plaid/blue overplaid in a 3btn, SB. They hold up reasonably well, but they are flannels and softer wearing than hard goods. I also have the plaid with blue overplaid 2btn, SB. What can I say, I like the look.

Trifecta in plaid.
post #33 of 41
Originally Posted by bry2000
Thank you, Despos. Excellent post. I was looking at a lenght of the POW with blue over check from the Harrisons flannel book the other day. It is an impressive cloth. I would love to use it some day, but I am leery of the performance of woolen flannel; ie, how much they bag and lose shape, etc.
Hi Bry,

That Harrison's POW flannel #39024 is quite nice. If you would prefer something similiar look at the Oyster #76068. It is a worsted with a semi milled finish, same colour scheme in almost the same scale.
post #34 of 41
Forgot to add... that for something a bit more beefy, but with an incredible hand and drape, look at the P&B Classics 7224.
post #35 of 41
Chris, Bry2000's previous post raises a question for me: What are the differences between woolen flannels and worsted flannels with respect to appearance (woolen flannel nappier than worsted?), wear, ability to hold a crease, warmth, etc.? The Holland & Sherry Viceroy flannels are all worsted flannels, as far as I know--as are the Lesser Lumb's Golden Bale. Are there serious differences between the two kinds of flannel that should enter into our decision as to what to use for a given garment?
post #36 of 41
Thanks Chris, I may well go for the Victory. The Harrisons 15 oz are the nicest heavyweight flannels I've seen. I want something made for the dead of winter with it. This is one of the best threads we've had for a while.
post #37 of 41
Originally Posted by Roger
The Holland & Sherry Viceroy flannels are all worsted flannels, as far as I know
Definitely not. The first several swatches in that book are woolens: various solids, stripes, windowpanes and plaids. I can't recall off the top of my head how many woolens there are, but quite a few. The designs are more classic and traditional than the designs in the Victory book.

What are the differences between woolen flannels and worsted flannels with respect to appearance (woolen flannel nappier than worsted?), wear, ability to hold a crease, warmth, etc.?
The basic difference is the type of yarn used. Woolen flannels are made with woolen yarns, worsteds with worsted yarns. The difference in the yarns boils down to the process used (or skipped) in preparing the yarns for spinning. Essentiallly, to make worsted yarns, the fibers are carded and combed out straight and flat prior to spinning. The resulting yarn is more taut and smooth and fine, and stronger. With flannels, combing (and sometimes carding) are skipped. The resulting yarns are thicker, spongier, fuzzier, and somewhat weaker and softer.

Woolen flannel will be typically thicker at the same weight, softer, spongier, and fuzzier. It will have a more "mottled" appearance. It won't hold a crease as well or perform as well, except maybe at the very heaviest weights. The 16 ounce cloths in the Minnis book are iron, for instance. Worsted flannel performs a little better, and looks a little more crisp. But it looks less like "flannel." You can typically see the underlying weave pattern more clearly. With a woolen, it almost takes a microscope. Even up close the cloth just looks like a wooly mass.

Over time, woolen flannel will bag and stretch at various stress points, for instance, the knees. It will get threadbare in the knees and seat (this is why tailors recommend two pairs of trousers with flannel suits). It will never hold a crease as well as a worsted.
post #38 of 41
Manton, thanks so much. Of course you are right about the Viceroy book. I had received some swatches from H&S, and they were mostly from the 752000-752015 range in that book, which are worsted flannels and the ones I was most interested in. But, looking back at the swatches, I did get a couple that are labeled simply "wool," which are the woolen flannel.

Your explanation of the differences is immensely helpful at the moment as I am planning several pairs of odd trousers to go with a particular tweed jacket (and for more general wear too, so I'm not completely violating a certain precept I happened to read recently in this regard!) and had been considering flannels for that reason. I have narrowed my choice down to these H&S worsted flannels--which I just like better esthetically than their woolen counterparts, and which, I think, will be sufficiently flannelly to work with the tweed jacket--the H. Lesser Lumb's Golden Bale flannels, and some Super 120s Scabal worsted flannels I can get for almost the same price (just slightly more) that I will be looking at today. To my inexperienced eye, there seems to be little difference in the quality of the H&S and Lesser fabrics, and, thus, I think it will come down in the end to the particular color shades available in the various series.

Vancouver can be a somewhat damp place in the winter months, and this has, I think, pushed me a little more towards the worsted flannels. A local tailor I talked to recently told me that he seldom makes anything over about 11 oz. for local clients--as it never gets really cold here (average daytime highs probably in the low to mid 40s in January)--and it sounds as if the woolen flannels might not work so well in the 10-11 oz. range.
post #39 of 41
Any comments on Wain Shiell flannels? I seem to remember some from last winter. They were labeled as 3-ply or something.
post #40 of 41
Hi -

How would you actually order ? Contact HS directly or they have retail locations in the states? Do they have showrooms in states or its best for them to mail me sample fabrics directly.

post #41 of 41
http://www.hollandandsherry.com/beazleys/ They will mail swatches, and the actual cloth is sent promptly and delivered very quickly.
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